I'm looking to get it from Autozone. There are two different versions. One with Tokico piston and the other one is Nabco piston. How can I tell which one I have? BTW, I don't have ABS.

 

Nabco and Tokico are two oem makers for Nissan for some time. They are "probably" the same thing but just made by two different makers.

Off hand, I would go with the Tokico one. Historically, I think they are the better brand. You could also look at your stocker and see if you can see the oem maker's name stamped on the outside of the master clyinder. Is yours leaking?

Also, don't have the brake upgrade? Might be a good time to look for a master cylinder that has a bigger piston. ie.. 300z, Q45, maybe the newer maximas since they mention having bigger brakes etc... just a thought.

 

No name stamped. Saw few numbers. NBxxxx. So maybe I have the Nabco one. I do have the Stillen big brakes. The stock master cylinder seems to do give enough pressure. The pedal is pretty firm and I don't think I want any firmer than it is. My master cylinder is shot. It was fine one day and then I went to bleed the brake system. I couldn't sustain pressure. Checked the brake booster and that seem fine. I would love to go with a bigger piston bore, but I have no idea what would fit. I'm pretty sure there will be some modification involove. ie..benting hard lines.

 

From the above statement, Are you sure you need a master cylinder? You blead the brakes or attempted to, then suddenly had no pressure. Sounds like you introduced air into the system somehow, or cracked a bleed port thus leaving you with a leak. I'd go over what you already did just to make sure the system is clean before you dish out $$$$ for the master cylinder.

The brake booster has nothing to do with pressure in your system, it assists in pedal movement. With the engine off, you will run out of vacuume in one or 2 pushes of the pedal, thus giving the pedal a very stiff feel. Start the car up again and you will get the vacuume back to the booster giving you that easy pedal once again.

 

Good point I should double check them again. I did check all the calipers and doesn't seem like anything is leaking. Doesn't hurt to double check.

 

1Max2NV,

hey man, if the booster was bad, you would be a hard pedal not a soft/low pedal. Check other parts of your system first. A way you could rule out each wheel would be to use vise grips on the rubber brake line..dont grab it hard tho, juss enough to block off fluid to that wheel. If pedal travel changes then you found the prob, if it doesnt keep checking...heeh

 

I ordered some speed bleeders to replace my bleeders just incase one of them has a hairline crack I didn't catch. I'll just replace them all. Found a Tokico stamped on the side of the master cylinder, so I'll just order the Tokico MC from AutoZone. It isn't too expensive. $64 + $40 core. I guess I'll be driving the beater around until all these parts come in by this weekend.

 

Hi fellas, Being that we are on the subject...I was wondering if a bad brake booster vacum hose would cause the brake pedal to travel more than usual? I myself had to replace my MC a while back and I also bled my brakes. Well my brakes don't feel solid, but yet again they didn't before either. Since then I have bled my brakes numerous times and still no improvement. Maybe replacing my pads will help.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

A bad brake booster vacuume hose, (leaking I assume) will cause excessive force to be needed to apply the brakes. Your not getting that help to depress the pedal if the booster isn't working. Also a leaking vacuum hose will give your engine "false air" and most likely cause your car to suddenly start to idle fast. Falst air is any air that is allowed to get into the intake after the throttle body. Daniel B. Martin has posted on "false air" a few times I believe.

 

Thanks for the responce. Is there a way to check and see if my brake booster hose is leaking?? Maybe a little spray of crc in that area
while the car is on.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

I just installed the Wilwood kit and I bleed all the calipers since I changed all the lines to stainless steel. My problem:

With the car on, my pedal is kinda mushy at first and travels halfway to the floor before I get a nice firm feeling. I rebleed the brakes and no signs of air bubbles. I'm wondering if air went up to the master cylinder or not. Others that have done the upgrade have stated that the pedal feel gets progressively firmer after being mushy at first. I'm wondering why this is. thanks