First I drain the oil, then after it's drained I put the oil pan bolt on, hand tightened it and tightened it a little more with a wrench. Next replaced the oil filter, adding a plastic bag underneath it and putting a paper towel to make sure any excess oil won't get on any of the wires. Then added four quarts 5w-30 crastrol gtx and tightened the oil cap. Is hand tightening the oil filter and oil pan bolt on good enough? After everything was complete, I drove it maybe 5 minutes and while driving there was a little smell, that smelt like something was burning. Had to stop at the gas station to fill tires with air, and when I opened the hood there was a bit of smoke comming from the oil filter area, is this normal after every oil change? After checking that area, it didn't seem like that there was any oil on the wiring and the filter was still pretty secure. I'm pretty positive that any excess oil didn't get on any of the wiring after it was replaced. Will cleaning that area with a paper towel help at all? I'm a little afraid to drive it now because I think I messed up my car and thinking that if I do drive it again, something under the hood will catch on fire.

 

After my oil filter and oil pan screw are very finger tight. I always give them a few good turns (but don't strip it or anything; just tight enough to where they stop spinning with ease with the socket) with my socket and oil filter wrench.

The smell you were smelling was a little spilled oil from when you were pouring it in. It's just burning off the engine.

 

It's quite normal to get some oil on the exhaust system/y-pipe during an oil change,you cant catch it all. I personally just let it leak on the exhaust,then wipe it with a rag,it will still smoke a for a few minutes,but meh it's only oil so no worries..

The oil drain plug needs to be tightened to 29 ft/lbs,but "good-n-tight" with a WRENCH is good enough..I never tighten the filter with a filter wrench,i just snug it up good with my hand,i never have any problems with leakage..

 

Okay, after driving a little more today it starts smoking in the same area again. Only reason that it could be smoking is that the oil filter is still a little loose and its dripping a little bit of oil on the parts beneath. I even double, triple, and quadruple check the filter by hand tightening it some more and its still secured...maybe I'll use the filter wrench. How long is it suppose to smoke anyway? I'm really worried everytime I drive it now because there might be something wrong in the engine bay which will lead into a fire or the car might just break down somewhere.

 

Something aint right under there dude,jack it up/put it on jack stands and look around for the actual source of the leak.

Posting pics of the leak may help us identify what is wrong..

 

It just has to be some oil leakage because this is the first time it's done this. Oh yeah I forgot to mention, before putting in the new filter I lubed the gasket with some fresh oil. Maybe thats the problem? Or maybe the smoke is meant to let me know not to do any further oil changes or anything else to the car

 

Get under there and look around for an obvious problem...Extended oil smoke is NOT normal,it should have burned off already..

 

VG = oil filter installed upside down? Therefore when taking it off, it spills oil all over?

 

even a few drops of oil will smoke for several minutes once the exhaust warms up. it takes more than a few seconds to burn it off...

If it's a faint amount of smoke and smell, that's one thing- probably just some drips burning off. If you have smoke billowing out of the engine bay, then you have problems.

on your oil filter- ONLY TIGHTEN IT BY HAND. that's what they're designed for. run them up until they stop free spinning, then turn them about 1/2 to 3/4 turn. (it says right on the side of the filter).

they have very soft gaskets and thread onto aluminum parts. running it in with a wrench can pinch or deform the gasket and make it leak. at worst, it can cause the threads to strip and then you get to buy a new oil pickup/pump/whatever assembly for severla hundred bucks. and they're NOT fun to change.

The other issue that happens quite often (more so on hondas and toyotas, but I've seen it on Nissan filters as well) is that the old gasket will stay stuck on the oil filter mount, so when you put the new filter on you have two gaskets. when you turn those down, they pinch and mash and start to leak. easy enough to fix..

my suggestion is to pull the filter off, check to make sure the gasket isn't damaged, check the filter mount and make sure there's not an old gasket stuck to it, then reinstall the filter with a light film of new oil on the gasket, just like you did before.

wipe up everything near the exhaust and above it with a clean rag and fire the car up. check for leaks and smoke after a few minutes.

 

..........

 

I hate that... I always get oil all over the wsp y-pipe and man does it smell bad for that first couple drives after a change..

 

Hah, I used to hate the angle of the VG Oil filter. I think VE oil changes are the easiest I've done on any car.

 

Get some brake cleaner and spray all around when the engine is cool. This should get rid os any residue. Then check for fresh leaks.

 

Well, it seems like the smoking has stopped, but I'll keep on checking it immediately after every drive. How are the VE engines fuel filter oil placement different?

 

Ignore the broken crossmember--- ve oil filter:

 

my old blazer was easier.
Pop hood
reach to the right
unscrew filter
screw on new filter

Filter change done.

I always loved that setup...

 

Power wash ,degrease your motor, so you can find oil leaks, "a clean engine is a happy engine"

 

Just hand tighten the filter to "snug" a.k.a: until it stops turning by hand. Check your rear valve cover which should be the red cover where you pore the oil into, see if its leaking oil around the entire cover. if its wet, you've found your problem.

 

power washing would probably cause more problems than it solved...

 

i've always been scared to powerwash my engine...could knock something off that's plugging a leak, damage electrical/sensitive components, etc.

 

pff, I've degreased (before/after changing gaskets) my engine with orange blast (while cars on) and then powerwash the crap out of it...just stay away from the alti and other electrical stuff, dont spray directly and you'll be fine

 

meh.. I've powerwashed my engines dozens of times.

be careful if you have a VG not to hose down the spark plug wire ends and the distributor, but you'll be okay otherwise.

 

i've seen more than a couple cracked heads/etc. due to people powerwashing a HOT engine with COOL water......and overseas when our HMMWV's injector pumps would malfunction due to heat (glass lined tubing expanding and causing a stuck return valve) some of the idiots would pour cold water ALL OVER The engine (that has been running all day in the 140degree heat, mind you) and fek em up....nice warpage and crackage.

do we not have to worry about that on ours, or what? (VE or VG)

 

I'm pretty sure matt is refering to powerwashing a cold/cool engine(he probably has a powerwasher at home),not driving around town all day,then pulling into a self serve car wash and spraying down a hot engine..

 

Ive power washed several engines. All of them cold and off. Wait a few (15-20min) then start it up and warm it up. Might run rough but it'll clear up. Although after I got 8.5mm magstar wires it barely runs rough at all. And they were only $20 more expensive then cheap crap wires.

Don't spray the alt and dist directly and it works great. Ive used the foamy bright engine cleaner stuff with great results.

~Alex

 

I'm glad to hear that it seems to be safe to power wash a Max's engine. I had a bad experience with a previous vehicle I owned (different make/model) where my auto body guy cleaned the engine bay for me after he finished some body work. The car ran like absolute crap right after that, and while I knew it must have had something to do with the engine cleaning, I wasn't going to get anywhere running the fault on the body guy. A mechanic checked it out, and it seems that the water had gotten into some engine control circuits, which only put out little microvolts, so it didn't take much to affect it. He had to pull the connections, dry them by hand, and put em back.

Ever since that happened, I was scared to put any kind of water in an engine bay, whether it needed it or not. Guess the lesson here is, keep the water pressure down, and don't power wash another person's engine unless he asks you to first.

 

thank you sir. just powerwashed and degreased mine the other day. looks niiice.