I have a set of 2 year old D2's. The front right has blown. Where have you sent them to be revalved? Because the D2's and KSports are very similar, I'm figuring that if a place can repair a KSport, they could also do a D2. I searched but didn't find any specific info/links as to where to send them. I realize they are out of warranty and I'll have to pay to get it fixed.

 

Did you contact D2?

 

Interestingly enough, the dampers are the point of greatest difference between those two coilover kits...

But IMO you are right that any good shop should be able to do both. Autoline Industries, Ksport's US distributor, sends their rebuild/repair work to a speed shop near them that also does stuff for a certain very important pro racing series. No guarantees, but it's worth asking. Autoline's phone number is 480-829-8100.

Or, you could just go through D2's US presence... http://www.d2racing.com/html/contact.html

 

Koni USA can also rebuild/revalve any OEM, coilover, or aftermarket shock. It will run you about $110 per shock

Personally i'd prefer them over K-sport or D2

 

Thanks for the replies. I just emailed D2. We'll see what they say and the charge.

 

If you don't get decent help from D2 you could ask King in New Berlin for their suggestions.
http://www.kingmotorsports.com/

 

Thanks for the link. Never knew about them!

 

D2 emailed back. A replacement core would be $115 shipped and I'd need to install it. Sending mine to them for the work would be $150.

Has anyone replaced the core? I'm figuring it can't be too difficult.

 

The only tricky part is removing and reinstalling the top nut without turning the piston in the shaft, which can damage the damper and leave you right back where you started. When you're taking the coilover apart, that is a piece of cake if you have air tools: simply hold the piston firmly with your hand and use the impact wrench on the top nut. Installing it is another matter, though, because you have to torque that nut right back to spec: Too much or too little torque will cause noise and premature wear from the pillow ball mount. D2's rebuilder will have a machine that can get the right torque without turning the piston, but you will have to either improvise something or guess at how far you're torquing it and hope you got it right.

 

That shaft is made to be able to turn in there.. I don't see a bit of turning slowly is goign to hurt a freshly rebuilt shock with new seals. think about which parts have to move against each other while you're driving and turning around a corner. sometimes the monoball at the top turns (usually not when I've watched it on my 240), but most of the time, the shaft turns inside the shock housing.

on an OEM-type strut mount, the top is fixed into position in the large rubber mount so it never turns. any steering done on the car is going to turn the strut shaft inside the tube.. it's just part of the design of a macpherson strut.

But for those of you completely **** about not turning it.......

I can do this with my KTS coilovers on my 240 and the design is very similar, so you *should* be able to do this on your D2/K Sport/whatever as well.

take the spring and the lower perch and stuff off from the bottom of the shock so that you can easily access the shock tube and such with no spring or boot in the way. that will allow you to tighten that top nut and grip onto the shaft....

The easiest thing there would be to wrap the shaft in rubber tape (you can buy a roll of it at the hardware store near the electrical tape. it runs about $10 per roll. the stuff is made by 3M and official name is "linerless splicing tape").. works great for just building up a thin layer of protective rubber over something to protect against chafing or something.

wrap a half dozen or so turns around that, or just use a strap of rubber from somewhere else and some pliers to gently grip onto the tube to keep it from turning. Your best bet would be to wrap it in rubber tape, then use a strap wrench around the shaft. zero scratches or deformation that way.
You can then torque the nut without turning the shaft.

then just slide the dust boot up (if there is one), install the spring, then the lower spring perch/collars and finally the strut mount bracket at the bottom. tighten everything down and you're good to go. should take about 5 min each.

 

Man oh man. That is brilliant. Where were you when I was risking damage to my pillow ball mount...

 

Sears offers rubber jaw guards for the Robogrip pliers. They're like $3 for a bag of em and they work great for holding the shaft.

 

Thanks for the info, Matt. I'll be ordering the insert/core soon. Sure will be nice not to have to send them in for repair....and less espensive, too!

 

Just rebuilt the D2. Pretty simple. The new insert/core has an allan wrench fitting on the top, so you can tighten the top nut without having to tape and hold the piston shaft. Now THAT'S a good idea!

 

That makes it too easy!!

 

...and I'm glad!.......especially for us suspension noobs.

Thanks for your earlier input and info about the repair, Matt. Much appreciated!