In the faq's there is a link to a website describing the "Skippynet method" of removing the knock sensor. Unfortunately the link is dead; does anyone have a copy of the page, or remember it well enough to explain it?

I've inferred that it involves using a 1/4" drive 12mm flex socket and 9" extension to crack the retaining bolt loose - is this correct; has anyone got specifics?

Thanks.

 

you can use any size ratchet. use a 12mm socket a universal joint and a very long extension. unplug the green plug (evap solenoid plug). no need to stick your hands down inside of there. it also helps to put a layer of tape (electrical or masking) on the inside of the socket to ensure that the bolt doesnt fall out of it once loose. when replacing just us a long screw driver or something similar to aid in lining up the bolt.

 

I do not have many post here but I do have the knock sensor removal as well as EVAP control Solenoid Valve removal pics here. Good luck, your fingers will need them. Search my posts..

 

I did search, but apparently not very well. Thanks for the replies. I'll go see if I can't break that thing out of there...

 

i have a 97 i30 and i FAILED my smog test in California... the only reason my car didnt pass was because of the OBDII error codes that were showing up... po325-knock sensor malfunction and p1447-EVAP Purge Flow.... i went to a mechanic and he told me it would be VERY expensive to fix this... i looked up the knock sensor price at AutoZone and they have it for 160... is there anyway I can do this myself, even with my limited knowledge of vehicles? and what is the EVAP Purge Flow thing about? I am totally lost on that one.. and can i maybe fix that myself too?

 

you can fix both of them yourself. and you can get the knock sensor from ebay for $64 shipped. will take you all of 30 min to install following the instructions above. as for the purge flow, go to phatg20.net. download the factory service manual for your year maxima. it is in the EC section page 330 (for the 1997 manual). it described the problem and explains various step by step instructions on how to fix it.

 

Can't help you with the EVAP, but - the thing about the knock sensor is that it's on the engine block, in the valley between cylinder banks, and very difficult to access without removing the entire intake manifold.

I bought my knock sensor off eBay for under $70. Nissan OEM part.

 

http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=10166

 

This is the EVAP. My name is Pretty White there:
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=5819

 

okay, after reading as much as i could about the p1447 code... im stil a little lost... most people get the codes for the vent control valve... my code is for the Purge Flow Monitoring.. does that mean anything else? or is that just another code that could mean 100 different problems?

i was looking up the error code a little more and read this

"P1447 CODE IN MAXIMA , SANTRA, AND ALL NISSAN CARS MEANS // - GAS FUMES FROM GAS TANK TO EVAP VALUE // LEAKING IN SHORT GAS IS LEAKING(FUMES) ... .. SO CHECK FOR CRACK RUBBER HOSES AND REPLACE THEM... CODE WILL GO AWAY...."

does this make sense or is it nonsense?

 

KNOCK SENSOR PROCEDURE for 95-99:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=500569

P1447... never got that one before. I wouldnt trust any source other than 1) Nissan Consult-II Scanner reading or 2) Motor AllData Manufacturer explanation... I'll even do you a favor and check it at school for you tomorrow, since we have access to AllData.

 

a 12mm swivel socket makes the job much easier. When I did it I found that a 12mm socket plus a u-joint was too tall and made the angle to acute to get any torque on the bolt.

 

that would be awesome if you could do that.. if i could get rid of that P1447 it would be a dream come true... and the knock sensor is in the mail and, thanks to the help of this site, i'm gonna do it on my own AND i'm saving 100 dollars on the part alone... thats not counting how much i'm saving on the labor...

this is probably the best thing to happen to me and my car...