Hardwiring Indiglow gauges?
Hardwiring Indiglow gauges?
I've searched and unfortunately found nothing pertaining to 3rd gen Indiglow wiring. I've installed mine last night and I don't mind the look, but I really don't like how I have to hit a seperate switch to light the gauges and how I can't dim them. Has anyone ever hardwired these to (for example) the dimmer switch?
I was wondering if you'd have to use a diode (like with LED's) to protect the lights in the gauges? The gauges come with some sort of control box (it hums) and flexible electronic switch. The switch doesn't have a 'memory' like a mechanical switch does, so you have to hit it every time you turn the lights on if you want your gauges to display. I even tried conecting the lead that go to this switch (to create a constant power loop), but that didn't work either. For some reason, you HAVE to push the switch? (Must have something to do with the control box, but I'm not electrician)
Any ideas? Has someone ever hardwired their indiglows b4?
I was wondering if you'd have to use a diode (like with LED's) to protect the lights in the gauges? The gauges come with some sort of control box (it hums) and flexible electronic switch. The switch doesn't have a 'memory' like a mechanical switch does, so you have to hit it every time you turn the lights on if you want your gauges to display. I even tried conecting the lead that go to this switch (to create a constant power loop), but that didn't work either. For some reason, you HAVE to push the switch? (Must have something to do with the control box, but I'm not electrician)
Any ideas? Has someone ever hardwired their indiglows b4?
After further investigation, it seems that these gauges require a 'power inverter' (a small black box that hums when on). An inverter converts DC to AC current (and can increase the voltage as well).
I'm not apposed to keeping the inverter, but I'd like to know how to....., or if it's even possible to.... bypass the need for a seperate switch AND allow the gauges to dim.
Here are the exact gauges I have:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/i388-1989-1994-NI...QQcmdZViewItem
Here's what the inverter looks like:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/EL-GLOW-GAUGES-IN...QQcmdZViewItem
This 'inverter' seems to still require the gauges be turned-on each time you want them, but it has a dimmer. Would it work with the above gauges?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/EL-GLOW-GAUGE-INV...ayphotohosting
I'm not apposed to keeping the inverter, but I'd like to know how to....., or if it's even possible to.... bypass the need for a seperate switch AND allow the gauges to dim.
Here are the exact gauges I have:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/i388-1989-1994-NI...QQcmdZViewItem
Here's what the inverter looks like:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/EL-GLOW-GAUGES-IN...QQcmdZViewItem
This 'inverter' seems to still require the gauges be turned-on each time you want them, but it has a dimmer. Would it work with the above gauges?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/EL-GLOW-GAUGE-INV...ayphotohosting
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cheap ghetto way of rigging it. the 2 wires leading to the on/of slip u can cut and splice into something else that turns on with lights. like ur lighter-ring. or lighter itself if u want it on as soon as u turn ur car on. i had the same ones and they looked great. just had to poke holes for the screws and make sure it lined up correctly. after driving for about 2 weeks the gauges were just way to bright so i took them out and went to stock and bought red led' 194's. hope that helped you.
Hmmm... Thx for the input guys, but neither way worked. Neither way got rid of the need for the extra switch that came with the gauges, and neither way allowed me to dim the gauges.
I even cut-out the original electronic swtch and wired in a regular mechanical style switch and the weirdest thing happened... The switch had to be cycled twice to turn the gauges on, or off. Normally a mechanical switch just needs to go from 'on' to 'off' in order to work. But the inverter somehow required the switch to go from 'on' to 'off' to 'on' again in order to work. (don't ask me why tho - I'm just telling you what happened).
I haven't been able to figure-out how to dim the indiglow gauges, but I did figure-out how to make the gauge lights turn-on just like stock tho.
The Inverter is a small black box with 6 wires coming out of it. 2 that power the inverter. 2 that run to the electronic switch. 2 that power the gauges.
Inverter switch wires - 1 to ground, 1 to nothing.
NOTE: only one wire will make this work, so reverse them until you find the one that works.
Inverter power wires - splice the RED wire into the RED W/YELLOW STRIPE wire that goes into the existing BLACK connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster. (note: it's the only black connector that goes to the back of the gauges) Splice the BLACK wire from the inverter into one of the 2 available BLACK wires that go into the same existing BLACK connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.
Inverter gauge wires - both are black. If you decided to use the flimsy little connectors supplied with the gauges, then just plug them in and your gauges will work and light without the need for a the additional switch supplied with the gauges.
I didn't like the supplied connectors so I cut them off and wired in one simple factory Nissan connector instead. Should be easier for future removal and less prone to breaking.
If I can't figure-out how to make the gauges dim as well, I think I may just spray the clear plastic gauge cover with spray tint - hiding the gauges when they're not on.
Oh, and the reason I tapped-into the existing black connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster is because I can hide/place the little black box (inverter) in the right-hand side opening that is behind the gauge cluster in the dash. This position is convenient, makes all the gauge connections 'make sense' for future use, and I think it'll mask the 'hum' the inverter makes when it's on.
I also stated in my second post that an inverter can (supposedly) increase voltage output. Well I think that's true.... If you happen to touch your bare 'power' connections b4 wrapping or soldering them, while the inverter is on......, you'll get a nice little jolt... ;-)
I even cut-out the original electronic swtch and wired in a regular mechanical style switch and the weirdest thing happened... The switch had to be cycled twice to turn the gauges on, or off. Normally a mechanical switch just needs to go from 'on' to 'off' in order to work. But the inverter somehow required the switch to go from 'on' to 'off' to 'on' again in order to work. (don't ask me why tho - I'm just telling you what happened).
I haven't been able to figure-out how to dim the indiglow gauges, but I did figure-out how to make the gauge lights turn-on just like stock tho.
The Inverter is a small black box with 6 wires coming out of it. 2 that power the inverter. 2 that run to the electronic switch. 2 that power the gauges.
Inverter switch wires - 1 to ground, 1 to nothing.
NOTE: only one wire will make this work, so reverse them until you find the one that works.
Inverter power wires - splice the RED wire into the RED W/YELLOW STRIPE wire that goes into the existing BLACK connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster. (note: it's the only black connector that goes to the back of the gauges) Splice the BLACK wire from the inverter into one of the 2 available BLACK wires that go into the same existing BLACK connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.
Inverter gauge wires - both are black. If you decided to use the flimsy little connectors supplied with the gauges, then just plug them in and your gauges will work and light without the need for a the additional switch supplied with the gauges.
I didn't like the supplied connectors so I cut them off and wired in one simple factory Nissan connector instead. Should be easier for future removal and less prone to breaking.
If I can't figure-out how to make the gauges dim as well, I think I may just spray the clear plastic gauge cover with spray tint - hiding the gauges when they're not on.
Oh, and the reason I tapped-into the existing black connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster is because I can hide/place the little black box (inverter) in the right-hand side opening that is behind the gauge cluster in the dash. This position is convenient, makes all the gauge connections 'make sense' for future use, and I think it'll mask the 'hum' the inverter makes when it's on.
I also stated in my second post that an inverter can (supposedly) increase voltage output. Well I think that's true.... If you happen to touch your bare 'power' connections b4 wrapping or soldering them, while the inverter is on......, you'll get a nice little jolt... ;-)
Did you end up tinting the gauge window? I have the EXACT same setup as you waiting to go in the car, and I'll just tint that clear plastic cover if it worked well for you. I think that has the possibility of looking really cool too. Kind of like a lexus look, you know? Also what is your opinion so far of the setup? Too bright? Pics would be cool just to see what these gauges look like since almost nobody else has them. Thanks!
No, I didn't end-up tinting the plastic cover (yet). I get easily side-tracked with new and exciting projects...
(shaved antenna and power outlet in back of console...)
The gauges are bright - but they're not overly bright. If you have the exact same set-up, then why not just stick'em in the car and see if you like'em?
(shaved antenna and power outlet in back of console...)The gauges are bright - but they're not overly bright. If you have the exact same set-up, then why not just stick'em in the car and see if you like'em?
I installed these gauges yesterday, and other than some tweaking I need to do from me having only 45 minutes to do the install....they work great, I just left it where I have to push the button, it's really not that much of a hastle to me. Also, I don't think they are too bright, I'll post pics of my setup soon, after I get the needles moving.
I'll probably do that this week. I'm in the middle of an LED conversion and painting the trim pieces duplicolor medium grey metallic. I also have a new clock. I'm just trying to do everything at once.
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