hey just wondering are there any specific problems/concerns i need to watch for when i go test drive a 4th gen i am looking at buying? it is a 96 with a manual transmission. thanks!

 

coilpacks tend to go bad realy quick i have been hearing.

 

things to check
clutch(ask when it was change)
transmission(does it shift smooth, and grind or annyoning sounds)
CV axles(make sure there's no tear in the boot)
a/c(make sure compressor turns on and cools evap.)
plugs and coil
water pump
leaking anything

 

ok thanks. any 4th gen specific problems?

 

just look close under the hood and under the car for leaks.

 

Probably a few more than this, however the radiator support, the lower in particular is prone to rusting out especially in snowy regions of country due to salt. Its behind the bumper and the front end has to come off to replace it if its unrepairable. My 1997 5 speed trans just went with 200k on it, I don't know if that is typical though. Usual stuff I've had to replace, CV's, calipers, rotors, etc. It's been a very good car overall as I was original owner. Check for unusual noises, leaks, steering etc.

 

and for gods sake the knock sensor

 

yea definetly check for rusting on the exhaust and undercarrage. that is a big expense.

couple of other random things to check:

1) try to bounce the car to see if the suspension is shot. try it 4 times, once for each wheel. the car should basically make one "rebound" and then sit back at normal level. if it bounces several times that is bad.

2) for automatics: cruise at about 20-30 mph and then hit the gas hard (dont blow the transmission). see how long it takes between the time you press the pedal and the time you feel the car picking up and shifting gears. if there is a big delay - and the car jerks almost - then that tranny is on its way out. also, sit in the drivers seat with the brakes depressed and switch from D to R to D to R and so on. listen for sounds and feel for drastic movement in the engine bay (the mounts).

3) open the engine bay and look as far and deep into it as you can with a flashlight (even if its daylight). check for large buildups of oil. this would be caused by a leaking valve cover gasket, which is a fairly common problem in our cars, but something you need to be aware of. you might also discover some other weird things. also check out the belts if you can (you may need a really strong light) and look for small cracks in the coating.

4) THIS IS IMPORTANT! put the car in the 2 spot of ignition (1 is electrical, 3 is ignition) and see if the Check Engine Light shows up. when the car is put in 2, all lights on the dash should illuminate. i cant tell you how many used maximas i have seen where owners/dealers just cut or crush the line to make it seem like there is nothing wrong...

5) do a carfax....also check all body panels for alignment. open the drivers and passengers front doors and look at the panel screws to see if they have ever been undone. also check under the hood for the OEM stickers and original paint color - make sure the factory stickers are there.

6) also, let the car sit at idle for about 20 mins. sometimes when a car hasnt been started in a while it will run silent and fine, but after everything gets warm it starts clacking and rumbling. after that period, look at the idle. make sure it is stable and not fluctuating.

7) check for uneven wear on the tires.

8) when you are driving it, cut the wheel all the way to either side and gas it slightly, if you hear clicking it is dry CV joints.

9) drive the car in reverse up to about 20 mph. listen for grinding or strange high pitched sounds.

10) open up the crankcase and look inside to see if there is a sludgy, thick residue on things. the oil should seem thin.

11) take out the tranny dipstick and look at the fluid. it should be red and clear for the most part. if its black or brown or smells burnt you WILL have a problem.


theres no rhyme or reason to this and you may already know half this stuff. these are just the things i have learned from buying a couple of bad used cars. hope it helps./

 

Check for "ghost codes", that is have a shop see if there are any codes that have been cleared by flashing the ecu, (such as the knock sensor, or oxygen sensor). Listen for any unusual sounds at highway speed, rear calipers getting stuck. And ask when the O2 sensors and evaporater canister were changed because on a 96 car they all should have been by now.

 

The coil packs on that model are actually tough units...it was the 99 and later years that gave more issues.

Use the radio in every mode and through every operation. Check that volume works and for loose buttons on the face.

The list from above is really good...

 

The radiator support should be the first thing you look at imho .

 

man how many times can this be asked?!

 

Until someone makes a sticky on what to check for...

 

thanks a lot... that is a really good list. yeah i would have searched more but i dont have time right now to. i will print that off and take it with me... the key thing for CEL i didnt know about... thanks! will have to make sure to check that... does any place do free code checks? minneapolis area...

 

any autozone.

most civil nissan dealerships will as well. i wouldnt go in through the front tho, just drive straight to the back garages where the techs work. if anything offer them a couple of bucks. maybe even offer them 10 or 20 to give the car a good once-over.