After changing the blown motor in my 95 auto, the darn thing wont start. It just keeps crankin. We tested that it does have spark I can hear the fuel pump and I think all the connections are hooked up. We have also changed both the crank sensors and the cam sensors. any ideas??

 

Any codes? Was the block surface that mates to the transmission bellhousing clean upon installation?

 

you have the 'fastest thunderbird in maryland' and you cant get a maxima started?

well hearing the fuel pump may not be sufficent, it could be flowing 10psi of fuel pressure into the system and it will not start. how did you test for spark? i would check at each coil. also thinking your connections are good isnt sufficent. double check them all. pull any codes that may be present in the ecm. check for compression. are you sure you set timing right?

basically everything im asking you would be the procedure for any engine no-start.

 

I not by any means a mechanic. My t-bird which I sold now was built by my mechanic. I did change the engine trans in the max but i just read the haynes manual, nothing special. The code that was in the computer was the crank reference sensor changed that. I didn set the timing at all though. I literally just put it back together filled it with fluid and tried to crank it.

 

Ahem.........................

 

That code can come up due to:

Bad sensor
Bad sensor harness
Inconsistent cranking speeds due to insufficient starter ground (aka dirty block/bellhousing mating surfaces)

There might be others but those are the ones that count.

No worries there. There was no timing to "set" in the first place.

 

I didnt clean the bell housing to motor surfaces I know for a fact. I dont have the 02s hooked up beacuse my exhaust is not either. and there is a plug on the rear left (section nearest the block) of the trans that has not been connected yet. could those be reasons

 

Nope. Does is really make that much of a difference or is that a Nissan thing? I think the car is pretty well grounded though.

 

Well... I built the T-Bird...

Im starting to wonder about the fuel pump myself. Its got spark. I checked it on one cylinder though.

He had a 0407 code. But sho-off told me that the code was there before the last engine locked up. We have replaced both crank position sensors (REF and POS) and the cam position sensor.

I had to spray WD40 down inside the cylinders because the engine would stop turning after one rotation (we were installing the converter bolts). We pulled the plugs to see if they were flooded. Heh, flooded with WD40 (dont worry, we didnt hydro-lock the engine). I told him to buy new plugs just in case. That didnt work either...

I heard the fuel pump prime, put couldnt hear whether or not it was running while we were cranking the engine. I will hook up my gauge and check the fuel pressure.

 

Yes it makes a big difference. The starter is grounded to the block through the bellhousing. If the block or transmission surfaces are dirty the ground is poor and the result will be inconsistent engine cranking RPM with subsequent hard starting.

Try running a wire from the frame to the starter with a ring terminal on both ends and run a starter mounting bolt bolt through it.

 

Hey...

Thanks for the tip but it cranks fine. It just wont fire up. It has spark, but I dont think it has fuel. But your idea just make me think of something. I can still use that ground...

 

You ignored the most important part of my post. The ground at this point is sufficient for cranking, but not for starting. Like I said, tiny variations in engine cranking RPM are enough to keep the car from starting if the mating surfaces are dirty enough, hence the need for an auxiliary ground path.

 

No I didnt. I began thinking. Thats why I ended my post with "I can still that ground..."

I didnt do ANY of the work on THIS car. Everything was done by sho-off. Im not really familiar with Nissans. Its not like Chevys and Fords where you ground at the block (iron in most cases) and thats it. I keep forgetting that the foreign car makers like to use aluminum blocks and such. Now that I think about it, the 4.6 Fords act like CRAP if the grounds arent "perfect". Those are aluminum also. So are the LS1, LS2, LS6 and the LS7. Hope I didnt lose you with all of the engine codes.

So... me saying that I can still use that ground meant that I can still use it to provide a better ground path than what it already has.

 

This was what threw me off. It would lead one (or anyone else) to believe that you thought my suggestion was irrelevant. If not, ok.

Not really sure what the VQ being aluminum has to do with anything as iron and aluminum are both excellent conductors. And I don't know of any modern OBD-II vehicle that doesn't get finicky when the grounds are poor. The injectors need to be grounded, the ignition coils need to be grounded, all the sensors as well, etc.

Either way, the starter ground has has no bearing on how the car runs once it starts so that's that.
Seriously?

 

yea nismology you dont know anything.

 

Just foolin wit ya... LOL! I get lost with the import engine codes though. I know VQ30, VQ35, 2JZ, 7M-GTE (???... Mk3 Supra) and such. Damned Hondas have TOO MANY!

 

Do yall want me to come up there and dazzle you with my infinite A32 wisdom?

Err...yea. If yall want a hand or someone else to **** around poking and prodding various things in the engine bay while acting like a typical hick, I'm your man. Sometimes I get lucky, just takes a fresh pair of eyes...

 

Wassup man!

I will holla at sho-off and see. Maybe then you can pick up that hoist.

 

yea that would be fine

 

Yea, didn't even think of that. ...Can I even fit that thing in my max?

EDIT: Give me a date/time/addy, I'll try to be there.

 

Clogged injectors due to sitting around for a while is not an uncommon occurance either in my experience. Checked each cylinder for fuel?

 

we didnt check each cylinder for fuel but i pulled off all the injectors manifold, coils, etc off the old motor which ran fine till it locked.

 

this sat 12pm does that work

 

I will be there unless Tony wants to work on the SHO this weekend.

 

I have to see whether or not I have to go back down to TN to see my PO (hopefully they'll put me on mail-in). If I don't, I'll be there...PM me the address.

 

Yea, I don't have to go down this weekend, so I'm free to come up there. Send me the address later. Turns out I won't need the hoist either, my VQ fixed itself No more BHG symptoms; no bubbling coolant, coolant loss, overheating, etc...hell, I don't know, but I'm sure not complaining. Now a new MAF and I'm good...

 

my PM button. let me show you it.

 

I will call you...

 

Thanx merlin and paul for coming down and helping out.


So know the problem is that the fuel pump primes the line but when we caranked it there was no fuel coming through the line. WTF. We replaced the fuel pump and took of the filter so thats not the problem.

 

You sure the line isn't kinked in the fuel tank? You sure it's still attached to the barb on the level sending unit? I've had the hose pop off of that barb on me. Don't ask how........

 

Yep, hose is fine and secured to the barb well. We can get it to prime every time the key is put to ignition, but while cranking the fuel pump does nothing, so the ECU isn't seeing a signal from the CKPS, which also explains no spark.

No problem, and hey I must've lost 20 pounds from that relentless sun.