I'm replacing the right rear wheel bearing/hub assembly in my 2003 Maxima, and have searched, but can find no how-to write up. At the least, I need the torque spec for the rear spindle nut that holds the hub in place.

Can anyone provide that spindle nut torque spec? Is it the same as for 1995-1999 Maximas?

Also, is there a cotter pin on this hub nut on 2003's?

I have a Haynes Manual, but naturally it is light on 2003 details, and of course the only MY dates for which it omits the required spindle nut torque is 2000-2003. Naturally. Yeah, I know Haynes sux compared to a factory shop manual, but I've had my car less than 2 weeks, so please give me a break! I'll have a shop manual soon, but need that nut torque spec before Saturday morning. Thanks!

 

137 to 188 lb/ft. 5th gen is same as 4th gen. My 2000 does NOT have a cotter pin on the rears.

 

Thanks!

Yes, that torque range also matches the spec Haynes provided for the Gen 4 models. What threw me was that my Haynes manual provided the spec for the 2004 model's rear spindle nut, and it was much lower, so I wasn't comfortable interpolating between the '99 spec and the '04 spec

irish44j, You rock! :

 

I thinkk the difference is that the 4th/5th gens have the good 'ol beam axle setup, while the 6th gen have independent rear suspensions. I'm not sure "why" that should affect the torque specs, but it probably does.

Mine also is just up to '99 (misplaced my FSM a couple months ago), but the 5g should be the same.

 

OK - I wanted to share this. In searching throughout the forum I finally found this link to where I could download a copy of my Maxima's service manual.

With that I obtained the entire procedure (what there is of one) for the replacement of the rear bearing/hub unit.

• I confirmed the spindle nut torque spec is indeed 138-188 ft-lb (pretty much what irish said)
• I found out I'll need to remove the ABS wheel sensor before I remove the hub (might or might not have been obvious)
• Also found out that the spindle nut & grease cap should not be re-used.

Back to the on-line manual: I don't know how such a thing is available for a free download without some kind of virus or some other catch, but I scanned the downloaded and expanded files with Norton & all seems OK so far. Maybe it'll expire after a short period; I'm not sure.

Hopefully I've helped someone else with this report out.

 

Succinct, thanks for the thought, but please don't post the link to the download site in the open forms, it is a violation of copyright law for which the site is liable. I don't even know why the other post still has it in there. People can PM you (or me) if they want the link.

There is no catch with the site or the FSMs on the site. I have used my 2002 FSM for 2 years now.

 

Sorry about that - I'll be sure to avoid doing it again in the future. Thanks for the gentle reminder.

 

OK I finished replacing my rt rear wheel bearing/hub tonight. Wasn't too bad. Took my slow self about 2 hours start-to-finish. The stuff I thought would be tough wasn't and vice-versa.

So I am a VERY happy camper because that frappin' rumbling "FACTORY" I had in the back seat over 30mph is now gone. So now that I know for sure it wasn't the tires, I am LIKING the Hankook Ventus H-2s that came on my car! In fact, I am liking my car a whole lot more now!

 

btw, the reason they have you remove the ABS sensor, IIRC, is so it doesn't accidentally 'go off' and spin the hub if the battery isn't unplugged. I just pull the ABS fuse instead....

btw, I'm replacing both of my rears this weekend with some 20K mile junkyard hubs...I figure they'll be quieter than my noisy 110K ones...

 

It was a PITA removing that ABS sensor, but it was so close to the pulse ring I figured I was risking damage if I didn't move it.

Those rear bearings are surprisingly cheap units considering it's a hub/bearing combo. List is $120 (which is naturally what my dealer charged), but Dave B can supply them for $95 each. I'm sure your salvaged pieces were even cheaper.

Oh - don't forget to replace the retaining lock nut with a new nut for each one you replace (about $2.50 to $4 each at the dealer). The svce manual sez to also replace the grease cap, but I don't see that being necessary and none of the local dealers here in Richmond stocked them anyway.

 

No problem, thanks for your understanding.

 

Just auto-x the Mazda from now on...

Are you sure the ones from Brandywine are in good shape? I assume you know which car they came off....

 

One word of caution I want to add is that the bearings do not look to be completely sealed, and the new bearning/hub I bought from the dealer was incredibly double-wrapped. So be wary of dirt in any of these you buy used - it won't take much to ruin the bearing! If they were removed carefully from the donor car and protectively packaged, you should be OK; otherwise the ones you buy used may end up failing prematurely.

 

Anyone got a tip on how to get the spindle nut off? My impact won't budge it and neither will my breaker bar. Do I need to knock out the crimp the factory put on the nut, because it seems like when I try I am going to do more harm than good.

 

So here is my experiance with the rear hubs. I have replaced 2 in the last 6-8 month time frame. One purchased and Auto Zone and this last one at O'Rielly Auto Parts. So the factory one I took off the car seemed to be completely sealed front and back but the one I purchased from Auto Zone was not, I am referring to the nut side of the hub assembly here. I could see the bearings which right away bothered me. I figured they wouldn't have sold me something if it wasn't right(LOL right!!) but I went home and put it on. 6 months and about 7000 miles later the annoying huuummmm down the hwy started up again. I just finished replacing the same one again today with one from O'Rielly Auto Parts. Same thing all over again, can see the bearings and no seal or gasket is included. I bought some lithium type grease and packed it in real tight. Put the nut on, and packed more in, then packed more in the dust cover. This is probably not the right thing to do i realize that but I am headed to Alaska in 2 days and had to get it done! No way I could listen to the Hummmm for 3000 miles!