Swapping 0.9 bar radiator cap for 1.2 bar ??
Swapping 0.9 bar radiator cap for 1.2 bar ??
Would there be any benefit swapping out the 0.9 bar radiator cap for a 1.2 bar cap from a 300ZX TT?
This was an upgrade for the Nissan SR20DE and I wanted to know if it would be similiar improvements for the 3.5. I did this on my previous NX2000 and my recently traded in Infiniti G20.
This was an upgrade for the Nissan SR20DE and I wanted to know if it would be similiar improvements for the 3.5. I did this on my previous NX2000 and my recently traded in Infiniti G20.
This will help during hot operating conditions like running the air conditioning while climbing hills, long road trips, bumper to bumper traffic, and high performance track or strip driving. It's especially helpful if you live in a warm climate.
Also, SR20DE powered vehicles tend to experiance water pump cavitation at around 6700 rpm at stock pressure. The higher-pressure rating will help reduce the this risk of cavitation.
Also, SR20DE powered vehicles tend to experiance water pump cavitation at around 6700 rpm at stock pressure. The higher-pressure rating will help reduce the this risk of cavitation.
i've heard this mentioned before, but more towards higher powered vehicles. i won't say that you'll see improvements, but i won't say it'll cause damage, so if it will indeed incrase a boiling point, that can only be an improvement....
Originally Posted by site
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.
The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.
Well, mine was an OEM replacement that cost me only a few buck and definately not the bling bling factor. Increases the pressure from approx. 13.2 lbs psi to 17.6 lbs psi.
Here is the link to my site when I swapped on my G20:
http://nismopc.tripod.com/rad_cap.htm
Here is the link that has the information regarding it:
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/...1/radcap.shtml
Here is the link to my site when I swapped on my G20:
http://nismopc.tripod.com/rad_cap.htm
Here is the link that has the information regarding it:
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/...1/radcap.shtml
Originally Posted by 03on18s
it's the same as a nismo oil cap. just for show, no actual advantages to it.
Originally Posted by nismopc
Would there be any benefit swapping out the 0.9 bar radiator cap for a 1.2 bar cap from a 300ZX TT?
This was an upgrade for the Nissan SR20DE and I wanted to know if it would be similiar improvements for the 3.5. I did this on my previous NX2000 and my recently traded in Infiniti G20.
This was an upgrade for the Nissan SR20DE and I wanted to know if it would be similiar improvements for the 3.5. I did this on my previous NX2000 and my recently traded in Infiniti G20.
I wouldnt worry too much about bubbles in your radiator....
lower rated thermostat sucks.... I tried one out on another car I own and it took 4 ever to get the engine to somewhat operating temp in the winter time. VQ T-stat is not a eassy animal to get at like some other cars are, and with the winter temps you will hate how long it takes for the heat to kick on. I kicked around the idea of putting a Nismo T-stat in my Maxima, but I live in Chicago and like my car warm after a few min of driving. Sure its good in the summer but I dont wanna be switching between T-stats every winter. Your car will stay in OPEN LOOP longer as the engine tries to warm up, degrading your gas mileage also.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
lower rated thermostat sucks.... I tried one out on another car I own and it took 4 ever to get the engine to somewhat operating temp in the winter time. VQ T-stat is not a eassy animal to get at like some other cars are, and with the winter temps you will hate how long it takes for the heat to kick on. I kicked around the idea of putting a Nismo T-stat in my Maxima, but I live in Chicago and like my car warm after a few min of driving. Sure its good in the summer but I dont wanna be switching between T-stats every winter. Your car will stay in OPEN LOOP longer as the engine tries to warm up, degrading your gas mileage also.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
lower rated thermostat sucks.... I tried one out on another car I own and it took 4 ever to get the engine to somewhat operating temp in the winter time. VQ T-stat is not a eassy animal to get at like some other cars are, and with the winter temps you will hate how long it takes for the heat to kick on. I kicked around the idea of putting a Nismo T-stat in my Maxima, but I live in Chicago and like my car warm after a few min of driving. Sure its good in the summer but I dont wanna be switching between T-stats every winter. Your car will stay in OPEN LOOP longer as the engine tries to warm up, degrading your gas mileage also.
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