OK, here's my long, lengthy story....

Got up this morning intending to install my amp/subs and run the wires... All that good stuff. Ended up having to make a run to Best Buy for a new fuse holder. Prior to this, the only thing I'd done to the car (that could've done something) was disconnect the screw on the positive terminal on the battery. I go to start the car, and start driving down the driveway. Car kind of "hesitates" or "stutters," similar to the feeling of being out of gas. As I step on the gas, the car shudders more, reminding me of the time my Camry was almost out of gas...

Anyway, I go up and down the driveway a few times, and the "hesitation" ceases. I then drive down the street, and decide to give my car some heavy acceleration to test. As the RPM's climb, the car pulls strong up to about 3500, and then the RPM's keep climbing, but the pull nearly disappears, and and car kind of "jerks" back and forth very slightly. This feeling is similar to the cruise control turning itself on and off when going downhill... just very subtle. Anyway, I run to Best Buy and come back home, and it always "hesitates" at 3500 RPM's, regardless of whether or not I'm heading uphill, downhill, or level. During normal acceleration, it drives fine, as the RPM's don't climb high enough for this problem to be noticeable.

So I get back home, and tell my dad about the problem. We take turns driving it, and he agress with me that I should take it to the dealer (just bought about 3 weeks ago, have a 50/50 warranty). Also, when I first went down the driveway, I could faintly hear what I thought was the fuel pump "clicking." This sound appeared briefly again when I had my dad with me, and he said it was the engine knocking for a split second (89 octane for 1.5 tanks).

I have absoultely no idea what the problem could be, and I've been searching and reviewing the transmission TSB's. But if it was slipping, the tranny wouldn't always slip at 3500, would it? Anyway, I just wanted to get some opinions about what my problem could possible be, so I'll feel a little better when I visit the dealer later this morning...

 

It is probably your Mass Air Fuel Sensor........ AKA" MAF". And please dont put anymore 89 octane in your poor car. Treat her right. Only 91 & above as per the "Owners Manual". Dont buy the MAF from the dealer. If they are going to replace it for free so be it. If not & they want to charge you call Dave B. Check the stickies or FAQs for his number.He charges under a $100 bucks.

 

Thanks for the input. That seems like a good suspect, as this morning when I drove to the dealer, the car idled roughly for about 5 seconds, and the rpm's dipped from 1300 to 700ish. The dealer's got my car, so I should know something very soon..

 

Update: valve body on the transmission needs to be replaced. $8XX from the dealer. At least I have a 50/50 warranty for the first 30 days...

 

If the car was running OK before you disconnected the battery and you did nothing else but reconnect the battery then what you may be experiencing is the ECM going through the relearn process. Best thing is to accomplish the Readiness for Inspection driving procedure found in your Owners Manual before assuming anything is wrong. After battery reconnect you should drive "normally" for while before going for a "test drive".

 

^ I thought about that, too. But my car shouldn't do some of the things it was, like the stuttering after reconnecting the battery. And this morning, it idled roughly for about 5 seconds and the rpm's dropped briefly. Either way, my car's at the dealer now waiting for the part...

 

Bought the car used with 91K so I decided to change the pan, filter and fluid.

It ran silky after that and the mechanic said the fluid was very dirty.

Regarding your problem, doesn't make sense that it just suddenly happened.

 

Hey i have a 2000 gle and i did the same thing took off a post from the batt to reset the check engine light and when i put it back together my car did the exact same thing and i drove it for 2 weeks before we found out what it was and it was the maf sensor and that's not the worst part the nice dealer wanted $900 to change it and reformat the cpu so well i live in canada a buddy of mine at volvo where i used to work found me a used 1 in NY state for $180 canadian went over and got it and it was like night and day in 5 min put it this way i blew both of my cv boots by the time i got back to my place (well the car does do 260km )

 

Oh but 1 month later i did have to replace the hole transmission that costed $1,400 instaled but now it needs 1 o2 sen and still both axles (they are clicking now) and 2 front rotors and pads and 4 new tires. p.s.s never use 89 octaine these cars hate that in them use 91 and up me i use ultra94 and it works reel good cause i put 89 in like 3 times and it sounded like the motor was going to pop out from under the hood like a loud KNOCKING sound.

 

Mass Air Fuel Sensor?! are you kidding?

Mass Air Flow Sensor FTW!

 

Am I kidding?? Fuel, Flow what ever. He got the point. Typing at 2:30 am after a 16 hour shift & a couple of drinks. What are you trolling the org for peoples errors? Listen "NOOB" here is a post for you......... I rest my case.

 

I think everyone needs to smoke a little something and calm the *** down.

Anyhou, I agree with the MAF diagnosis. Dont think you would be sputtering if it was a VB problem. If the dealer wants to charge you, tell them to go fornicate themselves. Order just the sensor from Dave B. It should be under or around $100 and the install is very easy.

I had my VB replaced a while back, but that was because of really delayed shifting.

 

Did I flame you, no. I simply pointed out a mistake. I also find it amusing that you went out of your way and searched for that thread just to flame me. Props for you, buddy.

 

Throttle Body for $800? Hahahaha. You're getting burned. Take your car back. Order a new MAF from Dave B for $98 and be done with it.

 

^ You misread my post... It's the valve body on the transmission that needed to be replaced, which is now done. Not a snowball's chance in hell I'd pay them $800 for the TB! However, it stutters on startup, so the dealer is going to check it out in the morning. Yes, we now suspect the MAF, and the transmission issue would've needed attention sooner or later. The dealer has the car until tomorrow morning, when my dad will call me to let me know what's up. If it's the MAF, I have no intention of paying the dealer whatever it is, unless 1/2 the total will be $100ish (and I seriously doubt that).

 

Update: The dealer has checked the coils and replaced all (I'm assuming 1 per plug) 6 ignition coils. They've got the car until tomorrow morning to test it with a cold start. My dad should pick it up then, and give it a thorough test drive.

 

I hope for your sake your Dad never has to go pickup one of your girlfriends...

 

^ ? What do you mean, exactly?

 

Where are the ignition coils located and how can i tell they are bummed out.. i changed the spark plugs and i am thinking I need to replace the coils also since the 3 lights came on (ABS, TCF, SLIP)... and how much do usually cost?

 

?? If you changed the spark plugs then you removed the coils... they are the black boxes right over your plugs.

 

Never mind, the joke is longer funny if I have to explain it...

 

i know but if my coils are busted... how do i replace them... the black thing just didn't look like a "coil" =X

Sorry i'm a newb

any bad side affects if i drive with the bad coils? it might be just 1 bad coil out of 6 or something...

 

If you drive wiht bad coils, I'd imagine you'd get worse gas mileage, worse acceleration, problems starting, rough idle (the last 2 I experienced). I've seen pictures of the coils, they don't seem too hard to change. I'd pick up a Haynes or Chilton's manual, replacement guide should be in there.

Update: My dad has picked up the car and "all is well so far." Hopefully I'll have it in a few hours...

Edit: To test/remove your coils, click this link.

 

Update: IT'S FINALLY FIXED!!!!! The dealer replaced the transmission valve body, which we paid 1/2 the price, and all 6 ignition coils and the MAF for free. My stuttering and rpm problems are gone, and the car now has a lot more get up and go.

 

yea im having this problem as well for my car, especially in the morning when the engine is cold, ill accelerate from 1st to 2nd gear and it will get stuck at like 6 rpms sometimes and not shift to 2nd for a painfully long pause.. same thing happens at other gears randomly, but not as often as with the 1st to 2nd changeover. if the VB is the route of my problem, how much was it to get it replaced and from where? im not rich and am not covered by any sort of warantee.




also.. it used to happen more often but has been happening less lately, my car when first turned on goes up to 3 rpms or w/e and then back down (supposed to stay around 1) but turns off with nothing but the electronics still on. what may have caused this and how would i fix that? does this have to do with the coils being bad? any help would be appreciated.