Ok guys I am going to dyno tune this weekend with the EU, hopefully it will all work out ok.I am gonna tune for 12 psi, I am hoping for the 400 mark but you know dont want to hope to big.Well I will let everyone know how it goes, off to central florida turbo.

 

good luck and dont get over zealous and blow your motor. Let us know the results!

 

yeah dont want to go to crazy.

 

use race gas if you're going to run that much boost and push the motor.... it'll help prevent detonation. Thats what I did!! Good luck.

Deac

 

But he is tuning, so he need street gas...(unless he wants two maps, one street and once race gas)

 

Ok guys I am not to happy, base run at 6 was 233.9@5000 and tq was 268.4@3250 then they tune it to what they said was twelve.But when I drive I see boost creep ( I think thats what it is called)my boost drops.It will go to 12 then drop to 9psi.They tuned me there so I believe this is at 9si 296.5 hp@5250 and 342.4 @3500 .These numbers dont sound right to me.The shop I had it tuned at told me it was my boost controller, so I bought a new one,I am going to put it in today and we will see.oh yeah it was a mustang dyno.And they used the vehicle weight of 3500lbs.

 

Boost creep is when boost rises above the desired boost setting, so your gettting the oppostie.

I need to see the graphs to really know anything. But from the #'s you posted sounds like your boost falling off is your problem. The tq seems close to or about right but the peak HP is low which tells me your not holding torque....aka boost is falling off not letting you make hp up top. I bet your graph looks normal at first then things just fall off.

Was 6psi just off your WG spring or was that with the boost controller as well?

It probably is your boost controller....but it does not mean it's broken or does not work right. The gain may just need to be played with to keep boost from falling off. What kind of BC is it? Did the dyno operator try and fix the boost issue? Who was setting the boost controller?

 

lets see the dyno graphs, the HP is definately off for 9psi.

 

Mustang Dyno, runs were done in 3rd.

 

Ok.....


First, what the hell are they doing stoping your pulls at 5k rpm's? did ARF look unsafe? Were they concerned with detonation?


Your spooling fast and hitting peak torque like normal. But then, from the boost falling off, your #'s hit the tank. Your not gonna make good peak Hp like this and it's not as evident as it would be if they would pull your car to redline.

Your lower (6psi) run looks normal and your would have made probably another 20-30 whp if they would have taken it to 6.5K

I have some dyno pulls I can show you that give an example of how holding the torque and boost will make a difference. That is exactly what is happening here. Results are not bad necessarily, things just need to be fixed. The power is there you just need to hold boost.....and do your pulls to redline!


Oh, and do the runs in 4th. You will get much better and accurate #'s

 

Is what the max weighs? When I dyno'd my zx the operator used 2300 when my car weighs over 3000 with me in it. Just curious how accurate this needs to be and what effect it would have on the readings.

 

I'm curious as to why they let off the gas at like 5000rpm... Do you have a wideband of your own or were they using a shop wideband, or neither? Letting off at 5000rpm is just retarded unless there was a problem of sorts, but since you didn't mention a problem...

As for your numbers my assessment of the situation is the same as Mike's, you've got a boost leak or you're not holding boost for some reason after it peaks. Torque looks good but then it just dies off. Mike said on the phone that you have a TurboXS BC, get rid of that crap. TurboXS sucks. Also he said that they started pulling timing at 6psi... way too early. I'd wait til 8 or 9psi on 93 octane.

Post back with some answers to our questions and we can help you further.

 

actually for mustang dyno, those numbers aren't too terribly bad especially with the pulls stopping at 5k and the boost falling off. Those numbers would be in the 340whp range on a dynojet 248c even with the boost falling towards redline.

 

Ok I took off the turboxs tonight and put in a greddy profec b,as far as them stopping the runs at 5kI am not sure they said the a/fs were good.I actually called them and they told me to bring it back.now I just have to find time.Ask me any questions and i will answer to the best of my abilities.The timing right now is retarded like 10 I dont know why.

 

you need to ask the shop why they retarded the timing so much, thats just rediculous if its at 10 degrees. If there answer is to be safe I'd take it to another shop because 10 degrees is just retarded for a car in the 300whp range.

 

Figured you could trust this shop since they have a 97-99 Turbo VQ35 making about 450hp and tq.

 

If they tuned that car like they did his that same vq35 would probably be making 550hp tuned properly.

I do know the CFT has built some sick civics and mustangs but from the info gathered from this thread they have no idea what they are doing with a Maxima.

 

You are prob right. I need to get some free time and tune it my self

 

Three things:

Don't dial timing that low. WTF?

And your weight should be between 3100-3200lbs, not 3500lbs.

Run it to at least 6200RPM. Our VIAS only opens at 5000, so you're cutting it off in your runs.

 

If you have all the proper data logging equipment, I would street tune it yourself first. Then go to a dyno later to tweak things. For 12 psi I would pull maybe 4-5 degrees right as peak torque comes in, then add back a couple degrees after that in the higher rpms.

 

The EU datalogs well I hope. What AF should he look for? He has a wideband and it is connected to the EU so I guess we could drive a little bit and look at the EU data logs, then adjust.

 

I would set it safe for now. 11:1 maybe 11.5:1 at the most. While timing is getting figured out it is better to run rich to help keep cylinder temps down. there won't be much power difference in the AFR, so just keep it rich for safety.

 

I agree with Mike, Id start out around 11:1 until I get the timing dialed in and then tune it for 11:8-12:0 once the timing is corrected and safe.

 

11.8-12.0 AFR on a turbo car is high IMO unless you have a SafeGuard and higher then 91-93 octane fuel. Or you're running a JWT program.

Like Mike said, I'd keep it at 11:1, but no higher then 11.5:1. SCers can go higher, but not on turbo cars IMO.

The EU has AWESOME logging...

 

That particular dyno reads like a DynoJet (as seen by other Evo dyno graphs).

 

I can't believe you guys think 11.8-12.0 af is high on a car that will be making less or close too 400whp. If the timing is safe I dont see the need to run the car pig rich all the time making in between 300-400whp.

 

who are you again? I don't think I've seen you here before.

 

My thinking is that there is very little power to get, if any at all, going from low 11:1 to 12:1. Might as well be a little on the safe side and stay richer....11:1 I would not consider pig rich

 

The dyno might not show huge gains from leaning it out almost a full point, but on the street/track under a lot more load it benefits a lot more. If someone is satisfied with where there tune is thats cool, I just like to ounce out every hp I can and remain perfectly safe. Gas mileage also comes into effect but not enough to really base a discussion on. IMO 11:1 on a car making 350whp or so is pig rich but its not my car so I understand wanting to be as conservative as possible.

 

doesnt a 88-94 mustang rev to 5000 rpm? or 5500 rpm? maybe its what they are used too. Thats really weird. Torque seems good for 9 psi.

 

Mustang dyno has nothing do to with the car

 

How is -3 degrees from 2500-3000 and -4 from 3000-4500? And then -3 from 4500-redline. And the A/F Target is 11.5 all the way.

 

I'm your daddy.

11.8-12.0 is on the lean side, BabyBluByU2k2. Run 11.1-ish and more timing (safely)... that's where the power lies.

 

11.1 it is and same timing as I posted above.

 

BOOM!

 

That wouldn't be a bad starting point. really don't need to pull 4 degrees at 2.5K...

 

Just a temp map until I can get my hands on it for a REAL dyno tune.

 

The only way you can tell is to log timing and view the log after each run. If timing gets pulled via the ECU, then you will need to take out 1* and test again. Adjust timing until it is stable (doesn't fluctuate up and down a lot) while it increases.

Please keep in mind that every car acts different and a "general" number might not work.


Yeah, he'll go BOOM with 11.8-12.0.

 

I don't think the EU logs stock timing. Icey, does it?

 

Here's a log of my car that is decently tuned. I don't know how the Maxima timing table is but this is for the Evo... note the semi-smoothness of timing (degrees) as time (RPM) increases.

Note: AFR is 1 point higher in this log file that it really is... so I'm actually running 11.1-ish, not 12.1.

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