hello everyone,

im wondering on how i get the fron and rear sections of the stillen kit to stay on my car. do i screw it in? if so , how do you cover that up.
or
use that 3m double sided tape.

but what if i want it to sit flush with the car, not have a gap? i was wondering if anyone could help me out with that.
thanks

 

what i did is use the double sided tape on the sides and a rivet in the inner middle where u can't see it. DO NOT USE the crappy double sided tape that comes with the kit it wont hold!!! go to any hardware store and buy some out door double sided tape you will thank me later!!! and than just rivet the ends in the wheel wells or screws if u a easier removal

PS make sure u do it on a warm to hot day makes the kit MUCH easier to work with

 

the only thing I will disagree with is the rivet in the front. If you use a rivet you have to use a washer on the other side and its hard to do with the bumper on. Best bet is to get a long screw and put it in there...put it in the fog light area and you should be good to go.

 

What you could also do, if you have some Fiberglassing knowledge, is fiberglass a small piece of 18 or 20 gage steel to the inside of the bumper kit, and then have a shop use a "stud welder" to weld a threaded stud bolt to the metal. Its flush and no nuts or washers are needed on the bumper side. And if you have a hole or other mounting means on the stud side (suggest you plan where that would go) then you can bolt it wherever you want to the front underside. A nice rigid soution if you want to be sure it sits in place.

I was going to consider that lock-joint idea, like the kind they use in most office desk or home furniture DIY kits. Where you insert the ball joint bolt into the other panel and use the rotating thing to cinch it tight. No idea what that is called. Ive seen this idea used on the hood of a show car, but it was motorized from underneath. That way no pins were sticking out so nobody could open the hood unless they were allowed.

 

I dont think you can get fiberglass to stick to urethane and hold a piece of steel on.

 

yea, because i would like this to be as flush as possible, i mean the kits look good, but when they are all sticking out and not flush i think it looks kind of crapy. - something you would expect on a riced out honda or something.
my car is white so im going to have the kit painted black to match the black on the underside of my car anyway. so i hope i do it so it looks good.
thanks for the help

 

actually u don't have to if you use a washer if you use a little larger than needed so they pretty much create there own washer. now i don't mean overkill in size, but just a little bigger than needed and lord knows they worked great got me, if i remember they were the ones that came with the kit, had it on the kit now for year and a half and never had any problems with it. maybe i just got lucky or did it right? LOL

well you could always mold the kit on not hard just time consuming. otherwise it will stick out just a hair no matter what and although no one else will ever notice it if your like me you will know it is there

 

i did the same method and bout my own double sided tape
i riveted inside the wheel wells front and back for the front i riveted under the lip and two on the corners and the back i riveted the license plate area

 

You always take a chance to pull through the plastic with a rivet and no washer. To do it "right" would be to use a rivet washer on the other side...not saying yours doesn't work but that doesn't mean its "right"...just another way of doing it. If you were to hit something that put pressure on the kit it would indeed pull through the plastic on the back side because it just ***** up...not much to hold it there if pressure is applied.

 

the kit is not perfect...there will be some defects so you need to take that out prior to painting.

once you got it sitting right...(use 3M tape made for moulding...not that crap you buy from staples either)
- front lip
double side tape to hold it on the bumper and rivet/screw in at the wheel well behind the bumper. also screw it in at the flap where it sits on the stock bumper at the lower grill. your call if you want to rivet the corners around the fog light opening. need to counter sink the rivet and fill in the holes.

- side skirts
double side tape the entire length. screw it in at the wheel wells at the front and back.

- rear
double side tape the entire length. rivet/screw it in at the wheel wells and behind the license plate. your call if you want to use countersink rivets along the part where it sits on the bumper. this is recommended if you're going to mold the kit to the body.

to blend the kit into the car...use some duramix and mix it up and basically fill the gaps. sand and paint. the duramix can be pretty flexable but if you bend it it's going to crack and look like poo.

see i'm not the a-hole that you call me....after baning you you're still here.

 

^^^^^^^^

 

... im lost