The rear driver side rotor is completely rusted onto the hub. The car has 90K miles on it and still has the original rotors. I'm guessing the original owner had the rotors turned on the car

Anyway, The stuck rotor is the only thing stopping me from finishing my brake job. I was wondering if using a MAPP gas torch as well as bolts inside the caliper mounting bracket would be ok. Will this kill the ABS sensor?

Thanks

 

just beat teh rotor with a good hammer. not the part where the pads touch but the other part where the studs are, but watch out for the studs. should come off with a few hits..........

 

I'd prefer not to. Its nearly impossible to get a completely flat surface to jack the car up on and I'd like to keep the forces on the car as small as possible. I realize that a hammer is unlikely to knock the car off the jack, but you can never be too careful. 3300 pounds+ falls hard.

Besides, I spent the last hour beating on it with a mallet (probably not the best hammer its also not that heaby) along and ample amounts of PB blaster. The rotor did not budge. I'd like to try something that requires a little less effort and a bit less time.

 

A lot of rotors have a threaded hole just for this. Find the matching bolt size, screw it in, and it should push the rotor off. Haven't looked at 5th gen rear rotors in a while, but it is fairly common.

 

The replacement brembos I bought have a threaded hole, but the stock rotors on the car do not.

Heat anyone?

 

I would say, hammer it... that is what I do.

 

bang it dude it will come off.

 

Aright fine, you guys win.

 

Use a jack stand and it won't fall on you. You should never use the car jack except for changing a tire.

 

agreed as 2 guys came in with collapsed jacks for warranty! ouch

 

Put the wheel back on, put the wheel nuts back on but very loosely, so the wheel wobbles. Lower the wheel on the ground, use the steering wheel to turn the wheel right and left. There is a good chance the pressure of the wheel on the rotor will pop it off the hub.

 

Use two hammers. Put one on the surface of the rotors over the hub and beat with the other hammer. A mallet will not work. Use some fofrce and 5lb hammer or heavier. Make sure you put a **** load of penetraing oil over the center hole of the rotor. May have to sit for a while.

 

Its the rear rotor.

 

Aright, I'll borrow a heavy one.

 

Yes I know this rule. Although, jacking the car on a non level surface isn't conducive to stability no matter the device you use. I'm going to find a flat and empty parking lot tomorrow.

 

seriously...one sock with a mini-sledge will break that right off.

and on the jackstands. I won't even work under the car with my 6,000lb garage jack without stands. I'm hesitant to even change a tire using the lame scissor jack.

 

jack the car up and place on stands, remove driver side rear wheel and place lug nuts back on lugs to protect the threads, Get yourself a big 2-3lbs mallet and hit the brake hub all the way around. your brake rotor is corroded on the hub concentric! Revolve brake rotor around as you wack it on the brake hub not the rotor face surface ....will come loose!

 

I encountered the same thing on my '03 max. i just lubed it really good with PB penetrating oil, from the back side & around the stud holes on the front. let it sit for 30 min & sprayed down again. put tire back on and drove it around for a few hrs. took the tire back off later that afternoon and hit with a 3lb hammer (from back side) a couple of times and it came right off.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/351821/11

 

Rust Blaster, big hammer and ELBOW GREASE!!!!!!

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=352054

I like hotstartup's link, never tried that. I found neither heat nor small hammer hits did anything. Just a few heavy sledge hits while rotating the hub around broke loose. Tape a block of wood onto the backside of the rotor before hitting too if you care to try and save it any. Borrow extra jack stands while you're getting the big hammer.

 

5lbs sledge it comes right off hit it like a man, on my cousins old diamante with rusted rotors i actually cracked them in half then they fell off lol

 

A 48oz sledge, a screw in the torque bracket and some PB blaster did the trick. Popped them off in 5 minutes.

 

Now your good to go

 

Yeah good to go expect both rear calipers were bad. Parents vehemently opposed me doing any more work on the car so I had to stop. They offered to pay the dealership to do the work so the only thing I'm loosing is the fun of doing it myself. I can't say I'm all that disappointed because I don't really have all the right tools to get the job done without a headache.

 

Tell the P's the dealer also found the supercharger missing from the engine bay and suggested you take care of that maint item too.

 

heat will ruin the seals on the caliper and piston. look to rebuild it if you use heat (not recommended)

 

Parents aren't idiots. I'm not trying to disrespect them either. (Besides the Maxima is wrong wheel drive...... Forced induction? What? )

 

I decided against it last weekend because of the ABS sensor. Thats just another reason not to use heat.

 

hit it with a hammer and if u doing a brake job check dem calipers. Hopefully they aint seized like mine were

 

see my other thread

 

FWIW, if you're replacing the rotor anyway, just take the caliper mounting bracket off (you have to anyway to remove the rotor,) and give the rotor one good bang with a hammer - doesn't even have to be a BFH from the back side of the rotor. Don't ever use heat unless you have a strong desire to replace your wheel bearings and grease seals in the hub. The ABS sensor comes out by removing one (1) bolt and a little bit of gentle coaxing and prying with a screwdriver, should you need to get it out of your way.