New PB for the 4.5
New PB for the 4.5
I didn't win any money yesterday but I did manage to beat my old 12.489 @ 109.34 with a 12.480 @ 111.09. Not by much, almost a 1/100. I think there is a little more there I only got 3 runs in before it started raining and that was my last run. I was just bumping up the timing a bit at a time as well as the shift points. Currently using the 350Z intake manifold and with the variable cam timing it looks like its a clear winner over my old setup.
Originally Posted by Jime
I didn't win any money yesterday but I did manage to beat my old 12.489 @ 109.34 with a 12.480 @ 111.09. Not by much, almost a 1/100. I think there is a little more there I only got 3 runs in before it started raining and that was my last run. I was just bumping up the timing a bit at a time as well as the shift points. Currently using the 350Z intake manifold and with the variable cam timing it looks like its a clear winner over my old setup.
Originally Posted by Jime
I didn't win any money yesterday but I did manage to beat my old 12.489 @ 109.34 with a 12.480 @ 111.09. Not by much, almost a 1/100. I think there is a little more there I only got 3 runs in before it started raining and that was my last run. I was just bumping up the timing a bit at a time as well as the shift points. Currently using the 350Z intake manifold and with the variable cam timing it looks like its a clear winner over my old setup.
What RPM were you shifting at ??? Man, that's just outstanding.........
Originally Posted by grey99max
Outstanding! Way to keep the automatic "out front" !
What RPM were you shifting at ??? Man, that's just outstanding.........

What RPM were you shifting at ??? Man, that's just outstanding.........

Very nice runs, hard to believe no spray is involved especially considering your track record
Do you have spacers installed on this IM setup? Also I did notice you mentioned MAPs so would this mean you are running w/o a MAF?
Sorry if this is newbish Q's I am somewhat of a newb in this part of the org, not familiar with your setup. What is your exhaust setup with this and suspension?
Thanks
Do you have spacers installed on this IM setup? Also I did notice you mentioned MAPs so would this mean you are running w/o a MAF?
Sorry if this is newbish Q's I am somewhat of a newb in this part of the org, not familiar with your setup. What is your exhaust setup with this and suspension?
Thanks
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Good stuff Jim. What was the 60 ft?
Grey: you just wait until this stick-shift gets a 3.5 and then we'll see how things shake out...
Grey: you just wait until this stick-shift gets a 3.5 and then we'll see how things shake out...

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Nicer times as always.
Also,I know you've posted this before, but what Z33 collector are you using? Rev-up?
What does your CVTC curve look like?
What does your CVTC curve look like?
Here is the slip, the second one is against a Hemi Cuda with open headers etc, he was ahead all the way and I passed him less than 100 ft from the end. Not the fastest run but the most satisfying one. Especially since it was MOPAR day at the track.
I'm not using the 2-step because one of the classes I race in won't allow it and with an auto it has a delay before it kicks in so not really useful. However with the drive-by-wire setup the gas pedal sends a variable resistance to the ECU which then sends a signal to the throttle motor and opens it. So I have placed a resistor through a relay that only allows 30% throttle when the pedal is to the metal and as soon as I release the line-loc it goes to 100%. Works great. Even with my new dual piston brakes the car easily overpowers them so I have to have some method of line control for consistent r/t's.
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Grey: you just wait until this stick-shift gets a 3.5 and then we'll see how things shake out... 

I broke my 3.0 -again
-, so 3.5 gaskets and cam adapters are on order. Of course, I still run with the entire car and spare tire, and it's 3300 lbs on the line, so who knows...... Heck, I'm probably going to have to use an EU this time. .
The picture of the slip is not showing for me either. Jime the electronic wizardry you have going on with your car always astounds me. If something's not working how you want it, you just add a relay and a circuit and change how it works lol
Grey how do you keep breaking your motors?
Grey how do you keep breaking your motors?
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
The picture of the slip is not showing for me either. Jime the electronic wizardry you have going on with your car always astounds me. If something's not working how you want it, you just add a relay and a circuit and change how it works lol
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Grey how do you keep breaking your motors?
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Grey how do you keep breaking your motors?
Breaking them is easy - spray lots of nitrous, sprinkle liberally with 'stupid' - and Voila! it goes BOOM !
I melted valves out of the first two while learning how to spray a dual-shot of 150 combined. I chose to replace them with junkyard-dog motors instead of swapping heads. I wasn't sure I can do that. This last one took me all the way through last November with no problems - and the final 13.158 ET - when it was parked until I took it out July 11th. On the first pass, I launched fine, got into second and hit the second stage and ate a piston - well, put a hole in it. Made some neat smoke and bangs at the same time. Kinda like some of the PINKS episodes...
The #4 cylinder has a very oil-wet plug, and the rest are suddenly bone-white. The engine went very lean when I sprayed second-stage. I don't know why - yet. Fresh 103-octane race gas in the tank, old reliable M&Hs at 20 psi, and it launched very hard on the 75-shot.
The car has been sitting since then - family drama continues (had a new grandson today) but I had the car out on the on-ramps w/DRs mounted and sprayed it hard with no problems - except staying on the road. The headers helped with that.
I'm sure I have enough parts to build another 3.0, but the 3.5 looks like it's next in line...
Originally Posted by grey99max
Prep it? Prep what? New spark plugs and oil change is all they ever get...


Jim!....
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Dont forget seafoam. It will smoke out all the bad spirits from the motor and give you 10WHP throughout the powerband 
Jim!....

Jim!....

Seafoam, eh? Maybe that's why the last motor was puffing crankcase smoke........ not that darn nitrous stuff after all........
I've had some monumental foul-ups on the track, but no pictures or videos of any of them.
Originally Posted by STILLENGLE
Nice runs man now get a spray bottle then you would have a much faster max maybe in the 10 second range. now that would be sweet.

I think 10s are too optimistic. Its very hard to drop 1.5 seconds when you're already doing 12s, especially since he will have to retard timing for spray. I think this car will go mid 11's@118-120 on a 100 shot. 10's would probably take a 150-175 shot and a whole bunch of traction.
it hurts me to see these wonderful times and not being able to counter
Times are outstanding ,i miss racing . but iam out for the 07 season my car wont see the track at all . maybe not till late 08 season with a EU . need to get some stuff done in my life first.
by then i may have a long catching up to do
Times are outstanding ,i miss racing . but iam out for the 07 season my car wont see the track at all . maybe not till late 08 season with a EU . need to get some stuff done in my life first.
by then i may have a long catching up to do
Originally Posted by krismax
it hurts me to see these wonderful times and not being able to counter
Times are outstanding ,i miss racing . but iam out for the 07 season my car wont see the track at all . maybe not till late 08 season with a EU . need to get some stuff done in my life first.
by then i may have a long catching up to do
Times are outstanding ,i miss racing . but iam out for the 07 season my car wont see the track at all . maybe not till late 08 season with a EU . need to get some stuff done in my life first.
by then i may have a long catching up to do


Look I don't mean to be a jerk, but for how light your car is, being manual and a 3.5, it's never come close to tapping the full potential...

I can understand that other things in life take priority at times though.
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Yes indeed you will... 
Look I don't mean to be a jerk, but for how light your car is, being manual and a 3.5, it's never come close to tapping the full potential...
I can understand that other things in life take priority at times though.

Look I don't mean to be a jerk, but for how light your car is, being manual and a 3.5, it's never come close to tapping the full potential...

I can understand that other things in life take priority at times though.
I think it was Neal that said that modding never really stops, just temporary set off while you have no money.
And I gotta agree with that. If I had 20,000$ of disposable income right now I know DAMN well where most of it would go
Hi Jim, nice times, juice it already!!!
I now have a G35 5AT and was wanting to know more about the resistor mod on the throttle pedal you use with your line lock.
You have the resistor in parallel with the actual TPS signal wire so when its not activated the signal follows the path of least resistance through the OE wire and when its activated the relay interrupts the OE TPS signal wire so the signal has to go through the resistor? This way the relay would not actually ever cut the circuit and cause a CEL?
The resistor reduces voltage by a linear amount? So at 50% actual throttle position the ECU only sees 15% and at 100% throttle position the ECU sees 30%. What size resistor was required to get you to 30%?
Are you using a standard mechanical relay or something faster?
I assume that by using the line lock you dont have the issue where when the throttle pedal and brake pedal are pressed at the same time the ECU limits the throttle body opening and causes a loss of power on launch?
Does this launch you like a pseudo trans brake set up?
Does the 30% throttle position hold you right under the stall speed?
Thanks,
Matt
I now have a G35 5AT and was wanting to know more about the resistor mod on the throttle pedal you use with your line lock.
You have the resistor in parallel with the actual TPS signal wire so when its not activated the signal follows the path of least resistance through the OE wire and when its activated the relay interrupts the OE TPS signal wire so the signal has to go through the resistor? This way the relay would not actually ever cut the circuit and cause a CEL?
The resistor reduces voltage by a linear amount? So at 50% actual throttle position the ECU only sees 15% and at 100% throttle position the ECU sees 30%. What size resistor was required to get you to 30%?
Are you using a standard mechanical relay or something faster?
I assume that by using the line lock you dont have the issue where when the throttle pedal and brake pedal are pressed at the same time the ECU limits the throttle body opening and causes a loss of power on launch?
Does this launch you like a pseudo trans brake set up?
Does the 30% throttle position hold you right under the stall speed?
Thanks,
Matt
Originally Posted by MardiGrasMax
Hi Jim, nice times, juice it already!!!
I now have a G35 5AT and was wanting to know more about the resistor mod on the throttle pedal you use with your line lock.
You have the resistor in parallel with the actual TPS signal wire so when its not activated the signal follows the path of least resistance through the OE wire and when its activated the relay interrupts the OE TPS signal wire so the signal has to go through the resistor? This way the relay would not actually ever cut the circuit and cause a CEL?
The resistor reduces voltage by a linear amount? So at 50% actual throttle position the ECU only sees 15% and at 100% throttle position the ECU sees 30%. What size resistor was required to get you to 30%?
Are you using a standard mechanical relay or something faster?
I assume that by using the line lock you dont have the issue where when the throttle pedal and brake pedal are pressed at the same time the ECU limits the throttle body opening and causes a loss of power on launch?
Does this launch you like a pseudo trans brake set up?
Does the 30% throttle position hold you right under the stall speed?
Thanks,
Matt
I now have a G35 5AT and was wanting to know more about the resistor mod on the throttle pedal you use with your line lock.
You have the resistor in parallel with the actual TPS signal wire so when its not activated the signal follows the path of least resistance through the OE wire and when its activated the relay interrupts the OE TPS signal wire so the signal has to go through the resistor? This way the relay would not actually ever cut the circuit and cause a CEL?
The resistor reduces voltage by a linear amount? So at 50% actual throttle position the ECU only sees 15% and at 100% throttle position the ECU sees 30%. What size resistor was required to get you to 30%?
Are you using a standard mechanical relay or something faster?
I assume that by using the line lock you dont have the issue where when the throttle pedal and brake pedal are pressed at the same time the ECU limits the throttle body opening and causes a loss of power on launch?
Does this launch you like a pseudo trans brake set up?
Does the 30% throttle position hold you right under the stall speed?
Thanks,
Matt




