whine from hood area (haha)
whine from hood area (haha)
Ok, I installed a new motor (out of a 95 into a 97) - 3.0 i know i should have gone 3.5 but the motor has very low miles. Anyway, after a few hundred miles a fairly loud whine appeared. I cannot pinpoint it. It drops when you blip the gas but then gets louder. It is too high pitched for a vacuum leak. Bad sensor somewhere maybe??? It seems to be coming from the drivers side of the block, near the top right (fpr area). If I play with the green sensor that is part of the fuel system (not sure what the sensor does but it has two vacuum lines coming out of one side and the other side has a two wire electrical connector) sometimes the whine goes away, but it could just be something in the area that i am hitting or maybe it just goes away on it's own?!?! When I did swap the fuel systems, though, there were a few minor differences between the two (95 and 97), such as one or two sensors and one metal fuel line so i used the fuel system off the 97 because of the 97 harness. The sound does go away intermittently (sometimes after a long drive it will not be there but in the morning when i start the car it is there). All lines are good since I replaced them when i did the motor. Anybody else run into this mysterious whine??? please help.
Also, I replaced my knock sensor bc it spit a bad code. Still have knock sensor circuit malfunction. Also have ignition system failure - misfire code. Could it have anything to do with the fact my VAFC II is hooked up to the knock sensor circuit??? I wired it according to Jime's wiring specs. Could be a related problem??? PLEASE HELP ME!!!
Also, I replaced my knock sensor bc it spit a bad code. Still have knock sensor circuit malfunction. Also have ignition system failure - misfire code. Could it have anything to do with the fact my VAFC II is hooked up to the knock sensor circuit??? I wired it according to Jime's wiring specs. Could be a related problem??? PLEASE HELP ME!!!
Is the car idleing rough? if so mayb a vac leak I dunno. I would check all blow by hoses going to the intake and vac lines-->u said that when u hit the gas it gets louder this is y I say intake, also make sure everything on intake inclu couplings are on correctly and tight-->good luck
not idling rough at all...this is why i dont think it is a vacuum leak. I will double check the lines in the back going to the egr though. I do remember those being a ***** to get to so it is possible that i didnt pull the clamps over the end. any suggestion on the knock sensor circuit malfunction??
Some people change the KS and still get a code, ck this link,
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=5868175
Check the harness on the KS, also make sure your plenumb is not leaking (see if the sound comes from there)
If u torqued the EGR I wouldn't b concerned unless u reused the old gaskets?--> chk from TB to air box or filter if u have a cone, also connecting hoses on plenumb.
Edit: u said it gets louder when u hit the gas so I'm guessing Intake related.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=5868175
Check the harness on the KS, also make sure your plenumb is not leaking (see if the sound comes from there)
If u torqued the EGR I wouldn't b concerned unless u reused the old gaskets?--> chk from TB to air box or filter if u have a cone, also connecting hoses on plenumb.
Edit: u said it gets louder when u hit the gas so I'm guessing Intake related.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
I like how in that entire thread, and in the stickies as well, it doesn't say one very important thing..............And from reading many posts here on the .org and especially the first page of posts in that thread.........
A knock sensor code DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN YOUR KNOCK SENSOR IS BAD!
It comes up when the resistance value exceeds the limit, and that can happen from 2 things. 1: a problem with the knock sensor or circuit, usually a melted or cracked knock sensor. 2: ACTUAL KNOCK!!! This can be caused by many many things, from tapping a wrench on the intake manifold while the car is running, to running 87 octane, and several other problems.
If you have a knock sensor code and run 93 confirm resistance specs first.
This should be added to the oh so great ks sticky post, it is something that is not widely known around here imho, even the fsm is vague about this, I did not know this until very recently and made a fool of myself because of it.
A knock sensor code DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN YOUR KNOCK SENSOR IS BAD!
It comes up when the resistance value exceeds the limit, and that can happen from 2 things. 1: a problem with the knock sensor or circuit, usually a melted or cracked knock sensor. 2: ACTUAL KNOCK!!! This can be caused by many many things, from tapping a wrench on the intake manifold while the car is running, to running 87 octane, and several other problems.
If you have a knock sensor code and run 93 confirm resistance specs first.
This should be added to the oh so great ks sticky post, it is something that is not widely known around here imho, even the fsm is vague about this, I did not know this until very recently and made a fool of myself because of it.
what about the possibility of a bad alternator (sorry for the noob post)
But I had a bad whining sound for a long time until it went, and went away after I replaced it, and I have seen other org members report the same problem/symptom.
Let us know what you find out!
But I had a bad whining sound for a long time until it went, and went away after I replaced it, and I have seen other org members report the same problem/symptom.
Let us know what you find out!
thanks for the input guys.
1.)no supercharger, even though i really really want one
2.)New gasket on egr when i swapped motor.
3.)i will check the torque specs on the ks (it seems to me that if i use the swivel socket extension that it will interfere with a proper torquing of the bolt???)
4.)I always run 93, from day one
5.)i swapped the alternator when i did the motor...the old one shorted out due to an unexplained oil spill in my basement/engine room (roommate is building a 91 se-r with a gti-r motor and spilled oil on it as he was pulling oil pan off)
I will not have any time to work on the car tomorrow but i have friday off so i will diagnose then. again, i thank you all for your input!
1.)no supercharger, even though i really really want one
2.)New gasket on egr when i swapped motor.
3.)i will check the torque specs on the ks (it seems to me that if i use the swivel socket extension that it will interfere with a proper torquing of the bolt???)
4.)I always run 93, from day one
5.)i swapped the alternator when i did the motor...the old one shorted out due to an unexplained oil spill in my basement/engine room (roommate is building a 91 se-r with a gti-r motor and spilled oil on it as he was pulling oil pan off)
I will not have any time to work on the car tomorrow but i have friday off so i will diagnose then. again, i thank you all for your input!
Originally Posted by D BLOCK
sorry to go off topic but where do you guys usually get your replacement engines? Also can i not post my own thread because i just signed up or what?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=516911
alot of guys use carpart.com for engines or parts--> it directs you to local and distant salvage yards with prices, used it today - local pick up and cheap price for what I wanted- good luck
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AaronL
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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Aug 8, 2020 10:31 AM




