my girlfriend just bought a 2000 gle automatic maxima and it feels ok at part throttle at low rpm's, but once it gets past about 3500 rpm's at part throttle or full it looses everything and it struggles to pull. when your getting on the highway and punch it or your trying to pass someone, it doesn't happen; it takes like 15 secounds to pull through 2nd gear. the throttle cable is adjusted properly, there are no vaccum leaks, I cant tell if it has to do with the 00VI not opening, but it seems worse than that. the motor has no leaks, sounds fine, the oil is clean it looks like it has been taken care of. it has 90,000 miles. anyone know of any common problems? thanks.

 

maf?

that's a common problem.

 

Take it to AutoZone and ask them to scan the ECU for trouble codes. They should do it for free. Then post which codes they were able to pull.

But from what you have told us aready, it does sound like it's the MAF.

 

Yeah, definitely sounds like a MAF problem. Upgrade to the more updated one. The part number is 22680-2Y001. Give a call to Dave B. (1-888-254-6060) and he'll hook you up. The part is around $85.00 or so. Once you swap out the old one, you'll definitely see the difference. Also, may have to get ECU re-programmed, too, once the new MAF is installed because it may decrease your fuel economy.

 

It is also common for the coil packs to fail on these cars. More than likely, this is a MAF problem, but after you take care of that, pop off the coil pack cover and look for a grey dot on the side of it. If no dot, plan on doing these as well.

 

like everyone has said,.. get a new MAF, the part number is there as MIXXMAX said,.. and for under 100$ u will be amazed at the difference,.. also,.. IMO you dont need the Recommend dealer reflash...g/l

 

Replacing the MAF is the way to go-
My 2000 was doing the same thing-
Would pull Hard until 3500 rpm-
Then it felt like I was pulling a Truck-

Replaced the MAF and had the ECU Re-Programmed,

and NOW

 

i'll give it a shot. no check engine light is on but i will see if i can pull something, I also have a mentor diag tool (like a snap on scanner, but better)... so they had a problem with the mas air sensor that came on these cars or what? I was thinking cat convertor, maf didn't even enter my brain, that is a result of tinkering with too many hondas. thats why i have you guys thanks for your thoughts.

 

When my MAF failed, I didnt get a Check Engine light. I just read the threads in here and knew that it needed to be replaced. THANK GOD FOR THE ORG..

 

I never got a Check Engine Light when my MAF went either. (I had the same situation, no pull over 3500 RPM) I just replaced it and it runs fine.

If you ask the dealer to check it out they will charge you $100. The MAF will cost you $100 and 20 min to put in. I thought it was at least worth a shot and it did the trick for me.

 

yup, 99% its the MAF, but since u just bought the car and dont really know when it had a full tune up id recoment that as well, plugs, coils, coolant flush etc. since u say it starts to lag at about 3500 id say there is a 1% chance it could the the swril valves (i think thats what opens at 3500) but its unlikly, try MAF first.

 

If its a cat you will usually smell rotten eggs/sulfer in the cabin especially if its been sitting cold. MAF i had no check engine lights when my MAF went either.

 

Its totally the MAF. Mine did the exact same thing. No SES light or anything, it just lost all pull after about 3000-3500 rpm. After my MAF got replaced, my friggin coils went bad too. Now I have that all taken care of its been reliable and accelerates perfectly.

 

IT'S THE MAF...the same exact thign is happenign to me right now. I have tried everything and the only solution left is to get a new maf here is a dirt cheap site. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22680-VQ30D....your maxima does have *****....they are just bruised right now.

 

Get it from Dave B...1-888-254-6060. It's a little cheaper...around $85.00. I said this in post #4.