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3-wire vs. 4-wire Oxygen Sensors

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Old May 31, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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3-wire vs. 4-wire Oxygen Sensors

I'm a little peeved at the moment. I realize our cars use 3-wire heated oxygen sensors, and that's what I ordered. What I was sent was a 4-wire, though. Basically what I want to know is, can I use the 4-wire with the 4th wire not hooked up, or will it not function the same as if it were simply a 3-wire to begin with? For the life of me I can't find the answer anywhere on the .org or on Google or anything.
Old May 31, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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As far as i know, the wiring harness from the old one, can be spliced to work with the 4-wire, the catch is, you gotta know which wire connects to what wire. The 3-wire one is a direct oem replacement where it's plug & play.
Old May 31, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatanko
I'm a little peeved at the moment. I realize our cars use 3-wire heated oxygen sensors, and that's what I ordered. What I was sent was a 4-wire, though. Basically what I want to know is, can I use the 4-wire with the 4th wire not hooked up, or will it not function the same as if it were simply a 3-wire to begin with? For the life of me I can't find the answer anywhere on the .org or on Google or anything.

Where did your order from. I have to buy an o2 sensor soon too
Old May 31, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by heynow
As far as i know, the wiring harness from the old one, can be spliced to work with the 4-wire, the catch is, you gotta know which wire connects to what wire. The 3-wire one is a direct oem replacement where it's plug & play.
I have a dead OEM 3-wire sensor sitting right next to the new one. I'm using to make a plug-and-play harness for when I go to install it. I'll simply cut one wire from the old sensor/wiring at a time and splice it into the corresponding new one. Simple enough, eh? Then I just ignore the gray-colored 4th wire, right?
Originally Posted by WhiteA32
Where did your order from. I have to buy an o2 sensor soon too
eBay. I bought a universal one for like $22 shipped or something like that, GREAT deal.
Old May 31, 2007 | 06:51 PM
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Old May 31, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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Looks fine to me, dude. Just make sure that you tape that thing up real good, so that you won't have any broken connections.
Old May 31, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by heynow
Looks fine to me, dude. Just make sure that you tape that thing up real good, so that you won't have any broken connections.
Soldered and wrapped up tight
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 05:32 AM
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cross your fingers & give it a try
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 06:06 AM
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My experience with universal O2 sensors on imports is that it is a wast of time and money. Didn't a piece of paper come with the sensor to tell what each of the 4 wires are? Usually 2 wires that are the same color are the ground wires. You can connect both of them up to the one ground wire from your harness or you may be lucky enough to chose the correct one. My experience as an Automotive Technician is they don't last long so don't be surprised to see your light come back on in the future for an 02 code. I would suggest an OEM spec replacement and not a universal.
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:14 AM
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^^^ Oxygensensors.com $75. for me.
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nlmaxima
My experience with universal O2 sensors on imports is that it is a wast of time and money. Didn't a piece of paper come with the sensor to tell what each of the 4 wires are? Usually 2 wires that are the same color are the ground wires. You can connect both of them up to the one ground wire from your harness or you may be lucky enough to chose the correct one. My experience as an Automotive Technician is they don't last long so don't be surprised to see your light come back on in the future for an 02 code. I would suggest an OEM spec replacement and not a universal.
This is almost entirely for the sake of passing inspection (since I can't have the code and pass). I only paid like $20, too, so big deal. Also, I've looked at diagrams of how oxygen sensors work, and with 3-wire heated oxygen sensors the two white wires are the heating elements and the black is the "signal." The gray wire on the 4-wire is apparently a ground, and I think that is simply a choice made by the car manufacturer (which to use...3-wire vs. 4-wire). I think the addition of a 4th wire for a ground is just a different "type" of circuit setup for the signal.
Originally Posted by LILMAN
^^^ Oxygensensors.com $75. for me.
You can get OEM for cheaper than that.
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Quoted from a Miata header install web page:

Heated O2 sensors (requiring 3-wires) were designed to keep the sensing element heated to it's optimal temperature--the 4-wire sensor adds the benefit of a dedicated output signal ground wire (1 and 3-wire sensors use the exhaust system as the signal ground path).
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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4 wire = A32b

3 wire = A32a


IIRC.. But I don't see how the 4 wire would affect the early A32 guys, now try using a 3 wire on a later A32 and then you have a problem lol.

--------------------------------------------------------------------


EDIT: Nvm, good luck and thanks I learned something.
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatanko
This is almost entirely for the sake of passing inspection (since I can't have the code and pass). I only paid like $20, too, so big deal. Also, I've looked at diagrams of how oxygen sensors work, and with 3-wire heated oxygen sensors the two white wires are the heating elements and the black is the "signal." The gray wire on the 4-wire is apparently a ground, and I think that is simply a choice made by the car manufacturer (which to use...3-wire vs. 4-wire). I think the addition of a 4th wire for a ground is just a different "type" of circuit setup for the signal.

You can get OEM for cheaper than that.
Ignore the Grey ground, the heated element doesnt matter, it only completes a circuit so the only wire you have to worry about is the signal wire. Hope it works for you.
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nlmaxima
Ignore the Grey ground, the heated element doesnt matter, it only completes a circuit so the only wire you have to worry about is the signal wire. Hope it works for you.
Yeah, but the heated element, if not working properly, would set off the CEL and throw a code, wouldn't it? I need to get rid of the code/CEL to pass inspection, so that would defeat the point of me getting it. I could really care less about functionality, I've had this sensor dead for about 6 months now.
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