If the plunger is pushed IN that is the high-rpm setting correct?

 

This isn't on your car in the sig, correct?

 

correct, not mine.

 

If you mean towards the firewall, then IIRC, yes it is.

 

yup, towards the firewall..... hummm, interesting. I hope your wrong, because if you're not that totally throws a curveball in the mix here....

 

Stuck open maybe?

 

edited/deleted

 

I need some assistance here. Any and all input is appreciated. After scanning through every thread with 00vi or vias in the title since like friggin '02, reading the '00 fsm, and browsing around tatanko and ceasers websites I've learned quite a bit, though I still am unsure of what is supposed to be done with the vacuum port directly above the vias selenoid connector. I beleive I've found some things wrong with the way his swap was done, he had the vacuum port that is supposed to be capped off running to the swirl valve selenoid port, though I don't think that matters. Also, he had the vacuum port above the vias selenoid connector capped off. Anyways, that's not what I'm concerned with, just minor questions/background info.

With the engine idling, the port that is supposed to be capped off capped off, and nothing connected to the port above the vias connector, the actuator is in the closed position (it WAS stuck open before, more on that in a second). When I manually energized the selenoid with car idling, the actuator would open the butterfly valve properly, the same thing would happen when I connected vacuum to the port above the connector. HOWEVER, when I removed vacuum from that port OR when I de-energized the selenoid, the actuator would usually still remain opened unless assisted by my finger, sometimes it would shut on it's own however it would do so very slowly and choppy. Anyways, this is just mostly for pertinent background info, clearly the butterfly valve gets stuck in the high rpm setting for some reason, which doesn't make much since because up-top is where this thing goes like a dog despite being up on all maintenance and compression tested with flying colors. So, obviously my next step was to remove the vias selenoid and actuator assembly to inspect the cup. Did that, and the cup is fine, it is solidly locked to the rod and has adaquate spring tension when rotated by hand. On the manifold. The butterfly valve assembly has about 1/2" play in and out, this seemed normal, duh, that's what the spring is for, but when I push it all the way in, there is still maybe an 1/8th inch play up and down, I'm sure this is why it likes to stick open (confirmation? play not normal?) but it still doesn't explain to me why even stuck open this car is a dog up top? Thanks for reading this, it's clearly long, but I didn't want to leave anything out, I'm stumped and need advice.

 

Have you cleaned everything well? If there's gunk buildup (EGR etc) or carbon etc it might just cause the PV to stick trying to rotate... or could also be the VIAS solenoid itself is dirty/weak spring in the plunger

 

done, still sticks open, when the vias selenoid and actuator assembly is removed from the IM it turns and springs great. what has me puzzled is this car doesn't go like it should up top.

Since the pv only rotates 90*, can someone confirm that if/when the cup was j/b welded awhile back that it wasn't installed 180* out. When installing the vias actuator (off position), the large round plastic tab on the butterfly rod must be positioned facing the front of the car.....

 

This sounds like the problem. I've seen some of these UIM's so horribly gunked up that it would make you puke.

 

the fuel filter and air filter weren't in the greatest shape, there is a night and day difference now in how well well it pulls after 5k now, about as strong as it's going to without some sort of afc and lighter rims imho, I geuss I was lyieng about it being up on maintenance, I pulled the fuel-filter and after cleaning it out and blowing through it, it was VERY restricted compared to the genuine nissan one w/10k on it that I put in, when you held it upside down fuel wouldn't even come out (dan, if your reading this, you got that for free since I am upgrading to a 300zx ff on my swapped car).

 

HOWEVER, I have seafoamed that biatch twice, and before that I cleaned everything out with brake cleaner as best I could yet the vias still sticks open, the car definitly doesn't take off like it should after 3k and obviously this is why. However I don't think it is nescascarrily a problem with the pv rod being gummed up or damaged. After I shut the car off, and manually open and close the vias lever a few times, as soon as the air bleeds out of the internal vacuum canister it begins to turn very smoothly and bounce back to closed just like it should. Thoughts, opinions, ideas anyone???

 

wow, thanks for the help guys, I figured it out on my own but still have a few questions.....OK, so here's the deal, the system functions completely normal until the car is up to operating temp (dan, ever noticed that your car is a complete beast for the first 5 minutes of the morning? that's why) once everything gets warm then it begins to stick. I also did some more thinking about this and reading in the fsm, once it is warm and the problem exists, the selenoid is leaking internally causing vacuum to be applied to the actuator. Can this be caused by anything other than a faulty selenoid? And is it possible that because the left nipple was plugged that this damaged the selenoid over time? And according to the fsm, the selenoid assembly must be replaced as a whole, is this correct? TIA

 

Curt tore apart the VIAS right down the individal solenoids, and the pics are on my website. At the very least, take a look and make sure that there is indeed a leak by taking it apart and looking. Then troubleshoot from there.

 

word, I missed some parts of your sight I geuss. I'll check out how they seal up. One last question, is the swirl valve interchangeable?

 

So did the swirl valve end up binding on this VI? Or was it something else? I think I know who's car you are working on and he was supposed to bring it back here but never did. We slapped that VI swap together working about 30 hours straight, so some things may not be in the right order. IIRC it was activating and it had high RPM power at the time but maybe the VI has failed over time.

 

You don't mean the swirl valves, do you? They are the little butterfly valves in the lower manifold. I'm guessing you mean the power rod in the upper manifold that switches high/low? If so, yes, they should all be the same part. I wouldn't see why not. If you need confirmation, call Dave B at South Point Nissan on Monday and he'll confirm it for you using part numbers.
Why did it take so long to "slap together" the swap? Took me less than 10 to do it properly by myself.

 

Im not the quickest at this stuff. Also alot of time was spent working on rusted hardware and we lost alot of time driving around for hours getting stuff from stores. There was alot of stuff I forgot that I could of done ahead of time. It took from Friday night to Saturday night to completely swap everything. That included the tear down, wiring, VI switch, 2K TB backing plate, cobbeling together misc. stuff, and trying to fix problems.

 

Ahh, makes more sense. I suppose if you include prep and driving, mine was more like 15 or 16.

 

I meant the unused selenoid for the swirl valve, I thought I remembered hearing of someone switching them, I'll be able to verify though. Much appreciation for everything you've done tatanko.

It's my understanding that the swirl valves have had the butterflys removed but the rods are still in place, this is correct right? I won't know the official cause until I do some more dissassembly down the road, but it is probably a faulty selenoid but possibly a leak. All of your work on the swap was definitly done very high quality, everything was assembled and sealed up properly and the injector and rpm wiring was soldered and wrapped very nicely. And I'm geussing you had to deal with dan being concerned throughout, though that's understandable considering the level his car is on. The swap must have been killer on your back! being a lowered car and all. When you were testing everything it may have been cold, or it may have been ok at the time, we'll never know, but when you were testing and setting the rpm switch I'm sure everything was ok at the time or you would have noticed it sticking when you were testing/setting the activation point. As far as the wrong ports being capped-who knows, if I'm not mistaken it has been looked at by ?possibly several? other people for the cold starting issue.........


........which was only resolved by the pathfinder tb adaptor with a direct iacv. Installing that turned out to involve those store runs and "cobbling togethor misc. stuff" that you mentioned.

 

Well those swirl valve bars were left in the lower manifold. I unbolted the butterfly plates and left the bars in place to keep it sealed. I DO NOT trust JB weld to do anything, let alone seal a lower manifold. To me the only way to do it right is to get someone to TIG weld those holes shut or find a lower without swirl valves. With the bars in there they just spin but have no effect on VI operation.

AFAIK the VI manifold I gave him worked (the one he bought had a lot of stuff broken off of it, so I gave him one of mine). There is specific stuff that needs to be capped on that VI manifold and it did work that night. My guess is the VIAS must have failed over time.

Cold start issues are caused by two things. One we no longer use the cold start coolant setup that the stock 4th gen TB has and two it’s exacerbated by the IACV being remotely mounted. Funny how the problems went away with that Pathy TB and IACV mounted close setup. IIRC that’s something Matty made and it’s a copy of Krismax’s original design. I have that 1st VI swap Krismax made, the one produced in 2004. Starting only needs a slight blip of throttle if the weather is really cold or if the car is low on fuel. Other than that it never has a cold start issue. Having his kit made it seem easy to do these, I forgot just how much work is involved with a project like this.

 

I have somewhat vague recollections of StephenMax posting a few years ago about how his power valve would stick because of gunk build-up, and a thorough cleaning solved the problem.
A couple of years ago when I sourced and resold several 00VI setups, and based upon Steve's experience, I completely disassembled the UIM's, including removing the power valve, in order to thoroughly clean all of the internals.

 

No problem
I need to do that sometime soon. I refuse to do that until I have a PCV catch can, though, because it is blowing WAY too much oil into my manifold.

 

wow!! at last the thread I was looking for... Al whole lot of info useful to get the troobleshoting more straight forward. thanks!!

 

Little OT. Tatanko....definetely get the catch can. Got mine installed and noticed that the car is not pulling timing back. I don't know how noticable it will feel on your car but I have the Technesquare ECU and can definetely feel it pulling back. Now it doesn't with the catch can.

Great info in this thread.

 

I've been meaning to post a follow up to this actually. The selenoids interchange for the most part, but the electrical connector for the vias sel. doesn't plug in to the swirl selenoid, unless you destroy the outer part of the connector, it's actually very easy to do though. Anyways, swapping selenoids and sealing up the two o-rings solved the problem, no more sticking when warm.

 

Hmm, don't know I may get one shortly, but it won't do me any good unless I pull everything off and clean out the grime that's built up since the swap. The lower manifold is still pretty much ok, but the upper manifold