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fuel filter pita - HELP trying to replace

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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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fuel filter pita - HELP trying to replace

i'm in the garage frustrated. I have a chilton saying how to replace the fuel filter, but i'm not able to reach the 'in' hose clamp to unscrew.

jack up the car?
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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find someone with longer arms.
hop up and reach further.
tilt the fuel filter how ever possible to help
bend the screw driver as needed ( I did this to a flat head, its been the greatest help at times)
razor blade and cut the tub, try to only cut what has to be to prevent having to buy another tube.


you could try underneath too, I've never had to, but then again I have long assss arms, but you'l have axles, and crap in you way to block your vision.
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Just changed mine the other day. I have a pop charger intake so I found it easiest to just remove the whole intake back to the throttle body so I had more room to get at the fuel filter. Instead of trying to remove the hoses connected to the filter while on the car, I disconnected the hoses from the fuel lines and and took the filter with hoses still attached out and worked on it off the car. To put back, just do the reverse.
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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Did you take out the stock air intake yet? That should give you enough room to get it done.
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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Also, you can just pop it out of the bracket on the firewall and rotate it so the clamp is easier to get at.
Old Mar 13, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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Thanks for the advice...finally done. I think it was the stock fuel filter (I'm at 250k miles)...the bottom hose wasn't coming off, so I cut it off and it still had enough to put back on.

Glad that's over...I understand why people don't want to replace it themselves...lol.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 01:32 AM
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I just threw a 300zx tt filter on mine. Mine was stock as well, and I had just dumped a gallon of paint thinner in my tank. It was terrible when it came out with the gas.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mastercater7
............. and I had just dumped a gallon of paint thinner in my tank................
care to explain?
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:22 AM
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When is a good time to change Fuel Filter. is it after years or milage

Is it worth the hassle to change ? and what milage would be the time to change or age years. some of ours i'm sure there are some that are 10 years old.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cditto
Thanks for the advice...finally done. I think it was the stock fuel filter (I'm at 250k miles)...the bottom hose wasn't coming off, so I cut it off and it still had enough to put back on.

Glad that's over...I understand why people don't want to replace it themselves...lol.
thats funny i found it to be a piece of cake . you dont need long arms either all you have to do is pull it from the bracket and tilt the filter to get to the bottom screw. once you relieve enough pressure from the fuel hoses and lossen the screws the hoses pull right off. you shouldnt have to cut anything. after pulling the fuses for the fuel pump and let the car stall wait at least 10 min and start and let it stall again,this will assure most of the pressure is out.but were gloves you still get a guss of pressure and fuel coming out once you pull one side of the hose off the filter.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by hobokenkid
Is it worth the hassle to change ? and what milage would be the time to change or age years. some of ours i'm sure there are some that are 10 years old.
yes its worth it to change. you would want clean filtered fuel being used, or worse the filter get so clogged that is cant properly supply the amount of fuel needed.

It takes 5min-30mins to change, and is worth it and apart of proper maintenance for your car.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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I believe the fuel filter is supposed to be changed every 15k miles.

It's not that hard once you get used to doing it.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:08 AM
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lube it up before installation for the next time. makes it a breeze.


I still want to hear about the paint thinner though.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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in for the pain thinner story



300zx fuel filters will last 30K.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mastercater7
I just threw a 300zx tt filter on mine. Mine was stock as well, and I had just dumped a gallon of paint thinner in my tank. It was terrible when it came out with the gas.
dont tell me you did this!!!
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:02 AM
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the manual doesnt say anything about replacing the fuel filter every 15 or 30 k. would the 300 z filter fit in the bracket where the original fuel filter sits ?

i think nissan considers the fuel filter to be a non maintenance item because in the 5th gen that still uses the 3.0 they moved the fuel filter into the gas tank and thats like impossible to change
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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300zx will fit into the stock bracket, it will be close though.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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if i was to get a 300z filter, from what yeah of 300z would i ask the dealer$hit to give me a filter for?
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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any year post 1990. go with a 96 Turbo.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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wroom wroom, how much ?

PS: i just went over to my car andlooked at the fuel filter, there is a hose that winds from the bottom of it to the side, i unclamped that hose, then took out the filter from its bracket (i have ABS so only one hand fit in there but there is plenty of space for one hand to get really deep in there)

now i have not taken out the fuse to drain the fuel system i just wanted to get a feel for it, if i should change it myself. I think the best thing to do would be to deal with the bottom hose first, the pressure in the line kept me from flipping the filter over, but i am sure once the hose is empty i can flip it and unscrew the bottom hose first and the deal with the top hose.

Its just that damn second hose that winds close to the filter, its not letting me pull the filter out far enough to get to the screw on the bottom, how did u guys change yours ?
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Ok well, paint thinner (xylene) is actually 120 octane, which is more than jet fuel. There is a formula however, that you use with 91 or 93 octane gasoline. Say you put one gallon of xylene and two gallons of gas at a 93 octane rating, add the octanes together, and divide by however many gallons. so, 306 divided by 3 equals 102; meaning your new octane rating is 102. Basically it is homemade racing fuel. WAY better than that octane boost bull. A buddy of mine uses straight xylene in his quads haha. It was sweet while it lasted.
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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and yes i have a 96 300zx turbo filter
Old Mar 14, 2007 | 11:59 PM
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is there any difference between the stock filter that you noticed ? and how was the firewall bracket mounting accomplished ? i have abs and can only get one arm in there
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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eh, i didnt really pay attention. maybe 1 to .5 hp haha. and i just kinda shoved it. if it slips, bend it slightly
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mastercater7
Ok well, paint thinner (xylene) is actually 120 octane, which is more than jet fuel. There is a formula however, that you use with 91 or 93 octane gasoline. Say you put one gallon of xylene and two gallons of gas at a 93 octane rating, add the octanes together, and divide by however many gallons. so, 306 divided by 3 equals 102; meaning your new octane rating is 102. Basically it is homemade racing fuel. WAY better than that octane boost bull. A buddy of mine uses straight xylene in his quads haha. It was sweet while it lasted.
So you use something that will dissolve certain rubber components in your fuel system in order to pretend you have a race car? (not to mention I think your math is all wrong). If we can't use E85 safely, why would you think paint thinner is ok to use? ............Simply amazing.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 03:27 AM
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The 300zx filter wouldn't add any power... it's just larger and therefore has more filter material and will last longer. And your 'racing fuel' won't make your car run any better than regular old 93.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by andrei3333
PS: i just went over to my car andlooked at the fuel filter, there is a hose that winds from the bottom of it to the side, i unclamped that hose, then took out the filter from its bracket (i have ABS so only one hand fit in there but there is plenty of space for one hand to get really deep in there)

now i have not taken out the fuse to drain the fuel system i just wanted to get a feel for it, if i should change it myself. I think the best thing to do would be to deal with the bottom hose first, the pressure in the line kept me from flipping the filter over, but i am sure once the hose is empty i can flip it and unscrew the bottom hose first and the deal with the top hose.

Its just that damn second hose that winds close to the filter, its not letting me pull the filter out far enough to get to the screw on the bottom, how did u guys change yours ?
Coming from the guy who started the thread...this was the first time I've done this on a Maxima.

I removed the fuse, started it, let it die, tried to start a few times. Then removed the upper hose clamp and hose. Then took the filter out of the mounting bracket and wedged it down and towards the front of the car past the "big hose and 2 small hoses" and then was able to get the screw on the bottom clamp facing up to get to it.

If the hose hadn't been stuck on the filter (I tried Super lubricant, WD40, and regular muscle and it never budged), it would've been a quick replacement.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 06:18 AM
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glad you got it, I've noticed sometimes even after removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking, I still find pressure in the lines. If you let the car sit over night, and change the filter in the morning, there is zero fuel pressure, and I've found the filter comes off much easier.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
glad you got it, I've noticed sometimes even after removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking, I still find pressure in the lines. If you let the car sit over night, and change the filter in the morning, there is zero fuel pressure, and I've found the filter comes off much easier.
Interesting. I will try that next time. I've tried all the tricks for releasing fuel pressure and I always get a shower.

Dave
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Wassup2114
And your 'racing fuel' won't make your car run any better than regular old 93.
Oh really? so i just imagined the difference? your wrong. it makes your car faster.
Originally Posted by 2da mizzax
So you use something that will dissolve certain rubber components in your fuel system in order to pretend you have a race car? (not to mention I think your math is all wrong). If we can't use E85 safely, why would you think paint thinner is ok to use? ............Simply amazing.
The math is not wrong, one time did not hurt it, what about people who use racing fuel?..........Simply amazing.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mastercater7
Oh really? so i just imagined the difference? your wrong. it makes your car faster.
Wrong.

The math is not wrong, one time did not hurt it, what about people who use racing fuel?..........Simply amazing.
Your math is almost certainly wrong, (only 'almost' because I'm not a chem major and I don't know the correct answer off the top of my head).

People who use racing fuel are TUNED to take advantage of it.

Dave
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Wrong.



Your math is almost certainly wrong, (only 'almost' because I'm not a chem major and I don't know the correct answer off the top of my head).

People who use racing fuel are TUNED to take advantage of it.

Dave

Agreed...see here: http://www.idavette.net/hib/fuel/page2.htm

you’re a regular reader of the VetteNet mail list or visitor to the techie boards on the Corvette Action Center, you’ve heard of other do-it-yourself additives said to improve gasoline. Unfortunately, a lot of that is urban legend. The executive summary of “DIY race gas” is: mixing it can be dangerous. You sometimes loose performance. You don’t save money.

Some of these DIY additives are: aniline, benzene, toluene, xylene and propylene oxide. Forget the first two. Both are highly toxic. Aniline is absorbed through the skin and impairs your blood’s ability to carry oxygen. Handle aniline improperly and you die. Benzene is a carcinogen, so you’ll die after improperly handling it, too–it’ll just take longer. Their toxicity and that they are used in making drugs has aniline and benzene Federally-regulated and not available to the public.

The aromatic hydrocarbons (“aromatics”), toluene and xylene are octane improvers. Significant amounts of toluene and lesser amounts of xylene are already in pump and racing gasolines. Both are available from automotive paint suppliers. Both are mildly toxic. Work with them wearing chemical-resistant gloves and in a ventilated area. If there’s any question about ventilation, wear a respirator.

In California, law restricts aromatics to 35% of a gasoline blend. Elsewhere it may be as much as 40%. The effect additional toluene or xylene has on pump gas is unpredictable for two reasons: 1) the octane boosting ability of both is less effective on premium pump gases than on regular grade gas because of the aromatics premium gases already contain, 2) toluene and xylene have high octane ratings alone but may have lower octane when blended with other gasoline components and must be carefully tested when mixed with other gasoline components.

Toluene and xylene have specific gravities higher than pump gas so the more of them you add, the leaner you need to calibrate the engine’s air/fuel ratio. Once you calibrate for toluene- or xylene-spiked, DIY racing gas; don’t go back to running conventional gasoline until you recalibrate to a richer mixture or you’ll be burning pistons.

Both have less volatility, so engines burning gasolines laced with high concentrations of them can be more difficult to start when cold.
In addition to handling, mixing, calibration, drivability and performance problems associated with DIY race gas
, it has a lousy business model, too. A late-model Corvette with a medium-boost, aftermarket supercharger kit at the drag races on a warm day might need 97.2-oct. to keep the engine out of detonation. Toluene, used as a blending component, is 103.5-oct. To make 10-gal. of 97.2-oct., DIY race gas (1:1, 91-oct. unleaded and toluene) costs $42.80. Do it with 91 and 100 unleaded gasolines, you mix 3:7 for $32.05. Because a 1:1 mix of toluene and pump gas costs you performance and throttle response due to slow burn speed; not only is DIY race gas a lot more expensive, but it won’t perform as well, either.

The economics of xylene are worse than toluene. Xylene from industrial sources is “mixed-isomer” and has less octane boosting ability than toluene and a higher unit cost. The higher octane, single isomer varieties of xylene, typically obtained through science and laboratory supply businesses, are obscenely expensive, upwards of $100 per gallon.

Misunderstanding surrounds propylene oxide. Common uses for it are pesticide and fumigant. While the EPA lists it only as a “probable carcinogen,” ingesting propylene oxide will at least make you sick and can cause coma or death. Use care when handling it. Some racers are under the impression “P.O.” is an octane booster, but it is not. It is an oxygenate that works like nitrous oxide but not as well. “It will improve performance,” Wusz stated, “but the mixture must be richer to take advantage of that. PO is more effective than MTBE but less effective than nitrous. The downsides of PO are: 1) it attacks plastic and rubber parts in fuel systems and 2) its low, 95 deg. F boiling point gives it a tendency to easily escape from a blend leaving the DIY race gas blender with a gasoline which he thought contained a certain amount of PO, but in reality, may have retained far less of it. This makes tuning exceedingly difficult.”

Bottom line:
brewing your own race gas a foolish move for a lot of reasons. You’re better off buying it ready-made.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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Hey did anyone disconnect the battery when they did this job? just wondering
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by hobokenkid
Hey did anyone disconnect the battery when they did this job? just wondering
I did, but then again I was always taught to disconnect the negative terminal when working with a fuel system.



Originally Posted by mastercater7
Oh really? so i just imagined the difference? your wrong. it makes your car faster.

The math is not wrong, one time did not hurt it, what about people who use racing fuel?..........Simply amazing.
the real deal with using higher octane is that it basically takes more (time, pressure, temperature) to combust. SO, even though you are adding more potential chemical energy to the fuel, a naturally aspirated V6that is not operating on a high compression platform will not be able to utilize that benefit and will yield incomplete combustion... this can throw off your PCM's fuel trim adjustment by reading an excessively rich mixture off the upstream oxygen sensor (see: EFI systems), and thereby reducing the pulse width and amount of fuel that is already not fully combusting, resulting in a lean condition. A lean mixture burns hotter and is more likely to damage engine internals such as piston rings and valves. Not to mention the fact that it will melt your catalytic converter substrate by dumping excessive levels of hydrocarbons into you exhaust, or if you are straight piped, put your mouth on that tailpipe and take a deep breath. Its a good idea to beat race gas pump prices, but believe me, unless your max is running a turbo on 15+ psi, leave the damn "race gas" alone.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cditto
Coming from the guy who started the thread...this was the first time I've done this on a Maxima.

I removed the fuse, started it, let it die, tried to start a few times. Then removed the upper hose clamp and hose. Then took the filter out of the mounting bracket and wedged it down and towards the front of the car past the "big hose and 2 small hoses" and then was able to get the screw on the bottom clamp facing up to get to it.

If the hose hadn't been stuck on the filter (I tried Super lubricant, WD40, and regular muscle and it never budged), it would've been a quick replacement.
Thats an excellent idea, yeah i noticed the the bottom screw of the fuel filter is facing the opposite way when compared to the top screw, i THINK this is the way it was designed to be changed, does anyone who have a HAYENS or the factory manual (FSM?) can be kind enough to check the proper procedure and confirm this?

Originally Posted by MDeezy
glad you got it, I've noticed sometimes even after removing the fuel pump fuse and cranking, I still find pressure in the lines. If you let the car sit over night, and change the filter in the morning, there is zero fuel pressure, and I've found the filter comes off much easier.
This is also a great idea i never thought of before, i think after reading your responses guys im gona go ahead and try to replace it myself, and use the saved money for another maintenance item such as coolant, break fluid, struts or front breaks; which my car needs pretty soon.

PS: why disconnect the battery when the filter is not electronically hooked up to anything ?
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by andrei3333
PS: why disconnect the battery when the filter is not electronically hooked up to anything ?
Because you barely have to sneeze at a hot 12vdc wire to make a spark. NEVER EVER EXPOSE FUEL AROUND A HOT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. And in this case I mean hot as in with a battery connected.

Dave
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:53 AM
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because spark + gas = trouble.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by andrei3333
Thats an excellent idea, yeah i noticed the the bottom screw of the fuel filter is facing the opposite way when compared to the top screw, i THINK this is the way it was designed to be changed, does anyone who have a HAYENS or the factory manual (FSM?) can be kind enough to check the proper procedure and confirm this?
The Chilton manual I have is very basic instructions...remove from clamp, unscrew hoses, remove filter, reverse. They rarely give you "pointers' as to how to do this.

I tackled replacing my thermostat and coolant flush when I did the fuel filter as well, figured since I was already dirty I might as well. And you can see my thread on the brakes, I just replaced the pads all around and have a thread on it too.
Old Mar 24, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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Sorry to resurect an old thread but this is a good thread and i need some help:

i am about to drive to the dealer to get a fuel filter for my max (97), the stock max filter is $37 can + tax but a 96 300Z TT fuel filter is $32 + tax, so i am thinking to go with a 300z filter and forget about it.

Would the bigger filter change line resistance and affect fuel pump performance ?

how is the fitment and how much bigger is it actually ?
Old Mar 24, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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can some one help please, i cant get the hose off the top of the filter
it seems to have seized on it, and even if i do get it off it seems impossible to get to the bottom hose cause its probly seized too

i took off the evap hose and the iacv hose and got more room but my car has ABS and the metal lines are blocking my way
i can put one hand on the filter and another on the top hose, but its not coming off, it streches and looks like i can rip it, but its not coming off the nose of the filter
what should i do ? i dotn wanna cut anything away



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