Lower ball joint replacement on control arm
once you get it unbolted hit the steering knuckle with a hammer and it should pop down (Assuming everything else holding the lower control arm is disconnected.
I know it sounds weird...but just do it trust me. Thats what I was advised when I couldnt get mine out and I went out there with my lil sledge hammer and it came out like a dream, I guess the jolt from the impact just pops it out somehow. Hit it in the area around where the ball joint sits in the knuckle...obviously.
I know it sounds weird...but just do it trust me. Thats what I was advised when I couldnt get mine out and I went out there with my lil sledge hammer and it came out like a dream, I guess the jolt from the impact just pops it out somehow. Hit it in the area around where the ball joint sits in the knuckle...obviously.
Did u already get the knuckle off of the ball joint? I think your just asking how to get it out of the control arm?
Well if that is the case. there is a snap ring around the ball joint right at the bottom. You need to remove that then set up a few blocks of wood to sit the control arm on with the ball join in between the blocks of wood and hit the living **** out of the ball joint. Yes it will come out if you hit it enough. It is pressed in there but it will come out this way. Then you will have to go get the new one pressed in though.
Well if that is the case. there is a snap ring around the ball joint right at the bottom. You need to remove that then set up a few blocks of wood to sit the control arm on with the ball join in between the blocks of wood and hit the living **** out of the ball joint. Yes it will come out if you hit it enough. It is pressed in there but it will come out this way. Then you will have to go get the new one pressed in though.
I rented a press from autozone to remove and install the ball joints. That's not a fun tool to use
My control arms were so dirty I didn't see that c-clip at first and I was trying to press the ball joint out with it still attached....using my impact wrench too...it finally broke the cclip and popped out. Moral of story is yes remove that c-clip.
My control arms were so dirty I didn't see that c-clip at first and I was trying to press the ball joint out with it still attached....using my impact wrench too...it finally broke the cclip and popped out. Moral of story is yes remove that c-clip.
hum...on my way to try the pickle fork method. btw, don't waste your money on the 6-ton hydraulic press from harbor freight, you can't fit crap in there!! talk about ingenuity, i've had to use a large bearing fork removal tool to press the new bearing in.
edit: thanks for the advice guys
edit: thanks for the advice guys
I recently replaced my LBJs, I must say it was quite a job. I wouldn't say it was tough, but if you didn't have the right tools, it could have gotten worse.
1) Rent the balljoint removal and installation tool from Autozone.
2) While you are there buy the snap ring pliers for snap ring installation and removal of the old ones on the ball joints. You will need the outer ring type pliers, there is the inner one and a outer ring pliers. Always remove the snap rings (C-clip) before hammering the balljoint with a hammer or using the press to get it out. The C-clip/snap rings are made of god sent steel and it is very hard.
3) Put the new ball joints in the freezer 3 hrs before doing the job, this will make the installation easier on the LCA.
4) You will have to get the tie rods out, steering knucle off the ball joints and then using the ball joint press do the removal and installation.
5) Do not use the pickle fork, it will destroy the tie rods/ball joints. There is a tool for rental from Autozone that pops them out without destroying them.
Good luck. Ping me if you get stuck.
1) Rent the balljoint removal and installation tool from Autozone.
2) While you are there buy the snap ring pliers for snap ring installation and removal of the old ones on the ball joints. You will need the outer ring type pliers, there is the inner one and a outer ring pliers. Always remove the snap rings (C-clip) before hammering the balljoint with a hammer or using the press to get it out. The C-clip/snap rings are made of god sent steel and it is very hard.
3) Put the new ball joints in the freezer 3 hrs before doing the job, this will make the installation easier on the LCA.
4) You will have to get the tie rods out, steering knucle off the ball joints and then using the ball joint press do the removal and installation.
5) Do not use the pickle fork, it will destroy the tie rods/ball joints. There is a tool for rental from Autozone that pops them out without destroying them.
Good luck. Ping me if you get stuck.
Last edited by Love_00_Max; Dec 15, 2007 at 12:36 PM.
AHHHASDFLKJASDLFKJA;SLKDFLK THIS STUPID THING WON'T COME OUT!!!
the crappy thing is... the ball joint is fine.. the boot's just torn. tried taking the boot off the new one but that won't even come off. I put PB blaster on the top and i don't even see a drop coming out from where the ball joint is under the lca.
I've been trying to use the ball joint press that I used to remove the tie rod and to get the knuckle off the ball joint in the first place. It's actually bending my LCA.
From the FSM, calling Nissan, it almost seems like the ball joint is part of the LCA.. can anybody verify this?
the crappy thing is... the ball joint is fine.. the boot's just torn. tried taking the boot off the new one but that won't even come off. I put PB blaster on the top and i don't even see a drop coming out from where the ball joint is under the lca.
I've been trying to use the ball joint press that I used to remove the tie rod and to get the knuckle off the ball joint in the first place. It's actually bending my LCA.
From the FSM, calling Nissan, it almost seems like the ball joint is part of the LCA.. can anybody verify this?
Last edited by talisman311; Dec 15, 2007 at 12:55 PM.
if you have removed the c-clip then it should come out with the press...assuming you have the parts of the press in there right.
the hardest part of using the press was making sure that the bottom part was sitting on the lower control arm and not the ball joint itself...so the ball joint can drop down and is not just being pressed from both sides..only the top.
the hardest part of using the press was making sure that the bottom part was sitting on the lower control arm and not the ball joint itself...so the ball joint can drop down and is not just being pressed from both sides..only the top.
ohh you havent removed the control arm from the car? lol.
your like a couple bolts away from that...might as well if its not too much trouble. they are big *** bolts but...i think it would make it alot easier.
your like a couple bolts away from that...might as well if its not too much trouble. they are big *** bolts but...i think it would make it alot easier.
Dude take the LCA off and set it up on some boards with the ball joint in between and hit the **** out of the ball joint. You are not going to get that thing off without taking off the LCA. Lone enough a new one back in that way.
If you go to nissan to get a new LCA you are gonna be bent over and raped. God them things are like $200. New ball joint $30. So I guess take your pick. Of course the new LCA comes with the ball joint but I would never pay that.
If you go to nissan to get a new LCA you are gonna be bent over and raped. God them things are like $200. New ball joint $30. So I guess take your pick. Of course the new LCA comes with the ball joint but I would never pay that.
SUCCESS, thanks everyone for your help. 8 hours later and I have a new ball joint in my LCA and wheel bearing. I don't want to do this ever again. I ended up taking my impact to the ball joint w/ a ball joint puller to pop it off. Wow.
Happy for u, the other side will be a breeze since you have done the learning part. Remember to replace them both, it took me 8hrs for both the sides, 5 hrs for the first, 2 hrs for the second and 1 hr for cleanup. After that 2 days for recovery for my back and legs from all the squating ...
well I have a 1998 infiniti i30T and tofday I put in lower control arms with ball joints both side used Moog parts and I also had link bar assembly also both sides on front, total labor cost $160 and what a difference in drive. Yeah cost a little to have work done but I watched these guys do work and well worth money.
well I have a 1998 infiniti i30T and tofday I put in lower control arms with ball joints both side used Moog parts and I also had link bar assembly also both sides on front, total labor cost $160 and what a difference in drive. Yeah cost a little to have work done but I watched these guys do work and well worth money.
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soon2ownmax
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i think i'll be ok, the only problem was just the torn boot and that was from the spindle leaning.
