Automatic is hard shifting.
Automatic is hard shifting.
I'm aware that there is a thread on hard shifting already, but I think a hard shifting automatic would be a different matter.
The car shifts fine when I don't press the pedal down far, but when I gun it it shifts hard. Sometimes when it shifts it almost feels like I ran into something. I'm hoping that I don't need a new transmission.
Any thoughts on why this is happening?
The car shifts fine when I don't press the pedal down far, but when I gun it it shifts hard. Sometimes when it shifts it almost feels like I ran into something. I'm hoping that I don't need a new transmission.
Any thoughts on why this is happening?
I've seen this in a billion threads before. Us auto owners understand that manual owners are sorry. Get on with your lives.
So true.
Yeah, that sux. If it was a nissan dealship where the car's been serviced from day one, then it should be in good shape.
So then what again is your point in this thread? If you have nothing helpful to add, I really fail to see why you're participating in this particular thread.
In any case, to the OP:
Ideally, shifting 'hard' is good for the trans at WOT, less slippage of the clutches. Does it happen only above, say, 80% throttle? And everything 'normal' driving is fine?
If the drop resistor were bad, it would happen all of the time, not just at WOT. A TPS could cause that easily, it's happened to mine as well - a little below spec at idle that didn't affect anything, but just by being how it is, that below spec at idle meant below spec at WOT as well, which caused lots of weird behavior. It would run out most of a gear before shifting, shift hard, and not really want to downshift much.
In any case, to the OP:
Ideally, shifting 'hard' is good for the trans at WOT, less slippage of the clutches. Does it happen only above, say, 80% throttle? And everything 'normal' driving is fine?
If the drop resistor were bad, it would happen all of the time, not just at WOT. A TPS could cause that easily, it's happened to mine as well - a little below spec at idle that didn't affect anything, but just by being how it is, that below spec at idle meant below spec at WOT as well, which caused lots of weird behavior. It would run out most of a gear before shifting, shift hard, and not really want to downshift much.
[rant]I just wanted to say w00t for my automatic. Sorry, that was one of the qualifications for this car. I didn't get my Maxima to be a "4DSC" lol. It's my comfortable daily driver. My other 2 vehicles are manuals. Didn't want another.... so yeah, stfu with the hating on autos BS. Some of us have auto's for a reason.. and it's not like we're driving sports cars.. then u might have a valid point w/ ur ' Manual > Auto' bs.[/rant]
More than 90% of stick drivers would give that response. Please stop trolling in this thread.(But I do like your taste in color for your Max.)
As for all of you, thanks a lot I appreciate your input. If there are any other ideas post them here please.
Last edited by Divewjason; Oct 11, 2007 at 10:19 PM.
So then what again is your point in this thread? If you have nothing helpful to add, I really fail to see why you're participating in this particular thread.
In any case, to the OP:
Ideally, shifting 'hard' is good for the trans at WOT, less slippage of the clutches. Does it happen only above, say, 80% throttle? And everything 'normal' driving is fine?
If the drop resistor were bad, it would happen all of the time, not just at WOT. A TPS could cause that easily, it's happened to mine as well - a little below spec at idle that didn't affect anything, but just by being how it is, that below spec at idle meant below spec at WOT as well, which caused lots of weird behavior. It would run out most of a gear before shifting, shift hard, and not really want to downshift much.
In any case, to the OP:
Ideally, shifting 'hard' is good for the trans at WOT, less slippage of the clutches. Does it happen only above, say, 80% throttle? And everything 'normal' driving is fine?
If the drop resistor were bad, it would happen all of the time, not just at WOT. A TPS could cause that easily, it's happened to mine as well - a little below spec at idle that didn't affect anything, but just by being how it is, that below spec at idle meant below spec at WOT as well, which caused lots of weird behavior. It would run out most of a gear before shifting, shift hard, and not really want to downshift much.
That's very good to hear. Mine shifts normally unless I press down the pedal at about 80% or more.
Anywho I got off topic. I really am not sure about the history of my Max but I can see that it was taken to the shop some but it didn't specify anything but emissions.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
/thread
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
/stupidness in thread guys
I wouldn't bother with it, if it's functioning properly during normal driving. These maximas do not have the smoothest shifting automatics. If you're not sure about what fluid was used, perhaps it may be the wrong one. I would do multiple (4-5) regular drain and refills with a quality fluid like valvoline maxlife or buy fluid at the dealer (Nissan Matic-D). On a hot transmission, about 5 qts should drain out which is 50% of the total capacity. I would do 50 miles in between each drain and refill. After 5 drain and refills the majority of the old fluid should be diluted and there will be about 90% of new fluid in the transmission.
Flushing is not recommended at this mileage and with an unknown maintenance history. In this case, the simplest method works best.
Flushing is not recommended at this mileage and with an unknown maintenance history. In this case, the simplest method works best.
I wouldn't bother with it, if it's functioning properly during normal driving. These maximas do not have the smoothest shifting automatics. If you're not sure about what fluid was used, perhaps it may be the wrong one. I would do multiple (4-5) regular drain and refills with a quality fluid like valvoline maxlife or buy fluid at the dealer (Nissan Matic-D). On a hot transmission, about 5 qts should drain out which is 50% of the total capacity. I would do 50 miles in between each drain and refill. After 5 drain and refills the majority of the old fluid should be diluted and there will be about 90% of new fluid in the transmission.
Flushing is not recommended at this mileage and with an unknown maintenance history. In this case, the simplest method works best.
Flushing is not recommended at this mileage and with an unknown maintenance history. In this case, the simplest method works best.
First thing i noticed in the vehicle was that is has pretty hard shifts. How can you tell what is acceptable in terms ofshoft points and what is excessive?
First thing i noticed in the vehicle was that is has pretty hard shifts. How can you tell what is acceptable in terms of shift points and what is excessive?
We compared the 96 Maxima automatic (150,000 miles) It has much smoother shifts.
Another oddity; when you take your foot off the gas with the 96, rpms remain the same, but in the 97 when you take your foot off the gas the rpms drop about 600.
What do you think?
Last edited by trooplewis; Jan 26, 2009 at 10:37 PM.
Can you expound on this? I just got my son a 97 Maxima with 83,000. Automatic trans was replaced by dealer at 55,000 miles because of hard shifts.
First thing i noticed in the vehicle was that is has pretty hard shifts. How can you tell what is acceptable in terms ofshoft points and what is excessive?
First thing i noticed in the vehicle was that is has pretty hard shifts. How can you tell what is acceptable in terms ofshoft points and what is excessive?
The shift points on a properly functioning car are all listed in the FSM:

If it's shifting overly hard, follow all of the suggestions above in this 2 year old thread.
hard shift from 1st to 2nd occasionally
Not trying to steal the thread here but Instead of posting in a new thread... this seems close enough anyway.
I have a 95SE. AUTO trans.
My ride (occasionally) shifts a little rough when going from 1st to 2nd.
Any ideas/thoughts pertaining to this? I don't think it's a serious problem - it only happens occasionally, I'm just curious to see what anyone with some actual experience/knowledge/constructive - productive comments has to say. It's not that hard of a shift, just noticeable compared to any others.
Thanks in adv.
I have a 95SE. AUTO trans.
My ride (occasionally) shifts a little rough when going from 1st to 2nd.
Any ideas/thoughts pertaining to this? I don't think it's a serious problem - it only happens occasionally, I'm just curious to see what anyone with some actual experience/knowledge/constructive - productive comments has to say. It's not that hard of a shift, just noticeable compared to any others.
Thanks in adv.
Not trying to steal the thread here but Instead of posting in a new thread... this seems close enough anyway.
I have a 95SE. AUTO trans.
My ride (occasionally) shifts a little rough when going from 1st to 2nd.
Any ideas/thoughts pertaining to this? I don't think it's a serious problem - it only happens occasionally, I'm just curious to see what anyone with some actual experience/knowledge/constructive - productive comments has to say. It's not that hard of a shift, just noticeable compared to any others.
Thanks in adv.
I have a 95SE. AUTO trans.
My ride (occasionally) shifts a little rough when going from 1st to 2nd.
Any ideas/thoughts pertaining to this? I don't think it's a serious problem - it only happens occasionally, I'm just curious to see what anyone with some actual experience/knowledge/constructive - productive comments has to say. It's not that hard of a shift, just noticeable compared to any others.
Thanks in adv.
Hmm It is quite cold here so I suppose that could just be it. I can't recall it happening in the summer so.
Heading to bed, but I will take a look around the boards here for any other posts n threads on this perhaps using the lovely Search feature I have come to count on.
Thanks pmohr.
=)



