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Codes P1105, P1130 and high idle in "P"

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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 06:20 AM
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Codes P1105, P1130 and high idle in "P"

I am trying to help a friend of mine with her Maxima, and she has these two codes. I cleared them with my OBDII scanner and they came back in about five miles of driving so they are coming back very quick. Her car is an automatic cali spec (I think its a 99). Once it has been driven for a while and she puts it in to park it idles up to a steady 3,000. What could be causing this? I am thinking the idle is related to these codes some how. Any ideas on the codes/idle? The car has been modified before, but was returned cose to stock before she bought it.
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 06:47 AM
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p1105 MAP/BARO Pressure Switch Solenoid Valve, p1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve.

first, ive never heard of a swirl control valve before so i cant help you there.

next, a bad MAP/BARO could cause a high idle. if you dont alread know, its the sensor thats right on the intake right at the front right of the engine bay(for 99s at least). if you want to test it (assuming you dont own a vacuum pump), you can use a volt meter on DC volts. with the engine idling it should be pulling about 16-20in.Hg which means the voltage should be between about 1-2 volts. now have someone pop it in N (ebrake on) and have them hold the throttle at a steady 2000rpm and test it again. voltage should be about 3-4 volts.

if you have a vacuum pump, or could borrow one(maybe autozone has them to rent, im not sure) the test would be much more accurate. here is a link to directions on how to test with a vaccuum pump:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8004f7cf.jsp
(scroll down to where it says 'testing a ford MAP sensor' and follow those steps. same thing for all cars just a different location. but instead of inserting the sensor into the DMM you have to backprobe the sensor and touch the testleads to it.)

and at the begining of the page it says you need to contact a weather station n find barometric pressure ect ect but that doesnt matter. just hook the vacuum pump up, pump it up to whatever in.Hg and test it with the engine running then use the chart on that page to see if the voltage is within spec.

good luck!


just realized there isnt really a good chart on that site to compare reading to so here is one:

vacuum (in.Hg)---Volts
.5 ---4.8
1.0 ---4.6
3.0 ---4.1
5.0 ---3.8
7.0 ---3.5
10.0 ---2.9
15.0 ---2.1
20.0 ---1.2

for every 5in.Hg you apply voltage should change about .7-1.0Volts
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 07:20 AM
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I am pretty sure I know where that sensor is. It says "boost" on it? Thanks for the write up on how to test it.
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 07:23 AM
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yep thats the one. and no problem!
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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It's sounds like it could your TPS, I had the same codes (with the TPS code) and problems, replaced it and it was fine. Don't put it off, your tranny will start slipping if you do, worst experience ever!
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 99grnmaxgxe
It's sounds like it could your TPS, I had the same codes (with the TPS code) and problems, replaced it and it was fine. Don't put it off, your tranny will start slipping if you do, worst experience ever!
Did you test your TPS at any point? I know this one is set right (.5 ohm closed, and 4 ohm wide open) but it could be crapped out I guess. The plug for prongs 4,5,6 was all broken off but the prongs were still there.
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cardana24
Did you test your TPS at any point? I know this one is set right (.5 ohm closed, and 4 ohm wide open) but it could be crapped out I guess. The plug for prongs 4,5,6 was all broken off but the prongs were still there.
I didn't check it because I knew it was crap due to all the symptoms the car was giving. Let me tell you when the TPS got changed, it felt as if I got a new car.
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