Got my Wideband LC-1 with XD-1 gauge all finished today but I have a few questions.

I hooked it up to a computer and logged for a few minutes of driving. My a/f when Im just cruizing is 14.5-15.0 and if I gun it it actually goes up to like 16 or 17.... Im not to sure if the guage is messed up or not at this point. I havent really gone over 3500 after seeing what a/f I was at....Also after I let up off the gas the gauge goes wacko all the way up to 86 then goes to a "o 2" reading then back to normal. ??? Im really kinda ticked off cause all that work putting this thing in and the readings all over the place.

I may have to put my FMU back in the car if im truly that lean. I really cant see how Im that lean. My setup is, 370cc, Z32 MAF, A32 ECU, AEM FPR, 3.125 pulley on a v2. I havent really givin the car all that much gas because of the readings Im currenlty getting. Not to sure what to do now

I know I'm shooting for 11.5-12 all the way to readline, but Im way off...

-matt

 

Hmmm....When you say you "guned it" does that mean WOT for a second or just getting into the throttle a bit. Not going past 3.5K rpm's wont' tell you much. I would try and get into it a bit more and see what happens.

But to begin with I don't think you can get enough fuel with just the 370's and Z32 MAF. If you never posted the WB info I would say you would need and SAFC or an FMU anyhow. Why did you think 370's with a Z32 MAF would be enough. How low do you have base fuel pressure turned down?

 

how long did you stay on it when it went lean was it lean for just a split second and then you let off or was it lean for like a few seconds

if it was lean for a slpit second and then you let off it, it might have just been a lean spike and it could have leveled out but if you stayed on it for a few seconds then you need to add feul

and its normal for it to go alittle crazy when you let off the gas

 

ok will do..Ill play around with it after work a bit...I dont think Ill be able to make it to redline because Ill have to shut it down cause it may be too too lean....when I was logging before, I was in 3rd around 40 and went WOT and it slowly crept up to around 16-17..then I pulled in my driveway...kinda scary to see it on paper..lol

-matt

 

I have my Base FP set at about 34. I just took out my JWT and sent it out before I hooked up my WB. Ill probably hook up my Cartech tomorrow and mess around with it.

What should a/f be if your just cruzing say at 50 in 4th or 5th ?
It started creeping up so I let off immediatly..This is all new to me guys so be easy

-matt

 

Just cruising AF could be from 14-17....it will kinda jump around from stoich to lean to stoich. Giving just a little throttle it will go kinda lean. Running lean when just giving slight throttle is not dangerous

 

I dont think matty will take it to redline He's so protective of the car, he won't take the slightest chance...whoever is the next owner will b very happy wit the car. MATTY WHERE ARE THE PICS! I want to see your pod

 

It didnt come out as good as I thought it would but it does look good..Ill take some shots tomorrow and post em up

I'm going to mess around with it alitte after work, then report back. So if i start out at 65 in 3rd gear, when I shouldl totally shut it down, if I see the a/f not really coming down where its suppose to be ??

most likely be putting back in my FMU tomorrow

-matt

 

i think for your setup to work properly with the stock ecu you need 550s

 

I have not known anyone to run 370's and a Z32 MAF and not also need an FMU or SAFC. I believe 370's and A32 MAF cand do it up to a certain point but not with a Z32 MAF. Now 500-550cc injectors and a Z32 MAF will work.

 

Man I missed the A32 ECU part...got all excited about the LC1 and missed that.

Matty what the *** are you doing. Listen to Mike...

 

It sounds like it is reading correctly if you are seeing 15ish cruising (which is good...)
BUT, did you ensure free-air calibration is correct? (You can let it sit overnight and check the next day before starting the car...) Also, where is your sensor placed? If there are any exhaust leaks or ways for air to get in, it can obviously make it read lean.

Sounds like it is operating correctly and you are just really lean.... FMU is an easy fix, but SAFC or emanage etc would be a better route to get it dialed in better. 15-16 AF is definitely dangerous and you are wise for letting out of it! Was it breaking up? A split second of lean during the transition from cruising->WOT can be normal, but it should then jump down to 11-12.

 

Lets keep in mind here that my final goal is to get the Emanage Ultimate, and If they cant figure out the crank signal, then the Blue...or something familiar...
That was the point of selling the JWT !!! I knew I would need something other then NOTHING...
Ive been really carefully after I took out the JWT (Only really been a week) and I really havent seen boost since my JWT.. Once I got the LC-1 in I would either put in back in my Cartech or be ok without it. Now I know that I need it back in. Remember my final goal is Emanage.

One question is, Do I need the FMU once Emange is installed ?? and do I need 550's ??

-matt

Anther add on question...Im getting alot of surge from my blower off boost because my BOV is closed completly. If I even open it a crack to let more air out after boost, I get a really bad up and down idle from the car. What could cause this ? Its not like the BOV is after the BOV, which would then make sence. It is before the MAF, and therefore venting Non-metered air. What would cause the Really Looppy idle and almost stalling, when I loosen up the BOV a-little ??

 

You should be able to just add the FMU to the 370's. I am not sure what type of power your making but just keep an eye on fuel pressure.

 

What should it be base and what should it be during boost ?..11-12 psi s/c

-matt

 

matty -

I have the exact same setup as you in many ways - but have the JWT ECU installed at the moment. (As you know I have Z32 MAF, 370's, etc). I don't beleive with your current setup that the 370's are maxed out. I'm sure it's that stock ECU causing your problems. We probalby make very similar or the same power. (I fugure I'm about 360whp right now after fixing my MAF problems earlier this year).

Example:
My LM-1 reads 14.5-15.1 fluctuating at idle, 14.5-14.9 cruising, and at WOT 11.5 - 12.5 all the way to redline.

The fluctuating you get at idle with the BOV open is basically compressor surge I think. The BOV seems to not let ALL the air out at idle and some surges past the BOV in a fluctuating motion causing the surge in idle.

I've noticed he same thing with my Blitz BOV at idle. It's really not a major problem however - car doesn't stall or fluctuate more than 50RPM at any time.

With my HKS SSQ (doesn't let out anything at idle) - it's far less pronounced - but I get nasty surge when cruising on the freeway - so I took it off and put the Blitz back on. Better to have surging idle than worse surge on the blower at 3000RPM crusiing.

I dunno - I guess I'm used to it.

 

keep stock FP (34psi) if you can. the only reason your gonna want it any lower would be if you have flooding problems at start up since you don't have anythinga actually controlling the injectors. The only concern with the fuel pressure is that you don't let it get too high. My point was that adding the FMU should solve your problem, but depending on how much power your making you might have to run too much fuel pressure to bring you AFR's down. This I don't know because I don't know what type of power your making. I would not let fuel pressure go over 100psi max under peak boost.

 

Since he is using the z32 maf, the rising rate should be lower.

I have not dialed in my SFMU, but it should not be higher than 48 psi fuel pressure at 10 psi of boost using:

1/2(static)*rising rate ratio*boost pressure

 

Yea im not going to let it go above say 60psi. That I think will be flowing enough fuel to do some logging on the WB and see where im at. Now if I can just get a warm day, I can put this in

-matt

 

Can you LC-1 guys post some pics/logs?

I'm about to order one off eBay...

 

Matty, I didn't read every post in this thread, so maybe it has already been pointed out, but if you are using the A32 ecu then you definitely need to bump up your fuel pressure when boosting.

Out of curiosity a couple of months ago I did the same thing as you (370's, Z32 maf and A32 ecu, no fmu) and got the same results, along with some detonation at high rpm as well.

 

Yea. So what fuel pressure should I look for up top ?? I havent really taken the car into boost range so I wont detonate. Ive been drivin the car for about a week, really low rpms. Havent gone above 3K. Havent found any time to put my cartech in...

-matt

 

I'm not really sure. I would try 60-70 psi to start with and go from there after checking afr at about 5000 rpm. You will want to be pretty rich because the A32 ecu may give you a bit too much timing advance at high rpm.

 

3rd gear is the best to test AFR correct ??

I called up cartech and they said the best way to tune with a cartech is take off the Vaccum source at idle and turn in the screw till I see about 48 psi of fp. Thats what it will hit as it passes through 0 psi and will rise correctly.


-matt

 

Trying to steal my thunder huh?

 

Sorry, Mike. Just look at it as confirming what you said.

 

Here are some pics. I still need to get it fitted better in the pod..Trying to figure out how to do it. any ideas would be great




This is where I messed up. I orginally had the guage sittin on the edge but the steering wheel wasnt able to turn without hitting the gauge so I dremeld the side a bit and sunk the gauge in. well on the egde I went a ltitle bit too much. how do people flush mount gauges ??





-matt

 

Off hand ghettofabulous I would say a little bondo body filler, sand slightly. If you want to be hard core, resand the whole thing, body fill the gaps and retexture/paint.

 

Any body guys have any ideas on how to fix this gauge to look perfect ??

-matt

 

Matt, i know this doesn't apply to you, but do you or anyone here know if the pre-cat that doesn't get remove after a y-pipe install on Cal spec and 2002+ Maxs would affect a wide bands reading. i know there suppose to be installed before any cats. just wondering.