I was considering headers but I spent some time thinking. I still may go that route... Currently on the car is only a cattman catback however the thermal intake spacers, test pipe and ypipe are on the way. I know the ypipes dont yield much power for the 5.5's but I figure if Im attempting 13s w/o headers then every little bit counts. Test pipe I got for the hell of it simply b/c its so cheap. Oh by the way I forgot to mention I have a JWT popcharger on...yes I know, it may do more harm than good.

Im an experienced driver but I just wanted to get everyones feedback on this. Parts should all be on within the next month and I figure its perfect timing to track the car...late September weather is great.

 

this is very possible...only issue is traction...the maxima is definitely capable of hitting 13s with the WHP to weight ratio it has....it's just our fwd layout doesn't give us the best launch that an AWD or RWD layout can give...

I say just practice the launch and just slam the **** out of every gear...that should definitely net you 13s...oh yeah reducing the tire pressure at the track will help wheelspin issues...

 

oh yeah those 6g maxima wheels aren't helping either....I'd say slap on your stockers for the track...or maybe borrow someone else's lighter wheels? just to be sure that you hit that 13

 

to be completely honest with you, I weighed the 6th gen rims with tires and they weighed roughly 2lbs more than my stock 17s with tires...not that much of a difference. Stock 5th gen rims are pretty heavy as well. Would it really matter?

Anything else, mods, I can do to ensure a 13? I would be really happy if I achieved a high 13 w/o headers...it would be a big accomplishment

 

Just take it to the track and find out. Take out some weight. My JWT POP has been good to me.

 

2lbs sound fishy to me...but if you say so, then its still counter productive...as far as I'm concerned, upping the rim diameter won't do you any good even if it's lighter...

example....if your 18 inch wheels/tires weigh 40lbs...and you have some stock 16 inch steel wheels/tires that weigh like 42lbs...you should opt for the 16s instead....

 

If you really want to hit 13s, you can try taking out your spare tire, jack, front pass seat and rear bench....I know the front pass isn't exactly light...I'd say in the 40lbs range? Spare tire is about 25-30lbs? The rear bench is pretty light if you ask me...

But if you are really shooting for 13's...I guess every little can count....so strip everything that you won't need...and hopefully you can shave a good 100lbs or so

 

hmm...any other mods that may help? I know udp's dont do much at all

 

Really? This came up in another thread somtime back and it seemed like more than a few people were on the side of running the bigger rims if the weight difference was close....perhaps as a bigger tire could help with traction issues? Ive been wondering this for awhile now. I just bought some 19's and while I didnt officially weigh them I did grab one stock rim/tire and one of the 19 and tire and the difference seemed fairly small but certainly the 19 was slightly heavier. Im going to Atco tomorrow night and was debating whether or not to put the stockers back on or run the 19's. Last time out I had the stockers and had traction issues and was figuring with the 19's I might get some of that back...sorry to kinda go OT but I imagine if the rim diameter played a substantial difference in E/T's it would relate to the OP's original question....could his traction issues be helped by the bigger tire?

 

Slicks and es motor mounts and lower control arm bushing should definately have you there.

 

I would like to go about it w/o major weight reduction like removing seats etc...def. the spare tire and floor mats.

 

Why not just go to the track and see what you run. Even if you 'think' you're a decent driver, odds are, if you've never tracked before, you wont run the times you think you will. Have you ever been to the track?

 

exactly. i have 6 or so runs with my car and im still running 14.4 @ 99.96 where as i have gone 14.3 @ 97 in the past before mods. get some practice. being a good driver will get you there but you need practice. i still suck

 

Same here...I only have I/E and I pulled a 14.9 my first outting at the track then I practiced some and ran another 14.9 but that was after missing 3rd gear so I know I am getting better but I still have a long ways.

 

I am going to the track. As stated earlier Im going in late september. I just wanted some advice/feedback till then.

 

Well, if the y-pipe is on its way, it would be quite a waste of $$$ to switch to headers so quickly thereafter.

 

ive never been to the track before, but im running cattman headers, ypipe, exhaust, test pipe, berk/apexi intake and nissanworks spacers, havent got it tuned yet

im also auto, should I be dissapointed if I dont run high 13's?

I feel like I would be especially after i saw my friend here in town that has a 5.5 6MT with a no-name intake & exhaust, and a warpspeed y-pipe meant for a 3.0 run a 13.9

 

since Im trying to accomplish this w.o headers should I get an a/f? Mods would be cattman catback, ypipe, test pipe, popcharger and intake spacers. Would an a/f controller help if anything?

 

it sure will...if you plan on getting an air fuel controller, might as well throw in a land rover MAF as well...and get it tuned altogether...

 

yes, get that thing a/f tuned. im taking mine on monday (ypipe,custom short ram, bored maf, ssim, test pipe). well see how much tuning a simple y-pipe actually needs (although the 75mm maf probly makes sure i need some adjustments). good luck man, i think with a tune and a driver mod youll be in the 13's. dont forget tires though, i think theyre second most important to driver.

 

Do you even have a stock baseline 1/4 mile yet?

 

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I def. wont switch to headers so soon...I may not even do it period. I wanna see how well this route goes first. Dasyears do you have a 5.5 as well? I have brand new proxes 4 so Im good with tires. I would be really curious to see your dyno report when you get it since we will probably have similiar mods. Good luck to you also.

 

Why would spend money on a y-pipe, and then switch to headers? The y-pipe alone will not be compatible with the headers(Cattman).

 

I dont plan on switching to headers (if I even do) till this time next year...till then I will have the ypipe. I know its not interchangable b/c the stock manifold and header manifolds are so different...

why spend the money? Like I said, I need every bit of power I can get if Im trying to break 13s w/o headers. It may be hard but I will post up my results when the time comes

 

You can definitely do it if you're a good driver, but whether or not you are remains to be seen until after you've been at the track a few times. You probably won't hit 13s your first time at the track. Some real tires would make it easier but it seems like you don't want to spend the money on DRs or slicks. A stock 5.5 gen could run 13s with slicks on it.

 

yea..I MAY get slicks for my oem 17"s..but I will know for sure after my run in september/october. I first want to see what these mods do for me. Im hoping for a low 14 second

 

forget it...

$350 for cattman ypipe + $60 install = $410
$240 for intake spacers + $120 install = $360

Total = $770..so roughly $800

I can get headers for that much plus 400 install..so $1200. For an extra $400 I may as well get headers. This way I know I can definitely hit 13s w/o having to worry about weight reduction and my heavy rims...

 

Headers will not guarantee 13s....traction is a big issue with 5.5's

I say just take it to the track and see where you baseline....just because you are an experienced driver on the street, doesn't mean you are an experienced driver at the track....remember, you are "timed" at the track...this guarantees if you are a good driver or not...whereas the streets, just because you raced this and that person, or what not...doesn't mean you are a good driver

 

The thing is, even if the weight is equal the larger rim has more weight farther from the center, and the farther from the center=more rotational mass, the stiffer sidewalls don't help either.

 

 

i got mine new for 175 (warpspeed) and installed myself in about 15 minutes for a total price of ....$175. but if you have the money for headers then you REALLY should go for that instead

 

I know you already ordered a y-pipe, but if money is a concern you could always run some 4th gen mani's........... Let the comments fly, but if you don't have dyno results stfu

 

Yea...that makes sense. Thanks bro.

 

ypipe WAS going to be ordered...

hotshot headers are on their way next week

Im REALLY looking for this to "up" my low-end since I do a lot of stop and go driving

 

low end is nice...but i think the real power comes after 4k

 

Most if not all power gains from headers are after 4k.

 

(+2). if you want torque, use a hacked stock airbox, then get a WBO2/vafc and tune your low throttle afr. or get emu and tune low throttle and advance low end timing

 

Low throttle AFR should always be dead on. I never touched mine and it's dead on (14.7 - 15.0) Aside from more displacement, CVTC map alteration, or roots type boost, LOW end is hard to come by.

Midrange is different as gains can bee seen from timing advance among other items.

 

mine was lingering sort of low (like 13.5-14) and i fixed it with a -2 at 1300 and 1700, fixed for entire band...