Best Aftermarket Speakers For Stock Bose???
Best Aftermarket Speakers For Stock Bose???
What I plan to do is keep my stock HU, & hook up my 10" P3 through Rockford's new "360" It will be a bit till I can get all that hooked up, so as for now it will be stock for awhile. I like the way the stock speakers sound, its just that the rear speakers will pop and destort alot from too much bass when turned up. Alot of the times it won't, and produces really good bass, but on certain songs with certain bass lines, it will rattle, destort, & pop. Also, the rears sound very muffled & un-clear, with not too much treble. What are some aftermarket speakers that are compatible with the stock 1 ohm rating or whatever? I just want better sounding speakers, that will bolt in, without sacrificing that deep bass I get from the stocks.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I am sorry. This is not the answer to your question but I did want to ask you how did you make the light in your car illuminate. Mine is so dim and barely noticable while that looks bright. What do I have to do to get mine like that. Also I feel you on the bose speakers they do distort a little on base lines like ex(Ciara feat Ludacris-Oh) That base line is very strong and it doesn't sound the best it could. So actually I am looking for answers too.
To answer your question, scroll down to post #24 in this link
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469629
I explain where I got the bulbs, how much, what exact bulbs & everything.
Hope this helps.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469629
I explain where I got the bulbs, how much, what exact bulbs & everything.
Hope this helps.
I don't know of any speakers besides the Bose that are compatible. Almost everyone that has replaced them had to replace the entire system, H/U and all.
The problem might just be your amp, or your H/U. I still have my amps still, but they're disconnected. I could sell them to you, but I'd hate to do that and not have that fix your problem.
I noticed with my Bose, that my driver's door speaker would do the same thing when i used tapes. Other than that, it worked fine.
The problem might just be your amp, or your H/U. I still have my amps still, but they're disconnected. I could sell them to you, but I'd hate to do that and not have that fix your problem.
I noticed with my Bose, that my driver's door speaker would do the same thing when i used tapes. Other than that, it worked fine.
The way I believe the stock bose system is setup is theirs frequency filter's built on the amp's that's why you are not getting a lot of treble from the rear's and not much base in the front. I would suggest not putting money into replacing your rear speakers in the back until your ready to do the entire system.
The rear speakers are also cheap paper and tend to not hold up. They are 12+ years old now and aren't likely to last much longer.
When I bought my car it had the stock amps/speakers with an Alpine HU and a peripheral adapter (I also got the stock HU, but I sold it). The speakers in the rear were both torn and the amps in the front were messed up. I had to start from scratch and I ended up replacing everything.
When I bought my car it had the stock amps/speakers with an Alpine HU and a peripheral adapter (I also got the stock HU, but I sold it). The speakers in the rear were both torn and the amps in the front were messed up. I had to start from scratch and I ended up replacing everything.
The stock bose speakers are 2 ohms, you can put any aftermarket speakers in there since they are all (mostly) 4 ohms. That means they will not get as much power as the stockers, but since they are WAY more efficient they will play louder.
I seriously doubt that the stock amps are blocking the treble, they are simply cheap full range cones, that are not capable of producing good highs.
You might want to consider rebuilding the stock amps, the capacitors dry out, there are a few how-to's out there.
Personally I reccomend removing all the amps/head unit, place them on concrete, then with the aid of a sledge hammer firmly strick the units until small pieces are formed. Then install a new system.
I seriously doubt that the stock amps are blocking the treble, they are simply cheap full range cones, that are not capable of producing good highs.
You might want to consider rebuilding the stock amps, the capacitors dry out, there are a few how-to's out there.
Personally I reccomend removing all the amps/head unit, place them on concrete, then with the aid of a sledge hammer firmly strick the units until small pieces are formed. Then install a new system.
I'm getting mixed answers here. I'm pretty sure the stockers are run @ 1 ohm. Also eric93SE, if they do run at 2 ohms, they ARE compatible with aftermarket speakers, and WILL be louder than my stocks?
Don't use aftermarket speakers w/ Bose amps. They may "work", but they aren't compatible and will probably blow in the long run. Just get aftermarket and power them with an amp or if you have an aftermarket HU w/ an amp, use that.
Have you checked the cones on the rear speakers? Sometimes they fall apart from weather and such. If the cones have pulled away from the rim, this can cause them to buzz. It's possible to have speakers re-coned at some specialty places (check phone book). I reconditioned my home, old Infinity woofers and they're like new.
If you want truely loud, then you have no choice but to go aftermarket. If your on the cheap then replace them. Whether the stockers were 1 or 2 ohms, to go to a higher impedence will be LESS of a load on the amplifiers, putting out less power, but like I said, new speakers today are very efficient compared to the stock junk so it will be equally loud.
Originally Posted by eric93SE
to go to a higher impedence will be LESS of a load on the amplifiers

Where the heck did you learn this? Ohms is a measure of electrical resistance, or LOAD put onto a electrical system. Less ohms mean less resistance, less load. More ohms mean more resistance, more of a load. Why do you think that amplifiers have multiple ratings, and those of 1 ohm setups have a higher wattage rating than those of 4 ohms?
Either 2 things are going to happen. The amp is going to fry, or the speaker is going to blow. And I'd put my money on both happening at the same time due to the age of the amplifiers, and the incompatability of the setup.
The only way of going to higher resistance components and lowering the overall resistance is to hook the components in parrallel, there by spreading the resistance out.
Originally Posted by kcidmil

Where the heck did you learn this? Ohms is a measure of electrical resistance, or LOAD put onto a electrical system. Less ohms mean less resistance, less load. More ohms mean more resistance, more of a load. Why do you think that amplifiers have multiple ratings, and those of 1 ohm setups have a higher wattage rating than those of 4 ohms?
Either 2 things are going to happen. The amp is going to fry, or the speaker is going to blow. And I'd put my money on both happening at the same time due to the age of the amplifiers, and the incompatability of the setup.
The only way of going to higher resistance components and lowering the overall resistance is to hook the components in parrallel, there by spreading the resistance out.
Amps rated at a lower impedance ex: 1ohm will have a higher power rating simply because 1 ohm is a higher load than ex: a 4 ohm load.
i need help
i have a 1992 Maxima. its the first car i owened by my self. i worked to buy it. i am having problems with the stereo. the back two bose speakers don't work right. one makes no noise. and the other makes a loud annoying noise. the front driver speaker is shot. the passenger speaker is the only one that works. but i need my loud music back. can anybody help me out with this problem?
i replaced my stock bose rear speakers with 140 watt 2 way 6X9 pioneers(4ohm), the sound initially had way too much treble. i then put a 1.5 ohm resistor in parallel with each of the speakers to bring the nominal impedence down to 1 ohm. this gave the speakers a much better sound and restored the bass. i have run this setup for almost 2 years without problems. im know that a resistor does not act exactly like a speaker but it seemed to work pretty well and costs nothing compared to replacing the whole system. i plan on replacing the fronts with some pioneers + resistors eventually
EDIT: they are a little quieter than the stock speakers after i put the resistor in so i adjusted the front to rear balance **** to even it out
EDIT: they are a little quieter than the stock speakers after i put the resistor in so i adjusted the front to rear balance **** to even it out
There is NO solution to run Bose Amps with aftermaket speakers. They will work, but it is not suitable. The stock Bose amps are no more than 10 watts @ 2 Ohms. It's not worth keeping the stock HU anyways, If I were you and wanted to put in all that stuff, I'd go out and buy a cheap HU till upgrading to a Pioneer or Alpine.
Another thing that you should NOT do with a Bose Amp, is run a high-level input into an aftermarket amp, this is a good way to burn out the high-level input section of the board on a good amp. Aftermarket amps are designed to input only 4 Ohms.
If you can do the math right, you can figure out what kind of resistor to use on your stock bose speakers to cut out the bass, so they dont pop.
Another thing that you should NOT do with a Bose Amp, is run a high-level input into an aftermarket amp, this is a good way to burn out the high-level input section of the board on a good amp. Aftermarket amps are designed to input only 4 Ohms.
If you can do the math right, you can figure out what kind of resistor to use on your stock bose speakers to cut out the bass, so they dont pop.
I had the BOSE system in my Max, the amps all fried eventually, and I replaced them with 3 inch 2 way Kenwoods in the front(model name escapes me at the moment), and 6x9 3 way Kenwood 6969ie's in the rear. Had to bypass the amps(the fronts i just ripped out, got lazy on the rears so now the wires just kinda hang there)but now I have a system that hits so hard on some songs that the spoiler RATTLES as if I had subs
Originally Posted by DigitalMaxima90
what size speakers are a drop in replacement for the front doors on a 1989 Maxima GXE w/ Bose. I heard they were 4" but my uncle said looks like they fit 6.5 or 5.25
you can get a bracket that will allow you to put in 6.5s from James92Se (hope I have his year right) which will yeild a nice improvement in sound.
BTW I have a set of good front amps and speaker available
i need to know by tonight wether the front two speakers are 4x9's 4's or 6x9's. please email me. FBI_Knight@yahoo.com
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