I just thought I would make more power.
What do you think?

recap, my set up is. V2, 2.875 pulley, FMIC, 2 stage water/alch injection, CAI, 510 injectors, 3" headers, 2.75" cat-back to the factory muffler, 3" cutout after the headers (set at 8-9 psi), eManage (secondary injector harness), J&S, NRH tranny.

307.49 HP, 270.49 TQ SAE, about 94 F outside

 

Are you pulling ignition timing? With both the FMIC and the water/alch that is a lot more cooling than most SCer ppl here and you have J&S.

I was going to ask about the dips, but then I realized the graph was vs. speed. I think Rpm tells you a better story.

Was the cutout open? How much boost do you see?

 

Seems to me you should have made quite a bit more.
I put down 5hp less then you and you have a smaller pulley, a V2 blower and your exhaust setup is way more free flowing then mine with the headers and cutout installed.
How many runs did you do? Were the numbers similiar on all runs?

 

I am pulling very little ign timing. The dips are being caused by some Torque Converter issues. Rob from NRH is going to come down to fix it. He thinks the TC is going in & out of lockup. Cutout opens at around 8-9 psi

I did make alittle bit more, but I was too close to getting lean and I don't want to blow the motor. I mmade aboput 20 hp/tq more, but they did not save me those runs. Instead they just saved me the final runs. We ran it around 5 times once we had it tune right.


Do you think the high outside temp would cause me to have ,ower numbers? I was also on pump gas 93 octane.

 

Outside temps as well as engine temps.
How much time did you allow for cooling down before each pull?
So you put down around 327? If so thats does sound a bit better.

 

He does have an autotragic. That may have something to do with it. At 10PSI and no intercooler I put down 321 Hp and 260tq. The size and weight of his wheels may also have something to do with the numbers.

 

Outside temps will not cause lower numbers when you use SAE or STD correction - SAE and STD correction attempt to "negate" the temp difference (and pressure differences) between different atmospheric conditions, adjusting the numbers to a standard reference temperature and pressure. This is why SAE and STD numbers are not accurate for boosted vehicles - they are only applicable to NA vehicles for accuracy and even then I don't consider them accurate because often the equipment used to determine the atmospheric conditions is often quite a bit off. For a boosted car, the only number that is "true" is the uncorrected number. If for instance your car put down 300whp uncorrected and 320 corrected - your car only put down 300whp. The 320whp is a value calculated based on the atmospheric conditions for that run for a car that the dyno assumes to be naturally aspirated. Boost for the most part negates the things that the correction is taking into account (things that affect NA cars but not boosted cars i.e. atmospheric pressure.)

It's exactly like corrected track numbers. You might run 14.0 @ 100mph on your timeslip, and then you go put your numbers and the weather conditions into one of those NHRA correction factor calculators and they might say 13.5 @ 104mph. You can't just go say "hey I ran 13.5 @ 104mph" because you didn't you ran 14.0 @ 100 and probably would have run better had the weather been better. But to say you actuall ran 13.5 @ 104mph would be untrue.

Heatsoak can affect numbers though, because heatsoak is not an atmospheric condition, but rather a vehicle condition.

 

Rob at NRH said that my numbers may be alittle lower because he changes the gearing alittle and makes 3rd true 1:1 gear instead of the 1:1.1 or so that the factory tranny really is. I don't know, guessing.

I do think I have loss some to0p end with the FMIC, but it is more relyable and seems more tourque in the midrange areas.

Thanks for the input.

 

I thought third was a 1:1. Most autos have a 1:1 ratio somewhere in them since it is so easy to do on an auto.

 

Can you post in in RPM?

 

Nice numbers, but I think the FMIC is holding you back some. Whats the size of you're intercooler????

 

I dopn't know the exact ratio, but the factory one is not a true 1:1... so I have read. I will try to find the exact numbers.

FMIC, is way too big, i think. 30 X 12 X 4 I am sure it is robbing some power. But I guess better safe than sorry.

Which one do I change... the one on the bottom to RPM (the one that says "Speed")?

 

[QUOTE=LatinMax]FMIC, is way too big, i think. 30 X 12 X 4 I am sure it is robbing some power. But I guess better safe than sorry.QUOTE]


Yo that's way too large for an SC car. That's the same size I on my sr20det S13 (240sx), and I'am building that to make over 500whp. Look around, they make small intercooler for SC cars for BMW and other high end cars, and that might work better. That what I'am doing......

 

Yes, just left click on it and change it to Engine RPM.

 

Toss the IC and run 50/50 methanol/water injection IMO.

 

Heat is my cars biggest enemy. When my car is hot I've run 16's and when I let it cool down I can run 15.0. Any suggestions on how to fight this problem besides letting it sit for an hour or so?

 

Here you go

 

Oh my!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 5-speed swap anyone????? LOL

 

Rob from NRH told me he is flying in in the next couple weeks to fix the cycling in my tranny.

 

I'd really consider doing what icy suggested... if you're concerned about power production get a smaller intercooler. Bigger does not equal better in this case. Your intercooler is about the right size for a car making probably 700-800hp. You're obviously not going to come anywhere close to that, and the increased safety you speak of is severe overkill. With that water/alky AND J&S injection you don't need that intercooler, you actually don't need any. Were that my setup I would have absolutely no qualms about ditching that intercooler entirely. If you're that concerned (it is unwarranted imho) you should go with a smaller intercooler.

It's safest to homeschool your kids so they never leave the house and to make them wear full protective gear and stay in a padded room their entire lives so they don't ever get hurt, but is that practical? Most would say no. That is akin to what you've got going on here.

 

OK, that makes sense. I will start looking for a smaller intercooler.... this way I don't have to change all the piping.

Any suggestions on where to look for one?

 

Ebaymotors?????

 

Do you know any information about Rob and his plans for NRH? Do you know if he still plans on building transmissions? I wonder if he will still stand by his lifetime warranty since he's out of business. Also, do you know if this is a temporary thing until he finds a new garage?

Sorry for the slight OT post. I just couldn't contact you any other way. Thanks for the help!

 

I don't know what his plans are after he take care of my tranny. I will ask him once I talk to him again.

 

Thanks. Please let me know when you know something.

 

I don't think those numbers are that low. Sure some of the changes suppested will help some, but I would not expect them to be miracle workers.