Did a brake job on my '03 SE yesterday. Did pads and discs on both front and rears. Used new OEM discs, pads, spring clips & shims.

Fronts seem OK along with the fronts that I did the weekend before on my girlfriend's '02 GLE.

However, I suspect the rear brakes are dragging. Not enough to noticeably slow the car while coasting. However, I feel a bit of drag when the wheels are in the air while jacked up. Also, when my timing is right, I can essentially coast and downshift all the way from the highway to my parking spot without using my brakes. When I did that this morning I found the front discs cool, the left rear warm, and the right rear warmer. Not enough to burn my knuckle but almost too hot to hold comfortably against the disc.

Followed the shop manual to the letter, with brake grease at the points where the pads touch the spring clips, and on the back of the pads. All seemed to go well. Only thing unexpected was while pushing (turning) back the rear piston. Per shop manual, you turn it with a tool or pliers. I had a tool. While not tough to turn, it seemed just a bit more than the "gently" noted in the manual. Stiff enough that I suspect it would have been very difficult to do with needle nose pliers. I did carefully align the notches per the manual.

Have I missed something here? Do I need to do a rebuild on the rear calipers or buy new ones (or rebuilts)? I know with my old '92 Maxima, rear calipers had to be replaced every time I did the rear brakes. I had hoped Nissan had improved the design of these since then.

I know the emergency brake self adjusts. But I assume this is only to tighten it as the pad wears. I don't expect it to loosen. No problems with the e-brake components I can see. End of cable fit correctly on the end of the toggle or cam on the caliper. Spring on the caliper seems OK.

 

Sometimes the piston that clamps the Calipers freezes up back there - happened to me twice. Try checking out that part, and lubricate it if it is sticking.

 

Thanks Pitch Black.

I was wondering if the hard turning of the piston might be meaning that. However, I was leery about removing the rubber boot in the area. I did hit it with brake cleaner when I had the caliper open the second time.

How would I lubricate it? I assume the rubber boot would have to be taken (pried) off. Then do I just counter-clockwise turn to remove the piston? When I do, do dozens of little parts fall out or can I just hit with some brake cleaner, lube with brake grease, replace, and turn it back into position?

 

Woops, sorry not to be clear. There is a small horizontal piston on the caliper itself that sometimes sticks, so I dont think you need to remove the boot at all. I think one of the more mechanical guys on the forum would probably explain better how to grease it up, because one of my freinds did my brakes for me.

 

There are two slide pins on the caliper that have a boot over them. These two pins appear to slide freely.

What I'm concerned about is the caliper piston itself. It also has a rubber boot or seal around it. That's the part I'm leery of removing. Also the piston itself since if I get it out I'm not sure if it will go back in easily or if I end up with damaged O-rings or other seals farther back on the piston.

I'll have to go over the caliper rebuild section of the manual again tonight.