Pulled the 302 code and have looked in Haynes for the location of this part. I have a 96 GXE and the book states it is bolted to the rear of the cylinder head at the transaxle end but for the life of me I cannot see it. Is it under the air intake duct? If it is, is it necessary to remove prior to doing the checks to see what is actually wrong? Looking at the pics in the manual it looks like it should be easy to access.

For those who have had this code and done the work yourself, what have you found to be the most common problem? Stuck valve? leaky/cracked hoses? Temp Sensor? Solenoid?

 

I just had this same problem. I just had to clean mine out. Yes you do have to pull the intake duct, all of it up to the TB. Then you should see everything. There are two valves. The EGR should be the one on the right(towards back of car). I think the other one is a check valve? Remove the EGR assembly and all piping. Make sure you get the piece that bolts on to the right(towards back of car) side of the motor. It has the temp sensor in it. Take the sensor out of the piping, get some carb cleaner and plug the holes with a rag of something and fill it up and let it soak. Spray the inside of the EGR diaphram and get any carbon out of there.

It really helps if you have a air compressor to blow out the piping after its soaked for a while. Also use a coat hanger to fish around inside and break up any carbon block-ups.

The nasty part is were the piping with the temp sensor bolts into the back of the engine. You need to get some small vacuum hose, fit it over the stray for the card cleaner and bend it around to spray in that whole. Then using and kind of small screwdriver or hooked piece of metal or whatever you have scrape around inside that hole. You probably will have to stick your finger in there to get most of it out as it can be a little stubborn. You'll be amazed how nasty it gets in that little hole. You can see the in the hole so just feel around in there and get as much as you can. If you have a small mirror, especially a telescoping one use that to get a look inside.

It took me about 2-3 hours to do everything, and that includes making a run to the auto parts. Of course I did have the help of my ASE certified dad, so that made it alot easier. My terms may not be 100% correct. But if you have any questions let me know and I can ask my dad for technical terms. Either post back or message me or something. Hope this helps.

 

aaron-san basically covered it.

Most likely it's just clogged passages as opposed to a faulty component.

The job is in fact easier if you just remove the plenum (upper intake manifold) - that way you can clean out the EGR port properly.

 

Appreciate the response. Knew it had to be there somewhere. Definitely want to get this fixed. I have the same issue on my 99 SE-L although I have continued to drive it since the light came on. This raises another question. Can continuing to drive the car with a clogged EGR cause additional problems and if so what?

You mentioned that you sprayed the inside of the EGR where I assume the diaphragm is located. Haynes states to avoid as this could damage. Is this a real concern?

Last, my 99 seems to have a foul exhaust smell and idles at cold startup around 12-15K. It settles down when warm just want to know if this could be related at all to the EGR being bad? My 96 has started to have the same exhaust smell as the 99 but does not have the idle issue.

Appreciate your notes. Will have to try and work on next weekend as it's impossible to get anything done during the week

 

1. Clogged EGR causes higher NOx emissions - so depending on how your state tests emissions (if at all) you may not pass.

2. The high idle at cold startup is normal. The idle should start high (you mean 1.2 to 1.5k) and drop down to the 600-700 (or so) range when fully warmed up. This is normal behavior.

3. Bad smell from the exhaust (if it's persistent) is signs of a failing catalytic converter.

 

"You mentioned that you sprayed the inside of the EGR where I assume the diaphragm is located. Haynes states to avoid as this could damage. Is this a real concern?"

I wouldn't spray where the vacuum line hooks up, but the mechanical side of it should be perfectly fine.

"The job is in fact easier if you just remove the plenum (upper intake manifold) - that way you can clean out the EGR port properly."

It probably is a lot easier to clean that part with the intake plenum off, so you can actually see what your doing. I just dont like to take things off that I really dont "have" to. But if you dont mind the time and work of taking it off, then do it, it will make cleaning much easier. But I think there may be a gasket you have to replace if you do. Not sure if thats correct.

 

There are actually several gaskets that you should take the chance to replace (IMHO).

1. The TB gasket
2. The IACV gasket
3. The EGR guide tube gaskets
4. The plenum gasket
5. Replace the PCV valve

If you pull the plenum, it's a good time to check the rear valve cover for oil leaks and replace that gasket if necessary. Also check the spark plug tube gaskets and replace those as needed.

Once you have it open, the rest is easy.

 

off topic question, but how do you quote only a part of a previous message?

 

Thanks again. Don't know if I will undertake the removal of the upper intake. Consider myself a novice mechanic and in fact was a stretch installing the WS Y-Pipe and Magnaflow Catalytic converter several weekends ago. Would like to reach that level and at somepoint hopefully will.

Regarding the exhaust.....my 99 smells more like a strong metallic fuel odor at the exhaust pipe.....and having just replaced the cat on my 96 wonder if this would really be the problem....again as a novice..don't know much and you could be absolutely right......

On the idle issue...my 96 at cold start-up is consistently at 600-700rpms and maintains through warm.....the 99 on the otherhand at cold start will run at 1.2 t0 1.5k rpm anywhere from 2-4 minutes if I just let it sit.....why the disparity?

 

Your 96 is not behaving as intended.. sounds like part of the fast-idle mechanism is not working. Since it doesn't get very cold (assuming your profile is correct) in Texas you aren't noticing any problems. Move to Chicago or someplace cold and your 96 would have trouble staying running on cold starts..

 

Have to check that. You're right about location. Here is SA it's 85 one day and like today its low 40's. Not Chicago by any means but definitely cold for us thin blooded Texans.

Your take on the exhaust?

 

Is the fuel smell only on startup? On a cold start, having the smell of some unburnt fuel is normal - but that should go away as the car warms up.

 

Has smell wither it's cold or warm out. As for after it warms up will check and let you know.