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DIY Exhaust Modification question

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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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Exhaust Modification question... updated

For those of you that have put on an aftermarket muffler that is NOT bolt-in replacement such as Cattman, GReddy, etc, what kind of work did it take?

Basically, this is for I30ds and others who have the dynomax and thrush-style mufflers.

Basic Questions:
How much did the muffler cost?
How do you install it?
what is our rear section diamater for the muffler's inlet?
Should I use clamps or have it welded?
and lastly, How much did it cost you to have the muffler installed professionally?

I've kinda made my mind up on the dynomax super turbo muffler because of this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoMAEt8CPMA

but im always open to suggestions if you can send me a link.

FYI, I've found the muffler at Advance Auto parts for 38 bucks.
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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1. i got a dynomax superturbo muffler from summit for like 47+shipping.
2. i took my muffler to a shop to get it installed.
3. i got a 2.5 inlet to match the rest of my exhaust.
4. i would just get it welded on so you don't have to worry about clamps.
5. i don't remember how much i paid to get it welded on but it was around 50
The muffler in the video is also a superturbo and IIRC the ones at advance auto are not the superturbo one and if they are they are too small.
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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abc, do you have at least an aftermarket B-pipe? I thought our stock exhaust piping was 2 1/4" not 2.5".

I could be wrong though.
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mydecember1985
For those of you that have put on an aftermarket muffler that is NOT bolt-in replacement such as Cattman, GReddy, etc, what kind of work did it take?

Basically, this is for I30ds and others who have the dynomax and thrush-style mufflers.

Basic Questions:
How much did the muffler cost?
How do you install it?
what is our rear section diamater for the muffler's inlet?
Should I use clamps or have it welded?
and lastly, How much did it cost you to have the muffler installed professionally?

I've kinda made my mind up on the dynomax super turbo muffler because of this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoMAEt8CPMA

but im always open to suggestions if you can send me a link.

FYI, I've found the muffler at Advance Auto parts for 38 bucks.
1. Muffler was $40
2. Had shop install it. Basically they took the hangers off the stock muffler and welded them to the new one. Then, they had to weld and bend in let and out let piping to the muffler and then finish it off with a tip that I picked out.
3. in let and out let piping is 2.5'' to match the rest of the exhaust.
4. Have it welded
5. Labor was $70

Muffler I have is not a super turbo... it is just regualr turbo so the exhaust tone is not quite as raspy and is more smoothed out in sound, but the basic decibel level is the same.
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NewLoveI30
abc, do you have at least an aftermarket B-pipe? I thought our stock exhaust piping was 2 1/4" not 2.5".

I could be wrong though.
yes i do have a aftermarket b pipe and the stock is 2 1/4.
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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i've heard the regular turbo muffler and it doesn't sound any different in tone compared to the superturbo. The guy actually had a bigger resonator than i did but it seemed like his exhuast was louder than mine. I had gotten the regular one at first but when it got here it was all banged up and i opt to get the superturbo due to the fact they had a warrenty with it.
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:04 PM
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So what exactly is the diff between the thrush turbo and super turbo? The description at summit racing is quite similar except for the fact that it says the thrush quiets down at speed.

This is the exact muffler I was looking into. I lioke that it has one inlet, and 2 outlets, just like my stock, but the outlets are a good ways apart. So it might look a bit weird with tips on it from the rear.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...iew=32&N=700+0
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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These are my options for the regular thrush turbo. Not so pleased it doesnt have 2 outlets..
http://store.summitracing.com/compar...5&autoview=sku





About my last post, our mufflers have side inlets, instead of central, so I think that might cause aesthetic problems......
Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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hahaha!
Found a side inlet / dual oulet!!
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

BUT, at the very bottom, it says "Notes: Crossover Muffler", but it's still calssified as a "super turbo" muffler. gonna have to call dynomax.
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 01:04 PM
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I finally decided to go with this one: Ordered it today.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...iew=32&N=700+0

I know it's got a central inlet, but since the muffler is smaller in each direction by almost 2 inches, the local mufflershop said they could probably either heat the pipe to bend it or possibly throw on a 2" extension to get to it.

I looked into other products including magnaflow, and flowmaster, but they all seemed to be along the lines of just being plain LOUD.

Assuming it should be here late this week, early next week, I should have it on by wednesday next week.
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 01:37 PM
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Keep us updated on your experience.

Definitely try to post a clip of exhaust note and your tip choice after installation.
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by abci30
i've heard the regular turbo muffler and it doesn't sound any different in tone compared to the superturbo. The guy actually had a bigger resonator than i did but it seemed like his exhuast was louder than mine. I had gotten the regular one at first but when it got here it was all banged up and i opt to get the superturbo due to the fact they had a warrenty with it.
Point taken... I've never heard the two side by side, but my set up definately does not sound like the exhaust on that you tube video. He could have a completely different set up than what I am running. For all I know, he could have a small exhaust leak...
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mydecember1985
I finally decided to go with this one: Ordered it today.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...iew=32&N=700+0

I know it's got a central inlet, but since the muffler is smaller in each direction by almost 2 inches, the local mufflershop said they could probably either heat the pipe to bend it or possibly throw on a 2" extension to get to it.

I looked into other products including magnaflow, and flowmaster, but they all seemed to be along the lines of just being plain LOUD.

Assuming it should be here late this week, early next week, I should have it on by wednesday next week.

Why are you getting a muffler with two out lets? You only need one.
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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i guess he probably wants the stock look since 2000's came with 2 outlets
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Yes, I wanted to keep the stock look. Bad part is..... look at how far apart the outlets are. I'm gonna put some very large tips like these borla's on there or something.


I think 2 of those huge things would draw some attention, but wouldnt make it look insanely ricey or cheap-ish.
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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Crazy lookin tip! It may be a little too elaborate to have a clean look.
Old Oct 11, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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The spacing of the outlets are pretty far apart compared to an oem muffler. You could use huge tips to try to compensate for this, but how do you think it will look over all?
Old Oct 11, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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I'm going to run to the Autozone up the road, and I'll just ask them if I can take some of the tips outside to see which would look best. I've done stuff like that before. I'm constantly in there working on one of my friends' cars. Almost everyone I know has a 4-banger S10, Honda, or Toyota.

While I'm there, if I can get my g/f to take a pic or two(assuming my camera still works) of me holding some of the better looking tips in place, I'll post em up to get your opinions.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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alright. The appointment is set up for tomorrow morning at 9a.m..... UGH.. too early for me, but anywho, these are some pics of the muffler tossed up under there sittin on a piece of MDF. I'm no good at my 'slightly' outdated Photoshop 5.01 , so I couldnt make it look like how I envision it, but you kinda get the idea.







Of course, the muffler will be hidden up behind the bumper's edge, and the outlet pipes measure off perfectly to line up the end of the tips to the end of the bumper, assuming the guys at the muffler shop know what they're doing

I'll try to post pics of the install tomorrow night and get a sound clip in the next 2-3 days, if not sooner.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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I suggest if possible to get the tips closer together? It looks kinda of weird....
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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Yeah, maybe see if the shop can bend the outlets inward about a half inch on either side. They definitely look a bit akward spaced that far apart. The shop may have to lengthen the outlets a bit anyway to get correct fitment, so this it may not be hard to correct.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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Yeah, tips look slightly too far apart. But if you're fine with it, thats whats most improtant.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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"Technically", the tips are only 1/4" further apart from each other than the stockies are, but yeah, the central port is fairly far out there.

I layed(Laid??) it up under my friends 6th gen Maxima w/ dual exhaust, and it was BARELY larger than his stock tips, but of course he has duals, so it looks even on each side of the car.

I shall find out in about 8-9 hours.
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 05:02 PM
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OKAY.. Here are the results...











In proccess of uploading video to youtube.com now... I have dial up.... so it may take round half an hour.
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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Props for doing something new, but I still think the tips are too big and far apart. Waiting for the sound clip
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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here's the clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83H_84izTJg
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:27 PM
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turns out that during installation, because they couldnt bend the pipe over to meet the center inlet, the cut the pipe in its mid-section where it passes through the suspension framing. Rotated the pipe about 20-25 degrees, welded it back together, and it matched up almost perfectly. I'll post a pic of the welds and work associated with it tomorrow night.
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Actually does not look too bad. What else are you running for exhaust?
Old Oct 18, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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Wish I wasn't at school right now... I really want to hear this clip. Guess I'll have to wait till I get home

And ^^^??
Old Oct 18, 2006 | 08:26 PM
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Working from back to front on this one, I guess you could say. I'm in the proccess of scraping(currently have about 200-250 I'm willing to part with.) to get a cattman "y"; uncertain as to what company "B" I might try. Which do you think should come first, Y, or B???

And does anyone know how much Cattman charges for shipping?

Thinkin bout putting my Xbx up for sale with like 20 games. Couple of playstation games. parting out my AMD 3400 Computer. Lost my XP CD, so whats the point of spending 100+ bucks to reinstall a fairly outdated computer. Ram alone markets for 170+ new. Or, I might even sell my system (just subs and amp). Its WAYYY too loud.(at least for me)
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 04:56 AM
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Proc & Cons: Replacing only the crimped bend in the B-pipe?

I took my car to a muffler shop to get some estimates on replacing the cat, b-pipe, and muffler. The manager looked at the stock midpipe and said, "Actually, you would not have to replace the entire pipe: I can cut out the crimped elbow and part of the straight pipe and weld a mandrel bent section in it's place for $35."

Is this a bad idea, and why so?
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 06:55 AM
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mydecember1985 you should get a y pipe first, more gains from that.
dr-rjp most people replace the whole B pipe to get 2.5" exhaust to try to get as much gains as possible. You can just replace the 2 crimped parts and still get some gains but just not as much as replacing everything with 2.5" It's really up to you what you want to do.
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mydecember1985
Working from back to front on this one, I guess you could say. I'm in the proccess of scraping(currently have about 200-250 I'm willing to part with.) to get a cattman "y"; uncertain as to what company "B" I might try. Which do you think should come first, Y, or B???

And does anyone know how much Cattman charges for shipping?

Thinkin bout putting my Xbx up for sale with like 20 games. Couple of playstation games. parting out my AMD 3400 Computer. Lost my XP CD, so whats the point of spending 100+ bucks to reinstall a fairly outdated computer. Ram alone markets for 170+ new. Or, I might even sell my system (just subs and amp). Its WAYYY too loud.(at least for me)
Get the y pipe first. Best bang for the buck.
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dr-rjp
I took my car to a muffler shop to get some estimates on replacing the cat, b-pipe, and muffler. The manager looked at the stock midpipe and said, "Actually, you would not have to replace the entire pipe: I can cut out the crimped elbow and part of the straight pipe and weld a mandrel bent section in it's place for $35."

Is this a bad idea, and why so?
Not really a bad idea, but pointless, as you would still be running the pu$$y stock diameter. Also, you would still have an ugly rusted tin crap b pipe instead of a smooth SS one.
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by i30ds
Not really a bad idea, but pointless, as you would still be running the pu$$y stock diameter. Also, you would still have an ugly rusted tin crap b pipe instead of a smooth SS one.
I would not be so hasty to poo-poo the stock diameter, because, contrary to popular opinion, narrower than stock may actually be better than wider.

Check out this link first b/f you throw any more stones:

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...exh/index.html

As for my rusted old pipe, I cannot afford to shell out two, hard-to-come-by C-notes for a pretty pipe that nobody will ever see (unless they crawl under the car) and that, guarantee notwithstanding, is doomed to rust out faster than an aluminized steel one for about 1/2 the price.

Where's the logic in that, Mr. Spock?
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dr-rjp
I would not be so hasty to poo-poo the stock diameter, because, contrary to popular opinion, narrower than stock may actually be better than wider.

Check out this link first b/f you throw any more stones:

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...exh/index.html
This is ridiculous... Narrower is better?!? No how, no way, what so ever. Bigger diameter= more flow. More flow= more power, period. That lame chevy article is using the tired old "back pressure needed" argument which has been discredited time after time on this forum. Not to mention it is irrelevant even if its premise were true, as in this situation, a 1/4'' diameter increase is not a large enough increase. And I don't know how you got the idea that even smaller than stock diameter may actually be better from this article.

Explain how time after time, dyno results are in the 5-8 hp range from upgrading from the 2 1/4'' piping to the 2 1/2'' piping on this section of the exhaust alone. Go into the boosted forum where members are getting extreme gains off of a 3'' piping. One would have to be a complete idiot to keep the stock exhaust in that situation, let alone go narrower than stock. By your reasoning, you should pay that muffler guy you were talking with to crimp your entire b pipe down so that it has a 1/4'' passage for the entire length. Put your car up on the dyno after that... I could use a good laugh.

Originally Posted by dr-rjp
...As for my rusted old pipe, I cannot afford to shell out two, hard-to-come-by C-notes for a pretty pipe that nobody will ever see (unless they crawl under the car) and that, guarantee notwithstanding, is doomed to rust out faster than an aluminized steel one for about 1/2 the price.

Where's the logic in that, Mr. Spock?
Doomed to rust out?!? Where are you getting your information from man? The pipe is made of stainless steel. Pretty hard to rust that out. I've owned my b pipe for longer than you've probably owned your car and the thing has no rust on it. Also, if you cannot afford $200 for a bipe, then why are we even having this conversation? If you have no money, then I guess you're stuck with the crappy tin stock pipe, now aren't you?

The logic is all there. You just have to accept it and move on.
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by i30ds
.. Also, if you cannot afford $200 for a bipe, then why are we even having this conversation?
Not sure what a "bipe," is...but at least I can speak English if we were...
Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:26 PM
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bipe= b pipe. My b pipe has already gone through 2 winters and still no rust on it; i can't say the same about the bolts though. BTW you can see the B pipe, the aftermarket ones are a bit bigger therefore hangs a little lower. You can't see much but its visible.
Old Oct 20, 2006 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dr-rjp
Not sure what a "bipe," is...but at least I can speak English if we were...
But lack deductive skills.

bipe= b pipe... you know, the pipe that is what this entire conversation is about... it's pretty obvious.

If you want to make posts like that, go hang out in the 4th gen forum, as this **** don't fly here.

I'd be careful if I were you, cause right now, I got an itch that only my ban stick can scratch.

BTW, your sig pic is too tall. Reduce it 325 pixels.
Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by i30ds
Get the y pipe first. Best bang for the buck.

I would have ordered it this next week, but some dumb fφckin redneck picked up my wallet at Outback tonight. I had 370-380 in my wallet, my debit and credit card, not to mention my license(which has my address on it) AND the spare courtesy key for my car.

I had my Soc. Security card in there, but LUCKILY, I took it out 3-4 days ago.

So needless to say, I'm bout ready to kick my cat across the living room, impale it on the wall, and use its endtrails to hang myself from the ceiling.

Sorry, but I'm pissed.



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