Spoke with Marty the other day and he really didn't have much insight as to the power limits of the stock axles or his, just that they were stronger, search function was no help either I've got quite a few questions, feel free to chime in. I'd also like to hear from anyone who has broken an axle due to power levels on a non-lowered car.

Question #1:
3rd gear is much weaker than stock axles correct?

Question #2:
Anyone have any insight to the limits of stock axles, anyone have any insights to the limit's of raxles?

Question #3:
I'm a huge fan of reducing rotational mass, if I dissassemble a set of axles, throw them in a lathe, and have some material taken off, will I be the first or has anyone else lightened axles.

 

1. I don't know

2. Two of my axles broke, and this was from repeated abuse. Inside the boot is looked like chunky peanut butter, with all the metal bits. The stock axles are fine, but won't stand the test of time with repeated track launches and high temps. Raxles are (as I understand it), rebuilds of factory axles with stengthened innards and Amsoil grease. The DSM guys have been using them with great success. They're not racing axles, theyre just very high quality OEM replacements.

3. You could try that, but I wouldn't want to take a gamble on the strength of the axle. What I'd try is carbon fiber shafts. Now there you'd have a strong shaft that's a fraction of the weight.

 

The mass is so close to the center of rotation that you'd be hard-pressed to see any kind of benefit, IMO.

 

agreed. No real world benefit from turning down axles, only a better chance to break.

 

gotchya, I'll just stick with my plan to get an aluminum pp one of these days. Would still like to here from people regarding the strength limits of axles and raxles.

 

Considering guys are running 120-130mph through the traps launching on slicks and pulling 1.7 60' times with the stock axles without breaking them, and yet these same guys have broken 3rd and or 4th gear multiple times, it's safe to say 3rd gear and 4th gear are going to go way before an axle will. The guys breaking axles aren't doing it because they are overwhelming the torque capacity of the axles, it's something else.

I've never had a problem with a cheapo replacement axle personally. knock on wood. I don't really know anything about raxles other than that I hear they use higher quality grease (which I do not doubt) and that they cost about 3x as much as parts store axles. while I'm sure they are a higher quality rebuild than a cheapo parts store axle, until I start having repeated problems with parts store axles, I'll stick with them. if it ain't broke, don't fix it (literally in this case).

 

BTW, driveshaftshop used to have prototype maxima axles listed on their page, I don't see them anymore, but if you really feel you need better axles, you could contact them and see if they would still do them.

and +1 on the rotational weight of the axle being so close to the axis of rotation as to be a waste of your time to bother reducing it.

 

i bought a cardone axle off rockauto and it is much beefier than stock.

 

I messed up my axles twice in the old white automatic when we sprayed 100shot of nitrous (after a a couple dozen runs)... I'm not to familiar to why they broke.. all I know is that my mechanic showed me... my broken axle compared to a good one... big difference.

I've inquired at Raxles for both driver and passenger side axles: $249.99 plus shipping and (warranty somewhat)

I found some on ebay for $50ea (2yr or 24,000mile warranty) I plan on getting these for now... and later on... find a better alternative.

Raul
I found some