Long story short, I dropped my crossmember and am trying to get the rear motor mount off (which is broken) so I can get at the exhaust manifold.

I'm not sure if broken motor mounts make it exponentially harder to get the top bolt apart, or if mine was just torqued to 400lb then left to rust for 15 years. I've tried everything (cleaning w/ wire brush, pb blaster for two days, map torch, wrench and hammer) the thing wont come off! The damn mount ended up catching fire the fourth time I tried to heat the outer nut.

I'm very tempted to just cut the bolt head off and call it a day. Not sure how much the bolts are from nissan though. I'm gonna have to buy two as I cut one of the lower mount bolts as well, which was stupidly put on facing the wrong direction so that you'd need to take off the control arm to get the bolt.. (and crossmember) out.

 

Cut it off, a bolt from Nissan is probably around 6 bucks.

A hardware store could be an option.

 

Just cut the bolt off,get a replacement from the dealer,or maybe a org member could send you a spare bolt/nut.

Edit: hi tim.

 

Hey bud

I quess I do have a spare.... PM me your info I can mail you one. Though you may not get it this week due to new years delays.

 

so you have the mutual answer.
cut it off.
with all the wrenching and banging on it as of now, its prolly best to replace anyway.
not to mention the rust.

 

Will do, thankyou everyone Hopefully I can get an aftermarket motor mount. Nissan wants about $190 if I recall. (you cant get many aftermarket SE parts in Canada)

I was in the Michigan last week and went to autozone for the first time, and was shocked to learn rear mounts were only $42. Unfortunatley they couldnt get it shipped to them in time before I went back home.

 

a few months ago, blootoof got his mounts poly filled.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=406941
that may be an option for you, but i don't know how much it'll cost...

 

Hey dude, I see you're having the same problem I was except it was with the mount below the master cylinder. I just got an air rotary tool and cut the bastard away. Used a similar bolt and problem solved. What you need to make sure is that you ARE loosening and not tighening, as dumb as it sounds...I've done it a few times.

You also say you've torched it with map gas... doesnt say how long you torched it for. try 10-15 minutes til it turns red...just finish burning that rubber off anyway so its out the way. Another option is going to a local shop and just ask em if they can loosen the 17mm bolt/nut for ya and just give em a couple bucks. Most shops have a minimum charge of 20 bucks here in Chicago but if they want your business later on they'll usually let something that small go.

 

I have poly motor mounts as well. I like them, but some people don't. I can tell you this... if you don't like shaking then don't do it. My car shakes a lot more than it used to before the poly mounts, but then again I switched every single bushing over to poly except some random bushings like the steering rack. All my suspension bushings are poly though, and while it's GREAT for handling, you have to question what YOU'D like your car to become before you do a poly conversion on something major like motor mounts... even a perfectly balanced engine like the VG will shake with them on. It's just a question of how much that bothers you.

 

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_0319.flv
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_0322.flv
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=IMG_0336.jpg
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=IMG_0343.jpg

i did mine shortly thereafter. sadly i messed up the mount on installation, since the broken mount had the engine sitting wrong at the time of installation.... i'd rather do all 4 at the same time anyhow so that will happen eventually. but it's about $80 worth of poly to do all four, and however much mapp gas and a torch head is. plus you need a piece of wood, 8x8x1" and a wood boring bit whose diameter i forgot. and duck tape.

 

hmm.. got it off. I'm probably just gonna do the passenger side front and rear ones right now as I cant afford to do the other ones as I just spent about $550 in parts/tools for my current endeavor. Im not too keen on making my own. Hopefully partsource or napa (in canada) will have aftermarket ones.

 

So the point of doing poly (I'm not sure I know what poly is or how you work with it) is to make the motor mount stiffer or to use the existing mount and kinda "rebuild it?"

 

you "rebuild" the mount. instead of having the oem style rubber, you replace it with a polyurethene compound. this stuff is more robust than rubber, but as traxtar944 you will probably feel more of the engine afterward. it stiffens up the drivetrain leading to less engine movement, and theoretically to better performance.

 

I keep seeing package deals on eBay for 4th gens with all the mounts for like $120 -$150 bucks. Never for the 3rd gen though. I really need a new front mount. Everytime I step on the gas it pops from the motor torquing up.

 

though one possible repercussion is more stress on the gears of a manual transmission, because the torque reversal has to fall entirely on the gears clutch springs, because there is no longer any motor movement to soak up some of the shock, ESPECIALLY in lower gears. rev up to 25mph in 1st, then lift completely. see what i mean? even in 2nd and a little in 3rd.

sometimes i lock my torque converter and shift manually on my a/t, so i feel these stresses too. Sadly i can't push the clutch so sometimes the shifts are kindof rough (especially 4-3 and a poorly timed 1-2... but i usually get the 1-2 pretty well)

 

While I haven't done my Max, I have polyied other vehicles. What I have found is that doing the front and rear mounts gives a huge increase in torque over resistance while doing the left and right mounts does little but increase transmitted vibration.

 

Damn motor mount. I seem to have turned myself into a vampire from working on the max. I took off my safety goggles too early as I was getting out from onder the car, and knocked some crap into my eye from the frame. I flushed it out, and everything seemed fine.

Then this morning, I noticed that whenever that eye is exposed to outdoor light, it hurts like hell. Its only UV light that seems to be bothering it.

 

Heh...welcome to working on cars dood..

 

Hey, I got a package deal on all 4 mounts for the 3rd gen from eBay a couple years ago. I've been wanting to replace my mounts, but have actually decided to fill the old ones with Polyurethane. So, I'd be willing to sell the new mounts I have for $120 plus shipping. Let me know if you are interested. I could pack them up and ship them as soon as tomorrow if you need them right away. I can take PayPal, etc...

-Mrkanda

 

I misread.

 

i think he means the new unused oem style, but he can correct me if im wrong...

 

Yah, that's what I mean. They are OEM style and are still new in box. I did get them from eBay, so I'm not sure how they compare to actual parts purchased from a dealership. But the price sure beats $150+ each. I am a little flexible on the price- just trying to cover the cost of what I got them for, but you can PM me with any questions/ offers.

As for the Poly mounts, I plan on finally digging into my car sometime this month and I got 80 durometer urethane to fill them with. I heard 94 is better for performance, but I want to maintain some semblance of comfort as well. Question: If I leave some or even most of the old rubber in the mounts while I pour poly around it and into the gaps, will that increase the level of comfort over gutting the rubber, or will there be integrity problems? Basically, I want the performance but don't want the ride to be too harsh.

 

I ran solid 94 and actually looking to making it more stiff .

 

I hated my poly mounts, everything shook and rattled as traxtar pointed out. Maybe something isnt quite right with my engine and made it rattle ??

 

I bet if the injectors were perfectly cleaned, IE sent out to a injector cleaning service it would idle decently smooth with the poly mounts. The poly is far less forgiving but if you have a smooth engine with poly that = great engine health. But thats WAYY to much hastle with the Fing VG fuel rail.

~Alex

 

Ahh damn! I would have taken you up on that, but I just ordered some off autozone this afternoon. 120 for just the front and rear.


damndamndamn

 

Hi, Smitty 124,
Been there. If you can get to the bolts securing the upper portion of the mount to the engine block and remove them, you can then worry about separating the motor mount components away from the confines of the engine bay. There are two 14mm bolts at the top of the upper mount, and one more near the bottom of the upper mount in the lower right position (as you face the back side of the engine block). Worst case scenario, you could lower the whole engine-transaxle assembly about six inches to gain better access, but it's a lot more work. Always support the engine safely while working underneath.
I find two twenty inch breaker bars with a socket on each works pretty good on the main motor mount bolt. Not easy while the mount is in the car though. If you have access to a hydraullic press, you may be interested to know that you can buy only the rubber motor mount insert without having the expense of a whole new motor mount. You can get the inserts at many parts houses.
Good Luck!

 

Dealership is actually around about 100 a piece. I have bought front and rear motor mounts from the dealership and they are just nearing or just alil over the hundred dollar mark but not more then that. and i know as i work at the Subaru dealership next to the Nissan dealership and am usually over there daily just about finding out prices on this or that for the 93 max.

 

I'm insulted :sulk:

 

Hmmmm....!!!!!! Sounds to me like you have to cancel that order and/or return them and then get all 4 mounts from me! I definitely can make it worth your while.

Let me know today and I can ship them out tomorrow.


For Goon: You said you used the 94D-Poly and want it even firmer. I assume you are referring to the performance gain. How is the vibration on your car compared to what the others are mentioning here? Do you think my idea with keeping some rubber and using 80D will work?

 

I hate rubber and think it only belongs on tires. The ONLY time I felt vibration was just when the starter was kicking the motor over. It eliminated wheel hop and the tires loved to break lose . The mounts didn't hold up well with sold poly. I'm working making the 'pin' bigger and have less poly to fill. If that makes sense... It will make the the already stiff mounts, 50% more stiff.

I spent alot of time getting the motor running smooth before I went to poly. So... I didn't get any constant vibration.

 

by pin, do you mean the inner metal sleeve?

 

Yes, totaly lost a term for it.

 

k. you know i was just slightly confused by "pin"...
have you any thoughts on enlargement?
I can think of a few:
1.) find a steel tube with the same id as the current OD, weld the two.
2.) machine a new with you choice of OD, or even shape. you may consider an advantage of a star-ish shape. idk, just sounded good in my head...?

 

I took a larger pipe and cut caps to weld betwean the pipe and sleeve. Interesting about the star idea, the closest thing I had along those lines were an octogon shape.

 

would there be an added benefit? like i said, it sounded like a good idea in my head, but i am unsure as if there would be any real benefits.
(and the reason i mentioned it is to avoid twisting. would that be a problem? I cannot think of why, but i threw it out there anywho...)

 

The shape From what I understand would only add more surface area for poly to adhere. Not to deal with twisting, there is little to No twisting in our mounts. The problem I had was the sleeve was SO small in a large mass of poly it would Smoosh the poly and break away from it.

 

how about wrapping the sleeve in electrical tape until it's as big as you want it.

 

electric tape will fall apart in a short time. of course since its sealed in polly, it may work.
if it would, the tape may be too soft for what he wants. I dont know a durometer number, but im sure its well below 80d. on the roll its pretty soft, softer than any skate wheels i used to use, and they ranged from 85-99d iirc... (its been almost 10 years since i skated)

edit, i just checked, and they seem to be 99a or 99a/101a
idk what a means...

 

Hmmm... sarcastic humor?
In line with that thought, how about finding a really large nut or nuts to thread onto the outside of the sleeve? That would give the poly a nice hexagonal shape to grab onto and would probably take up a lot of space, thus making the mount a lot firmer with just a little poly between it and the outside case of the mount.