How hard it is to replace plastic body color door moulding?
Some IDIOT caused a GASH on my driver side door moulding. I guess if the moulding didn't take the hit, it would have been a nice ding. I can order the part from Southpoint, but does anyone know how hard/easy it is to remove the old one and put on the new one?
I was told it is just stuck on with the 3M tape, but would I have residue to clean off from the old piece before I put on the new one?
How does a pro make sure it is lined up perfectly straight? I cannot accept it if is even the slightest bit crooked.
Any help is appreciated.
I was told it is just stuck on with the 3M tape, but would I have residue to clean off from the old piece before I put on the new one?
How does a pro make sure it is lined up perfectly straight? I cannot accept it if is even the slightest bit crooked.
Any help is appreciated.
Originally posted by mdeal
Two clips on the ends (one on each door) supported by double-sided tape. The clip on the front door is closer to the side mirror. The clip on the rear door is closer to the rear wheel.
Two clips on the ends (one on each door) supported by double-sided tape. The clip on the front door is closer to the side mirror. The clip on the rear door is closer to the rear wheel.
THANKS!
I'm not sure about a channel. Can't you just measure from the bottom of the body to the bottom of the molding? You could make tiny pencil marks along the bottom of the current side molding, too, as an alignment mechanism.
I got my information from the ESM. It shows two clips and double-faced adhesive. This is for both parts of the molding: the part on the front door and the part on the back door each have one clip.
I got my information from the ESM. It shows two clips and double-faced adhesive. This is for both parts of the molding: the part on the front door and the part on the back door each have one clip.
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