How much can I get for my '92 gxe? Has some rust on the rear fender wellls. Car has about 140K, new injectors, alternator, starter, p/s pump, a/c works, sun roof, etc.

Looking to possible sale the car and move on.

 

Try hitting up Kelly Blue Book for a starting price. Might have to dock a little for the rust, but you might be all right from there.

 

also look at nada.com, usually nada will give you a higher price than kbb.com (kelly blue book) so you can kind of draw the line in the middle, or just tell people how much it is on nada.

 

fidolla...

 

Put it on Craigslist and find out

 

Rust = MUCH less money

 

if it was in good shape, 2500-3000.
okay shape, 1500-2500.
rust? 1000 tops.

it also depends highly on where you live tho.. up north, rust is 'accepted', down here in TX, it's worse than the interior smelling like death.

 

wow, thats nothing for this car.....proabbly will keep it.

Im waiting on my new injectors to come (ordered 5 new ones and one in the car is a factory new unit)....

so I will end up keeping the car.

As the saying goes, "its cheaper to keep her"

 

Just for comparison sake...

In East Tennessee
I just bought a 92 GXE for $1,000 (including the friend discount).

Plusses: No rust, had all records showing oil changes every 3K and all scheduled maintenance performed on a regular basis. Interior and trunk like brand new, good tires and brakes, drives smooth.

Not so plus: 215K miles, speedo is off by 10 or 15 mph usually, I'm putting 2 injectors in it now (ran perfect when I bought it a month ago), front fenders and hood have lost their clearcoat, High beam on passenger side doesn't work, radio is bad, antena is broken, driver's door has a 1/2 inch drop when you open it. And now since I worked on the injectors, I have a coolant leak onto the exhaust somewhere.

I feel like I got a pretty good deal even after the adventure of installing fuel injectors.

 

Matt - Rust isn't even accepted in the north. We KNOW it's going to be there, but we try to avoid it like the plague.

 

Rust is bad, but it depends on what degree it is. Sometimes it can be sanded off and painted. Done deal. If it is causing holes, that is where trouble can start.

 

if your car has as much rust as my parts car then you probably can't even sell it for $750... I was jacking the car up and the pinch weld caved in.... I bought the thing for $350 so it wasn't too bad a deal for me.

 

How much rust are we talking about here?

 

I've had your high beam problem before....I failed state inspection here in VA b/c of it....if it's not just the bulb, it'll probably be the switch....I ended up going to the junk yard and bought a whole d*** steering column, simply because the cost of the switch itself was outrageous.......steering column anyone?? ...and of course the antenna is fairly simple once you figure it out

 

The biggest issue with the "rust" issue with these cars is the places they rust at(location location location)..They rust in critical structural areas= safety issues!! like around the strut towers/seat belt mounting locations in the rear..etc..

some fender rust can be fixed by most novice shade tree mechs, unfortunately the rust issues with these cars are usually much more then the usual "chevy truck" rust issues..

 

Interesting! I was only aware of serious rust behind the rear passenger seats. Is rust common around the strut towers and seat belt mounts as you mentioned on most 3rd gens?

 

He's talking about the rear seat belt mounts. the big rust place on these cars is on the driver's side near the top of the rear strut mount. the rear seatbelt is in the same general area, as well as the fuel filler tube.

 

so ,is the "rear wheel well -rear seatbelt shoulder bolt area-rust factory recall"
that ive heard can total a car,mainly just sound bad because to a car
company its a saftey issue? i mean alot of other cars are prone to rusting
in certian areas but they dont issue factory recalls for that.

I dont have any rust on my 91 or 92 maximas in that place .
i checked both before purchase,and i have removed and cleaned behind the
drivers wheel well fuel filler neck plastic cover and there is no rust there either
thankfully

 

I tried replacing the bulb and swapping the bulbs from side to side and that made no difference. So I went ahead and picked up a replacement switch from my local Pull-A-Part junk yard for about $4.80 and it's contacts look like brand new. I'm just waiting to get my coolant leak problem taken car of before I tray fixing the high beam problem and the other minor problems.

 

you should have the injectors today.
these cars aren't worth all that much up here because they are almost all rusted, and rust kills most car value down big time.

 

let's just say i had a lil bit of Max on my Rustima. if you kick any of the fenders or trunk it'll just crumble.

 

Yeah I know what you mean man, I'm trying to make sure everything is running in the best condition before I leave for college this fall....but I still love the car though

 

Bingo. the reason it's a recall issue is because of the rust in the seatbelt area. If a seatbelt were to break loose in an accident and the passenger using said seat belt were to be injured, Nissan would be liable for a HUGE lawsuit.
So they issued a recall on it for the cars that have been registered in the rust belt.

 

oh seriously? it's limited to a certain part of the country?

 

Info on recalls for ANY vehicle back to 1966 are easily available right here....

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/RecallSearch.cfm

 

Even with major repairs if you keep a car foer Twelve Yrs. as apposed to buying brand new every 3 yrs, You'll save yourselg about 80 grand. About 10 grand less for hopping from used car to used car. My dad told me that(unless you just can't get parts for the car) never sell a used car and buy another used car. All your doing is selling your problems to someone and them buy someone elses problems. At least w/your old car you know what the problems are.