So my 00vi is done and now my tranny shifts very hard and very quickly. Seems as tho the slower the car is going, the harder the shift is. If I push the car off the line it usually shifts better but if I go slow from a stop it shifts hard. What's the deal?

 

nobody has any thoughts? Figured drop resistor or problem with the rebuilt tranny. Not sure what it is really. Going in the shop tomorrow I hope.

 

Possibly just a coincidence to the swap...have it looked at

-matt

 

The tranny shifting smoother and/or slower the harder you push it is normal. The more power that goes through the transmission, the slower it is going to shift. That's why we do the DR mod.

My thoughts are still on the fact that it's rebuilt. I would have that tranny shop take a look at it again.

 

I want to know, too. Subscribing...

 

First W.A.G.

It could be a problem with the pressure regulation hydraulics in the tranny - when you open up a wire to the DR-mod resistor, you are forcing the tranny into high-pressure mode. If the rebuild has a problem, and the internal pressure is alway high, then the transmission will always shift too hard. That should be possible for the shop to verify...

 

In the shop now. Will know details soon.

 

Good luck....

 

OK so the problem is that I'm getting too many volts to the tps. How do I set the volts? I know I read it already but don't have that saved thread.

 

Look in the 4th gen how to's to adjust tps. Or check FSM/Haynes

 

So turning the tps will change volts right? Just like normal? I'm not sure if the volts are changed like that or not. I guess I'll figure it out tomorrow. Don't think it up and died do you?

 

you should use a voltimeter to adjust the tps. unscrew the 2 screws holding in the tps just enough so you can swivel it. i think the readings should be 0.5 ohm when closed and 4 ohms when fully opened. not sure, check the haynes manual it says in there.

 

yeah i've done that and apparently the reading is still wrong. It was directly on .5 and 4 ohms before.

 

ok ohms are still perfect. When I attach my multimeter to the tps I get no volt reading at all. I tried 1&2 and 2&3 but nothing at all shows. I was told by the tranny shop that I'm getting too many volts. TPS broken?

 

If the connectors arent on how are you gonna expect a voltage reading

 

Hey I'm following the instructions from the how to's. I'll have to try again.

 

Ok so after being an idiot and not testing the harness for volts, I checked again. 5 volts on the dot. So the tranny guy was wrong. Something is very wrong with this tranny and now nobody knows the problem. is going on?!! I'm going to test codes again tomorrow but the tranny guy said that it was only throwing a tps code.

 

Considering what it probably cost you to get that tranny rebuilt, perhaps an OBDII code reader would be a good idea... Then you would know.

Harbor Freight - $50 or less. Sears - $80 ( too much, but they've always got them). The newer ones tell you all sorts of stuff, and they come with a manual to explain what a code means.

I never leave home without one.

 

Well until I can get a scanner, what type of problem am I looking at? Seems os tho the extra vaccuum from the 00vi and pf tb are adding extra pressure to the tranny lines. Is that possible?

 

Maybe you don't have the vaccuum lines connected correctly?

 

do you have the dr mod??

 

No I dont have the dr mod. I wouldnt have this post if I had the dr mod. If the vaccuum lines were wrong the car wouldnt work at all right? What connection does the tranny have to the UIM vaccuum? IDK that stuff.

 

A broken dr will throw a code correct? I'm trying to think of every possible problem. My O/D light blinks when I turn on the car as well. Usually is a solid light then turns off. Now it blinks and turns off. Not sure if it is engaging either. Gas mileage has suffered tremendously as well. I'm almost on empty at approx 275 miles. Seems like some major problems. I'll update on code situation tomorrow but please let me know if you can think of anything that would cause this stuff. No problems before the swap...btw

 

ok so I got codes today.
p0100-maf sensor
p0325-ks
p0120-tps
p0440-evap
p1705-dealer code for tranny or something

I'm pretty upset since I have no idea where to go with this. KS is brand new which means I probably have a problem in the wire. I do not want to have to go back in there....
-MAF sensor is hooked up the way it was, only difference is the cone filter. Figured that could be throwing the code.
-TPS is set perfectly. .5 ohms and 4 ohms. 5 volts going to it. What the hell could be wrong with it?
-EVAP, I was told I just needed a new gas cap...but IDK
-The p1705 I figured the tranny shop would pick up but he didnt say anything.

Where do I go from here? I'm not sure how to fix all the issues.

 

With the way you described the tranny shifting jerkingly on slow shifts, plus that maf sensor code, I'd tell you it's the maf sensor throwing you problems like this. I remember Chris'sMax used to be telling me about this sort of problem, except it was on a 2000 Maxima.

-Peter-

 

Well all the codes are coming from working parts. Thats why I'm confused. KS is brand new, tps is set perfectly, and the MAF was fine before the swap. Why would they all throw codes at once? I'm guessing the ks wire is the problem for that. TPS, I have no idea about. It's not broken since I get perfect readings. MAF I havnt been able to check the voltage but once I check voltage from the harness and determine if its bad or not, will it realyl change all that much? What about the evap code? Is that really just the cap issue?

:btw: Idle is better now. Still at 1 but doesnt bounce like before. Cold start sucks, I need to hold the rpms at 1 until I shift into gear if the car has been sitting. Thats got to be another issue with the codes I'm facing. The tranny also doesnt want to rev over 3 rpms. No matter how hard I push the car off the line it will hit 3 (maybe 3.5) and shift. Won't rev up like before. Does that help narrow a problem?

 

First of all, if you were checking the TPS, you had to disconnect the harness from it which throughs a CEL. Did you remove your intake plumbing(ie. disconnect maf) to adjust the TPS? If so, even though the car was off, as long as you went to ACC the CEL will be tripped for MAF. Ive done it, so its not random thought.

 

Yes the harness was disconnected from the tps to check for voltage. I think I had the battery discounted after that but i dont remember. everything after the tb was disconnected to get to the tps screws. Maybe that was what threw the MAF code. So your idea is to reset and see what comes up? If they don't pop up again, what would be causing the tranny problem.

 

The symptom you described is exactly TPS. When I did my 00vi, we were adjusting the tps. car idled fine, etc.. then when we went for a drive. 1-2shift felt like if we got rear ended by a truck lol. and the tranny held the gears for longer. went back, adjust tps lil more, and perfect shifting after that. its the tps.

 

Well I appreciate the hands on experience. Not sure what to do since the tps is on the correct ohms and voltage. Should I just adjust,drive, adjust, drive, etc?

 

Do you have TWO Plugs on the TPS ?? One being the TPS and one being the WOT sensor.

If you do, please go out and purchase a Haynes Manual and a set of feeler gauges. Take the TB off the car and follow the directions that are in the Haynes manual for adjusting the TPS to spec. Comes out perfect if you do it right....it does take a bit of time to get it perfect.

If you have only ONE plug, then adjust for .5 ohms at idle and 4 ohms at WOT on a Warm TB

 

Yes, thats what I meant, reset ECU and then check codes again

 

I've set with feeler gauges. I'll try again and reset the ecu. I'll keep you posted.

 

Ok well I started adjusting tonight, couldnt get a lot of time, but I did adjust some and got some results. Tranny is still rough but it shifts at a higher rpm and is getting better. I used the feeler gauges again. With .012 gauge, what ohm should you be looking at? I set at .5 and the .016 shows no continuity but I still have that issue. Possibly another code causing the tranny issue still? or do I need to adjust the tps some more?

 

If you need some help, i can give you a hand looking at it

 

Anybody know? Should I set the ohms a little higher or what?

 

Ok I went back today to try to adjust the tps again. Now when I set the tps with a .012 gauge it reads .5 but still reads .5 when I put the .016 gauge in there. The tps changes drastically even when I touch it. Is the tps shot or what? I just can't get it to set right. I don't want to spend another hour trying to get it to set at the right ohm.

 

does your car still not rev over 3k? because that is classic maf symptoms. get the tps back to .012=.5 and .016=infinite, clear the codes and make sure they are cleared for sure then start it up and take it for a quick drive and check them again

 

car revs over 3 now. Shifts at 4-4.5 if I push. As I said before, I can't get the tps to set correctly. I'll try to do it again tomorrow after I run the car instead of just letting it warm up. Maybe that will help me set it. Codes will be cleared tomorrow then go from there.

 

Rechecked codes and now I only have the tranny code and the tps code. TPS code is....circuit a mulfunction I believe. What do I do with that?