Hey everyone I need some help. Car seems to fire just fine when its cold, however after it warms up and then I park some where, get back in a few minutes later and try to start it up, it just cranks and doesn't want to fire. I have to pump the gas pedal while trying to turn over to get it to fire most of the time. Also, if I let it try to turn over for more than five seconds sometimes I can get the CEL to trip, but all I get is 0101, I recently changed the CPS due to the fact that there was oil getting in to the wiring harness, but I just checked and the new sensor seems to be fine, no oil in the harness area. Any thoughts? I am going to change the fuel filter soon, although I am not sure this is it.

 

Nobody has any ideas/thoughts?? Could it be a fuel issue? It seemed to me at first that it acted up more when the fuel level in the car was low, but after more research it seems like its more a matter of if the car is warm or not. Could the fuel pump be on the outs?

 

ECTS. Cheap fix and it will most likely fix your problem

-matt

 

engine hard start when warm could consist of
1. air filter clogged
2. fuel not reaching the fuel injection system
3. corroded battery connections, especially ground
4. faulty coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor.

comming directly out of troubleshooting in the haynes manual. good luck.

 

Ok,
I changed my stillen filter back to the stock airbox,
cleaned that little sensor that sits in the side of the airbox (intake air temperature sensor?),
cleaned the throttle body really well (it was very dirty),
clean the corrosion off the battery terminals and added those anti-corrosion pads.

And now the car seems to start everytime even when warm, although it does take it a couple seconds to start each time. Any ideas where this hesitation might be coming from? Thanks everyone for all your help so far!!

I believe I changed my ECTS last year, could it be bad already?

 

Did you replace ECTS or not? What is your idle like on startup after sitting all night?

 

I replaced it last year, around 15k mi. ago.

Idle is higher now, on cold start up around 1500-1600 rpm, warm drops to 900-1000. Before changing intake and cleaning throttle body, etc, it was about 300 rpms lower in each scenario.

 

Cold idle sounds about right, warm should be about 600 or 700. Changing my ECTS solved my starting problems. My radiator fans were also always on, even when the engine was cold. Are yours?

 

way2fast95, did your 0101 code go away by itself? or do you still have the code?

 

I'm sorry for the newb question, but what's an ECTS? I think i'm ex[eriencing the same issue. My max starts after stting parked for 1/2hr but it takes much longer to crank.

 

ive had this problem for the past year now. this is what ive replaced
ects(engine coolant temp sensor)
cleaned iacv
pcv
battery
sparkplugs
added grounding kit
air filter

the only thing im thinking is either fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. I'll try regulator first cause its easier and cheaper. i'll keep ya posted

 

Papa, thanks for your post, please let us know what you find. I am still having the issue as well. I think your right as it has to be the fuel pump or pressure regulator, the only other thing I have suspicion about is possibly the coil packs, but I think it's a fuel issue, not a spark issue.

 

I also have this problem. Only on warm starts and only if the car sits for 30 minutes to an hour or so. Does perfectly fine if the car is warm and does not have to sit for very long. Battery is good and coolant temp. sensor was the first thing I checked. I have plenty of cranking power, just a delayed start and I have no CELs. I also think it is the fuel regulator or maybe fuel pump. If someone finds out the cause for this problem, please post a response. It seems that there are several people who may have the same problem.

 

has anybody replaced their ECTS yet? I'm wondering whether it solved the hard warm start issue.

 

Could just go ahead and change it. Only costs about $30 and it fixed all my starting/stalling out issues.

 

I will, it's too damn cold to work outside. But yeah, it's definetly worth a shot.

Here's one:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=290&ptset=A

 

Any updates? And yes I replaced my ECTS last year and am having the issue now. I can see the outside of the ECTS is still that bright shiny brass color so I doubt that is the issue here?

Papa, have you gotten around to replacing the regulator yet?

 

I wanted to, but the dang advance auto didn't have the ECTS in stock.

 

Any of you guys read this?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=452286

Sounds like a possibility, I had my tranny rebuilt last year, maybe they removed some of the grounds. I may try adding grounds to the starter and tranny before I change the fuel pressure regulator.

 

ow...that's really not what i get though. It just takes me a little bit longer to crank.

 

Ok, so I added the ground from starter to battery neg. terminal and from starter to tranny and it still is hard starting. Hard starts every time now regardless of fuel level or engine temp.

I am going to be receiving a new starter soon so I will change that and try it, if that doesn't do it, then I will check fuel pressure and see where that is at, and if that doesn't to it, then I will rewire the conenctions to my camshaft position sensor (since I still get the 0101 code every other hard start).

 

good luck, my CPS just went out on me yesterday; Lost power steering in the middle of the road, not kool! I hope to get a new CPS from the deal ASAP

 

Ok, so I changed my battery cables since they were shot and it seemed to solve the issue for a couple days, then it started with the hard starts again. So I pulled my starter and battery today and took them up to Autozone. Test showed my Bosch reman. starter was still good, however my battery had a bad cell, so I bought a new Duralast battery and installed it. However, I tried starting it twice so far and both were hard starts. I am about ready to go drive this car off a cliff. Any other advice? My starter has 8 teeth, maybe even though it tested good, I should change it any way to a new 10 tooth unit? What else could possibly cause hard starts when warm?

 

I upgraded my big 3 and the car starts up way better, and manages my bass way better.

 

What do you mean my big 3?

 

I tested the fuel pressure yesterday, but it reads fine as soon as you turn the key to the on position, so I think now I am going to check the plugs for any sign of a leaky injector and then proceed to change the starter to a 10 tooth unit and see if they does it.