I am sick of wheel hop and it's going to destroy my car. I know you can buy motor mount that reduce wheel hop or eliminate it completely. I'll be changing the clutch a month or 2 from and now and when I do I was wondering for a temp fix if I could weld the front and rear mounts to the cross member.

Would that cause too much vibration? Should I weld them?

 

Control arms will still move...

 

But I read wheel hop is caused by weak motor mounts. Wouldn't welding them get rid of wheel hop?
I know about JClaw braces and I think those reduce the control arm movement but I read that they do nothing to reduce wheel hop.

So how do I get rid of wheel hop?

 

You can loop cables through the struts, than w/suspension compressed weld the cables to turnbuckles and crank the cables down more...............

I will take pics of this set-up once I make some adjustments, pics will make what I'm about to say actually make sense: I didn't have the suspension fully compressed 100% stock ride height when I welded the cable to the turnbuckles, so I didn't have enough threads left to crank them down more once the cable stretched/bent/straightened out after a few launches. But for those first couple practice launches on the street......... Man was it smooth!

 

I hope your joking. There has to be people here that don't have wheel hop problems with their Max that know a way around it.

 

The lower sections are bolted solidly to the crossmember, welding wouldn't make a difference. Unless you meant welding the two parts together?

 

I mean welding so that the motor mounts are solid and not rubber anymore so that they have no movement at all.

 

Too stiff of mounts are uncomfortable at idle. Most with ES mounts say they are too stiff. Just fill your mounts with some poly and call it a day. I would not weld them in place!

 

front & rear ES inserts with th left & right motor mounts poly filled wit ES bushings nd all and th mattblehm Stage II lower tie bar and warpspeed subframe connectors Stage 1,2,3 and u shouldnt have anyproblems wut so ever buddy

 

I can't believe you said weld the motor mounts.

 

It is easy to prevent wheel hop if u drive it properly wen racing...

 

solid motor mounts are a nightmare in a street car. just get the ES ones when you do the swap and avoid wheelhop until then... LCA bushings are another big factor. i've got all new bushings (including the motor mounts) and it gets zero wheelhop.

 

i cant imagine how that would feel afterwards anyways...i doubt these were made to weld...dont do it man.

 

 

Engine/tranny assy movement/play and LCA back and forth play cause wheelhop. Eliminate those and you will eliminate wheelhop.

Engine mounts will all but eliminate the former.

LCA bushings, traction bars and to a lesser extent an LTB stage 2 and ball joints that aren't rattling in their sockets will help with the LCA play.

 

Sick of wheel hop eh? Then don't be dumping your clutch and you'll be fine.

I am not so sure that the motor mounts are your sole cause of wheel hop. My car can roast the tires and the wheels don't hop. Are you lowered? Using cheap-o tires? I have blown struts too. But, maybe because my car is an AT it is not as prone to wheel hop. I dunno.

But anyway, just try launching smoother and controlling your gas and clutch a bit better. Even if you "fix" wheel hop, burning out is not a productive use of your car's horsepower. So, just don't burn out anymore, you'll be fine.

On the other hand, I'd suggest better tires before you go welding your mounts. And if your car is lowered with negative camber, that may be a prob too.