I just diagnosed my minor vibration in the steering wheel to a bad ball joint. I am going to be replacing it tomarrow and in the FSM I see that they move the axle and strut assembly out of the way. Is this the best was to do this? Should I just drop the control arm and press it in outside the car?

And yes, I know that swapping all the bushings is a good thing to do but I am keeping the work minor until we get to the warmer months. Thanks for any help guys.

 

I don't think you'll be able to do it on the car (unless you have a portable lift?)...

It's easiest to drop the LCA, press the old one out, new one in and put things back together.

 

buy a whole new control arm from ebay.......and u can do them without a portable lift....a ball joint press....my buddy has one...still pain in the ***

 

buy a whole new control arm from ebay.......and u can do them without a portable lift....a ball joint press....my buddy has one...still pain in the ***

 

dont press it out on the car.. get a hole new control arm...

 

dont press it out on the car.. get a hole new control arm...

 

Can you not rent the tool to remove and press in a new ball joint from Autozone? I was under the impression you could.

I want to keep the cost minimal, thus I am replacing only the ball-joint.

 

Can you not rent the tool to remove and press in a new ball joint from Autozone? I was under the impression you could.

I want to keep the cost minimal, thus I am replacing only the ball-joint.

 

there is a special tool where you can press the ball joint out while the control arm is on the car but it is expensive and i dont know if you can rent it or not.

 

My brother and I tried pressing out the ball joint once and failed. It's a b*tch to do. It was only around $100 for mastercare to do it. Save yourself the headache and time.

 

I think the tool needed to press in and out, only most shops would have.

Maybe check with some local shops and see how much they'd charge to press in a new ball joint. If you total cost of the whole work should exceed $70, it would be better to get a new control arm that would already have a new ball joint on it.

I have a driver side in my room waiting to go on, and maan. . . I tell you that ball joint is stiff! Should restore a smooth ride. Replacing the bushings (swaybar end link etc) should reduce vibrations and restore a smooth ride .


edit: a 22mm socket socket + 3' break bar +wd-40 made taking off the control arm very easy.

 

Replacing the entire LCA/balljoint for 70 bucks yourself >
Paying 100 bucks to have someone replace just the ball-joint

 

I don't get what the big deal is. I changed the RF lower on my '98 a couple months ago. I have a BJ press, but most auto stores will loan them for free. It took less than an hour to change it on the car. I recall it being a bit of a challenge to get the nut off, but nothing terrible. It was like $35 for the joint.

 

I think the point most are trying to make is that most 4th Gens could probably benefit from new LCA bushings as well. Given the hassle of replacing both the ball-joint and bushings on the existing LCA, it seems to make sense to just replace the entire LCA.

Given that it's much easier to just replace the entire LCA than the ball-joint and bushings seperately and that there is no significant cost difference (of entire LCA, vs. ball joint + bushings replacement, it seems to make more sense to replace the LCA.

 

I am in the process of dropping the control arm and I need to get the threaded portion of the ball joint out of the steering knuckle.

I saw that a pickle fork is used, I am without a car for now so is that tool essential or can I get it out of the knuckle with something else.

 

Just hit the knuckle near the ball joint threaded bolt a few times - it should pop out. If you don't plan on reusing the LCA or ball joint, you can just give the threaded bolts a few whacks from the top - I would also recommend soaking it with PB blaster for a few mins first.

This just came up recently - I think MDeezy had a heck of a time breaking his free.

A pickle fork won't work (well, it most likely won't work, not enough leverage and you'll tear up the ball joint boot for sure).

 

Yes, I've done exactly this and it worked. However, I did it with the arm off the car. But I think you'll still need to pull the axle and swing the knuckle fully out of the way. Then you may have enough room to use the press. But I did the press stuff with the arm and clamp laying on the floor, and I'm not sure I would want to try that suspended in the air. If you remove the arm from the car you should plan on getting an alignment.

Dave

 

oh oh... not this again

(I agree, btw, just waiting for the regular yes/no/yes/no discussion that will ensue).

 

Ok I dropped the control arm awhile ago but I cannot figure out which tool (Advance Loaner kit) and how to use it to pull the ball joint.

BTW I did this with the strut/axle still attatched and YES I will be getting an alignment, I have a lifetime so that's a no brainer.

Any tips on how to use the puller to get this ball joint out? I am going to try and work on it some tomarrow morning before I take it somewhere to get it pulled/new one pressed in.

Thanks.

 

I used this tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

1) Remove the snap ring
2) Use the sleeves and plates to push out the ball joint. You need a big sleeve on the receiver side, and a smaller sleeve on the pushing side. A plate fits between the sleeve and the clamp on each end.

Dave

 

Fr33way, how did you know you ball joint was bad? I replaced my bearing yesterday and I had trouble tightening the ball join back down. The stud inside the ball joint would just spin. I eventually got it back on with an impact gun. The guy at Advance told me it is bad but i'm not sure if he really knows what he is talking about.

 

I'm not even gonna start on this one.

 

It took many trips to autozone to get my ball joint separated. Many hits with a hammer (not rubber mallett) wouldnt get it free. I use a gear pulley (took 3 trips to get the right size one) and still I ended up just damaging the stud. A lot of WD-40 and caveman like hits with the hammer got my ball joint free. THe casualties of that were my ball joint completely destroyed wasnt changing my Control arm at the time), and the stud got mushed down so the bolt wouldnt go back on.

Pickle fork was of zero help except destroying my ball joint bushing.

 

Alright guys I've got the summary.

dropped the control arm using the pickle fork method
took to a local machine shop, had them pull/press the new one in ($10)
installed earlier today and all is well, hope to get aligned early next week
Total Cost: a hair (with tax) over $40

 

I knew because I had a slight vibration at speeds over 50mph, I then lifed the car and did the Hayes manual diag. (grabbing tire and wiggling).

When I knew the right wheel I then just looked at all the bushings and stuff while I did the wiggle from the inside and there was obvious play in the joint.

 

Glad you got it done.

 

Great Job. and you cant beat $10 to press in a new ball joint