What are the chances for the Valves to get bent when the timing is off?

I was getting help of a fellow member on my motor swap, and i dont remember if he set Cyl1 to TDC, but the timing chain and all was set to how its supposed to be.

We cranked the car, but it never turned on, so i figured the timing was wrong.
but now im thinking that there might be a chance that my valves are bent...
what are the chances?
Whats the best way to tell if they are or not?

Thanx....

 

anyone? can anyone answer this for me?

 

I don't think 3.5 bend valves because I had the same problem redid the timing like five times and now the car runs perfic

 

Wow, you have been having some serious trouble with that swap huh.. GL man

 

yeah....tell me about it....only if the timing was done right the first time, i wouldn't have to deal with this....

 

Fly me out and I'll fix it for you....

 

haha, seriously....how much is a plane ticket? haha.
anyways....Dan, thanx for all the help, but im hoping that my valves are not bent. i talked to many people on the org, i keep getting mixed feedbacks. some say no, and some say yes...

this is killing me....i really want to work on my car and finish it up, but i got hit with the Gout! what the heck is that! i cant even walk!

 

Sorry i didn't get back to you earlier.

What exactly was off? The cam sprockets relative to the crank, crank sprocket relative to the cams, or the cams sprockets relative to each other? And how many teeth were they off?

The timing would have to be REALLY off for the pistons to hit the valves. Like 3 links or more...

 

well the thing is, the guy that was helping me with the install, he did the swap on his car.... so what happened was, we set up the timing chain according to how its supposed to look like, but as far as i remember, i do not remember him setting Cyl1 at TDC.
i think he might have forgotten about that part....

 

You dont really need cyl1 to be at TDC. I've done my timing twice (swap, and then again after head gasket replacement) and as long as all the marks on the sprokets and colored links on the chain are line up like they are supposed to be, you wont have a problem with timing (assuming that the chain did not skip links during the initial crank, which is possible) Again good luck

 

well im guessing that even though the links are matched up, if its not set at tdc, i would guess that the timing would be off, if you asked me.
how often can the link skip a tooth? is there anything we can do to prevent that?

 

Not necessarily. If the links line up, the #1 cylinder has to be pretty close but not directly at TDC.
The FSM recommends priming the tensioner with oil to prevent this very thing. Removing the plunger and dipping the whole tensioner in oil is how i'd do it.

 

This is why you ALWAYS turn the engine over by hand, at least 720º, before you attempt to crank it.

 

so even if the links were matched up with the links, but Cyl1 was not at tdc, can this cause the car not to start up?

 

It's not likely to have all of the identified chain links matched up with the proper corresponding sprocket tooth and not be at or very close to #1 TDC.

Run a compression test.

 

that does make sense....well....all i can do is a compression test i guess....
im hoping everything will turn out ok though...

 

Wow. Keep us posted, I gotta get your new number dude.

 

So true. On my last swap I rotated the thing until the chain links had done 2 complete rotations. But priming the tensionner with oil is a good idea too.

 

If timing was off the cause can still start, you'll just run into other problems as a result of the timing being off.

There are more reasons why the car might not start besides timing. Have you check cam/crank sensors and tested with a multimeter and/or cleaned them?

Have you checked all grounds?

or better yet what exactly is the car doing?

 

well before doing the timing, the car was cranking and all, but would not turn on.
i checked one of the sparkplugs and there was spark so im guessing they are working, i checked all grounds, they all seemed ok.
all it does is crank crank, but never turned on.
-i havent checked the crank sensor, so i will be testing that out if car still not turns on..
-timing was redone, i will be finishing this up hopefully this week so i hope this really works. since the timing was not done to TDC the first time, i would guess that was the problem.

 

Timing being off won't bend valves.

You've only checked 1 sparkplugs for fire. That's not good enough because when your timing is off, it can keep sparking, but at the wrong orders. You'd have to check them all individually. Even if is off by 1 degree, it can cause certain cylinders to not get fire. That's my experience with timing after 5 motors over cam jobs.

-Peter-

 

Our motors are interference. If the timing is off enough the pistons will hit the valves. But it would REALLY have to be off for that to occur.

And yea...i'd suggested taking out the spark plugs and checking for cyclic spark in his original thread. Having spark isn't good enough if it's erratic.

 

do any of you guys know how its possible to test out an adjustable FPR?
im not sure if the one i got is working properly...
any methods?

 

how do you have it hooked up?

 

ok, this is how i have the fpr hooked up....

Fuel Rail-----T-----Fuel Filter
.......Adjustable FPR-----Return Line

One question.....there are to tubings that are the same exact size, and i dont know exactly which one is the return line for sure and dont know what the other one is.