Well my second trip to the track ended up with my oil pump going out. I was going to run the 12.9 index class on Sat-Sun so I went fri night to try and dial in the car. After a few runs I managed to slow it down to a 12.9 by getting the auto to shift at 5300.

On Sat my second run the auto stuck in 1st gear and I hit 8500 for a second or two and when I reached the end of the track I could hear the tinkling like it was a lifter rattling etc. By the time I reached the pits the oil light came on so I pretty much knew what it was because I don't burn oil.

I have a new engine coming tomorrow so I should be good to go this weekend. I have removed the cams, arp studs etc from the old engine so shouldn't take long to get it up and running.

I could have just bought a pump and taken the chance it would be ok but I did check the rod bearings and they are scored so not worth the risk.

 

That sucks, but at least its not a seasons worth of down time.

Do you have a guess at whats killing these pumps? is it the 8K+ rpm? Was your pump a rev up pump or just a normal 3.5L pump?

I ask because I'll have a 3L twin turbo setup in my s13, so I don't want to run into any oiling issues...

Edit- one last thought, is there a oil pressure sensor that triggers at 20-30psi? so that it gives you more warning then the stock idiot light.

~Alex

 

hey sorry to hear that! But wow man you move quick what a rebond. good luck with that

 

pics arent working?

 

pictures arent working for me either at this comp in my office. I'll see when i get home.

Sucks to hear Jim, any idea what caused the auto to stay stuck in gear and not shift?

 

Hmmm funny the pics aren't working they work ok from here. They are 800x600 maybe I made em too big.

It was a stock 3.5 pump.

I screwed up and left one of the manual switches on so it locked in 1st. Driver error, however I only had the rev limiter extended to 7000 so it really shouldn't have gone that high.

 

Sorry to hear bro.


As for the overrev, from my brief experience with the EU, unless you set an RPM site AFTER the point at which you'd like to set the rev-limit and set it to zero, the engine will continue to rev up indefinitely. For instance, if you want the rev cut to come in @ 7500, you should set the final RPM site to 7550 and set it to all zeros, otherwise the software will continue to interpolate the injector durations from 7500 to infinity.

Another way to ensure this doesn't happen is by setting the ignition cut @ 7000 RPM in the IGN tab. This option isn't cat-friendly, though.

Godspeed on the new motor.

 

I always set the second last one to around 5 and the last one to zero. However you got me thinking so I just went and checked my setup and you are right I was doing some cut and pasting and I had all of the points after the stock cut set to 16.5.

Lesson learned. The hard way.

 

yeah he's right I had to learned that when I first got my eu. I have mine set at 7200 and my last point is 7700 because to me if you set them too close they start to average together and ***** air fuel Mine will not rev higher than 7500

 

Yep that's the way to do it... ^^^



However... that ^^^ won't work, that tab is for the power shift and does not work like a normal limiter without a switch input hooked up.

 

Ahh ok. I remember reading something like that in your write-up. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Can you guys see those pics now?

 

nah the pics dont work for me either

 

no sir, cant see

 

Nope pics no workee Jim...

BTW..to whoever asked about the oil pressure sensor.. my plan of attack is to put a cut out switch on the pressure sensor. Once the car is running it'll be activated and if pressure drops below 7 psi it'll shut the engine off instantly. Hopefully that'll at least save the engine if I happen to blow the new rev-up pump somehow...

 

Thats a d@mn good idea right there. Cheap insurance. A few bucks on ^^ rather than ~$700 for a new motor.

 

Pics work fine for me. Sorry to hear about your oil pump.

 

Well at least we know the limit of the stock pump now. Seems to be able to support 7500 RPM reliably. Some have even taken it to taken it to 8000 RPM with no issues (krismax and a user on my350z whose name I'm forgetting). The revup is good to at least 8000 RPM reliably, from what I've seen.

 

Thanks Neal glad to see someone can see them.

I just finished putting the cams in the new engine as well as some ARP rod bolts. Just have to put the timing gear back on and the covers and I should have it running tomorrow.

Got a sweet engine less than 20k almost looks like new, it came at lunchtime so I have been working.

The first pics are how I got it, the last one is how it is now.

 

I'm pretty sure we can all see them now. Hehe...

 

Did you put the Rev up pump in??? Seems like the best way to go these days with the 3.5

Mike

 

He doesn't really need one keeping the rev-limit down to 7000 RPM.


And the revup thing has been around for a while now over on my350z. No one has messed with the FWD 3.5 internals until recently, though.

 

Cool I can see the pics now.

Jim are my eyes correct.. the casing held together just the gears exploded?


I plan on testing that theory shortly if possible...

 

Yup, I looked very carefully before removing it after seeing the pics of yours. No damage at all to the casing just the gears. Go figure, casing is aluminum and gears are steel, hard to believe it didn't at least crack it.

 

I think the problem is the gear strength, mainly at the thin points between each tooth, especially on the outer gear where there is a strong load.

 

Guys i dont know if cryo treating would be good for this application,but what do you think?

 

imo they need to be made of a stronger billet steel like aftermarket ones on the mustang doc motors, but for the price of that or even cryo wouldn't it still rival the price of a rev-up pump?

 

For $678 + shipping you can have an oil pump that's good to 10000 RPM.






And yes, I'm serious.

Ok maybe not 10000 RPM. But it's essentially the Nismo RB26 pump internals adapted to fit in a VQ.