3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994) Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.

motor mount from hell

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:08 AM
  #41  
Mack531's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 71
From: Redding, California
Originally Posted by goon9
I hate rubber and think it only belongs on tires. The ONLY time I felt vibration was just when the starter was kicking the motor over. It eliminated wheel hop and the tires loved to break lose . The mounts didn't hold up well with sold poly. I'm working making the 'pin' bigger and have less poly to fill. If that makes sense... It will make the the already stiff mounts, 50% more stiff.

I spent alot of time getting the motor running smooth before I went to poly. So... I didn't get any constant vibration.
goon9:
I have tried something similar on another car I have, (not my Maxima) with
a manual transaxle. I cut up a heavy mountain bike inner tube, trimmed it
into a long strip that I glued and wrapped around the central motor mount
tube. I then used a large vice as an improvised press, and mashed the
glued and rolled rubber plug into the steel ring motor mount insert. This
more or less gave me a solid rubber MM. After I put them in the car, (there were two--like the Maxima) it was great! A nice solid feeling. I could blast through first and second and break the tires loose any time I slammed a gear. That lasted about two months, when I blew the 1st-2nd gear shaft bearing right out of the molded Aluminum pocket inside the trani case! I took it apart to see for myself. An automatic may fare better, but solid poly? In a manual-driven Maxima? I think you're asking for trouble with that application. MM's are designed to cushion trani components as you sequence through gear engagement. Take that ability away from the mounts, and other components, how ever robust, will fail prematurely. The poly would be a better solution in a suspension application IMHO.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 12:03 PM
  #42  
goon9's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,191
From: Oakwood, Ga
Originally Posted by Mack531
goon9:
I have tried something similar on another car I have, (not my Maxima) with
a manual transaxle. I cut up a heavy mountain bike inner tube, trimmed it
into a long strip that I glued and wrapped around the central motor mount
tube. I then used a large vice as an improvised press, and mashed the
glued and rolled rubber plug into the steel ring motor mount insert. This
more or less gave me a solid rubber MM. After I put them in the car, (there were two--like the Maxima) it was great! A nice solid feeling. I could blast through first and second and break the tires loose any time I slammed a gear. That lasted about two months, when I blew the 1st-2nd gear shaft bearing right out of the molded Aluminum pocket inside the trani case! I took it apart to see for myself. An automatic may fare better, but solid poly? In a manual-driven Maxima? I think you're asking for trouble with that application. MM's are designed to cushion trani components as you sequence through gear engagement. Take that ability away from the mounts, and other components, how ever robust, will fail prematurely. The poly would be a better solution in a suspension application IMHO.
I already ran solid poly for atleast 30k. No troubles... I never would drop the clutch hard at all, I would always let the clutch slip a tad. I understand what your saying though and that was definetly in mind mind when I switch over. But if the tranny fails.. I can rebuild it again myself .

Good caution though
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 12:05 PM
  #43  
goon9's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,191
From: Oakwood, Ga
Originally Posted by mrkanda
Hmmm... sarcastic humor?
In line with that thought, how about finding a really large nut or nuts to thread onto the outside of the sleeve? That would give the poly a nice hexagonal shape to grab onto and would probably take up a lot of space, thus making the mount a lot firmer with just a little poly between it and the outside case of the mount.
OH! That is a great idea and would save a great amount of maching time. Now to find bigger nuts! I will try this.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 03:40 PM
  #44  
ColombianMax's Avatar
Please. Call me John. I insist
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,945
From: Chicago
Yea the nuts on tube idea = good idea! Now I know this is a MM thread so just briefly...goon, what precautions did you take prior to installin poly? What did you do to smoothen up your engine? PM me if necessary.

Chencuye
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #45  
Alex_V
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by BlooToof
Yea the nuts on tube idea = good idea!
ROFL on reading that out of context.

~Alex
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #46  
goon9's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,191
From: Oakwood, Ga
Originally Posted by BlooToof
Yea the nuts on tube idea = good idea! Now I know this is a MM thread so just briefly...goon, what precautions did you take prior to installin poly? What did you do to smoothen up your engine? PM me if necessary.

Chencuye

I've done all the route cap, rotor, wires, plugs, timing correction, even a brand new distributer which was very $$$$ and did nothing. The last thing I did that fix it entirely was changing the injector plugs.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:04 PM
  #47  
Maxpwer's Avatar
No turbo, no care!
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 760
From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by traxtar944
I have poly motor mounts as well. I like them, but some people don't. I can tell you this... if you don't like shaking then don't do it. My car shakes a lot more than it used to before the poly mounts, but then again I switched every single bushing over to poly except some random bushings........
Really? I didn't notice any extra vibration at all on your car when I drove it. Then again, perhaps I'm used to it. One thing is for sure though, you car is the best handling (and I thought smoothest) Maxima I've ever driven!
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #48  
CapedCadaver's Avatar
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 43,322
From: Central NC
Originally Posted by mrkanda
Hmmm... sarcastic humor?
In line with that thought, how about finding a really large nut or nuts to thread onto the outside of the sleeve? That would give the poly a nice hexagonal shape to grab onto and would probably take up a lot of space, thus making the mount a lot firmer with just a little poly between it and the outside case of the mount.
it was a serious suggestion, albeit a shot in the dark.
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 01:03 AM
  #49  
ColombianMax's Avatar
Please. Call me John. I insist
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,945
From: Chicago
Originally Posted by goon9
I've done all the route cap, rotor, wires, plugs, timing correction, even a brand new distributer which was very $$$$ and did nothing. The last thing I did that fix it entirely was changing the injector plugs.
Pff I've done all that, AND religiously when due. Only thing missing is the plugs but how much difference could those really make as long as they're clean.

Oh well, I figured you had something out of the ordinary done
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #50  
internetautomar's Avatar
mod or sell?
iTrader: (30)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,760
From: Skokie (look it up)
Originally Posted by BlooToof
Pff I've done all that, AND religiously when due. Only thing missing is the plugs but how much difference could those really make as long as they're clean.

Oh well, I figured you had something out of the ordinary done
corrosion on the part of the wires you can't see...
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 04:35 PM
  #51  
BenStoked's Avatar
Jesus was a Zombie.
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,962
From: OKC, OK
and possibly gap being off? 'course you're supposed to check that anyway, idk
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:01 PM
  #52  
CapedCadaver's Avatar
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 43,322
From: Central NC
Originally Posted by internetautomar
corrosion on the part of the wires you can't see...
any chemicals that can clean that without having to replace the plugs themselves? or perhaps a super-fine wire brush thing that can go up in there?
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:01 PM
  #53  
ColombianMax's Avatar
Please. Call me John. I insist
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,945
From: Chicago
gap atm is .044 and the wires are 2-3 months old replaced in october as part of the process of elimination
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #54  
BenStoked's Avatar
Jesus was a Zombie.
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,962
From: OKC, OK
Originally Posted by capedcadaver
any chemicals that can clean that without having to replace the plugs themselves? or perhaps a super-fine wire brush thing that can go up in there?
i think he is referring to the filament between the cap and the electrode.
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:08 PM
  #55  
internetautomar's Avatar
mod or sell?
iTrader: (30)
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,760
From: Skokie (look it up)
actually I was referring to the connectors on the injectors harness
Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:20 PM
  #56  
BenStoked's Avatar
Jesus was a Zombie.
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,962
From: OKC, OK
THAT makes more sense.
but i have seen pretty corroded filaments, even tho those came off a mower that a buddy drunkenly broke....
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AaronL
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
15
Aug 8, 2020 10:31 AM
D Mason
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
1
Jun 21, 2016 04:43 AM
Unclejunebug
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
10
Apr 2, 2016 05:42 AM
RealityCheck
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
Oct 2, 2015 06:34 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:50 AM.