Locating replacement tranny
Locating replacement tranny
Hey guys, I've been checking car-parts.com looking for a replacement tranny for my car. Currently I have a VLSD tranny so it makes the search a little more difficult. I have a couple of choices but wanted to see what you all think:
1st option is a 2001 AE tranny, roughly $850 shipped. 150k miles 90 day warranty.
2nd option 98 I30 5-speed, VLSD. $700 + 300 shipping. 90k miles, 6 month warranty.
3rd option 98 I30 5-speed, VLSD, $1250, pick it up myself (60 minutes away), 101 day warranty
The 1st two options are in California, and I'm near Seattle. The 3rd is near by, but is it worth that much? Also for option one, I would either need to replace the striking rod (and judging by the fact the seal around my current one is hosed) or get 5th gen shifting rods (still need to confirm this will acheive the same thing as changing the striking rod) the cost might be closer to $1k.
Edit: Option #1, they will give me the 5th gen shift rods, tranny, and ship it to me all for $900.
Thoughts?
S
1st option is a 2001 AE tranny, roughly $850 shipped. 150k miles 90 day warranty.
2nd option 98 I30 5-speed, VLSD. $700 + 300 shipping. 90k miles, 6 month warranty.
3rd option 98 I30 5-speed, VLSD, $1250, pick it up myself (60 minutes away), 101 day warranty
The 1st two options are in California, and I'm near Seattle. The 3rd is near by, but is it worth that much? Also for option one, I would either need to replace the striking rod (and judging by the fact the seal around my current one is hosed) or get 5th gen shifting rods (still need to confirm this will acheive the same thing as changing the striking rod) the cost might be closer to $1k.
Edit: Option #1, they will give me the 5th gen shift rods, tranny, and ship it to me all for $900.
Thoughts?
S
Last edited by maximase86; May 15, 2008 at 09:54 AM.
Tranny is locked in a forward gear...shifter is in neutral. Tranny had problems of popping out of gear, input shaft was making noise. Essentially the tranny bit the dust. Since it's VLSD, rebuilding is a bit spendier (I remember seeing bearings for the VLSD was ridiculously expensive...$700+ from Nissan). With time and money I have available, it's more effective for me to get a new tranny. I can do the swap in almost 3 hours. I've yet to tackle a rebuild myself.
S
S
id go with option 2. not much more for alot less miles. but you didnt state the miles on option 3.
also obviously vlsd is alot better but you could always go with a regular 4thgen maxima tranny for awhile.
also obviously vlsd is alot better but you could always go with a regular 4thgen maxima tranny for awhile.
My bad, option 3 has 79k miles...but I'm not sure if that is really worth $1250. Maybe it is.
As for the VLSD, my car has that now. The car can be rather freightening to drive with an open diff and the amount of torque steer it produces. The VLSD has done a great job to control that. Plus if I get an open diff, I would need to get a new driver side axle...and I'm trying to minimize getting a crapload of different parts. The 01 tranny option is nice because I can essentially get all I need as one deal. I still also need to get a new clutch too. I also would really like an 01 tranny because of the improvements over older years...the mileage is the only thing I'm hung up on or I'd would just ordered it.
S
As for the VLSD, my car has that now. The car can be rather freightening to drive with an open diff and the amount of torque steer it produces. The VLSD has done a great job to control that. Plus if I get an open diff, I would need to get a new driver side axle...and I'm trying to minimize getting a crapload of different parts. The 01 tranny option is nice because I can essentially get all I need as one deal. I still also need to get a new clutch too. I also would really like an 01 tranny because of the improvements over older years...the mileage is the only thing I'm hung up on or I'd would just ordered it.
S
Your price includes installation...mine doesn't...even though I'm installing it myself (which doesn't matter). Sounds like you got a pretty deal. Labor is probably about $300-400 of that at least. Paying $1250 for just the tranny sounds very un-appealing.
S
S
Tranny is locked in a forward gear...shifter is in neutral. Tranny had problems of popping out of gear, input shaft was making noise. Essentially the tranny bit the dust. Since it's VLSD, rebuilding is a bit spendier (I remember seeing bearings for the VLSD was ridiculously expensive...$700+ from Nissan). With time and money I have available, it's more effective for me to get a new tranny. I can do the swap in almost 3 hours. I've yet to tackle a rebuild myself.
S
S
I'm thinking that option 3 is definately out hte questions now. 2 is looking really good...but even with the high miles of option 1...would the improvements be worth it?
S
S
The rebuild should cost the same. I get the VLSD bearing kit for the same price. The labor is more for me, but only because my bearing pullers aren't as effective on the VLSD diff.
Dave
Dave
For $150 bucks more, you will have a tranny that has 60K less than option #1 with 3 more months worth of warranty. It's not the deal of the century, but if you need a tranny now, it's not a bad deal.
My rebuilds are a lot less than that because I use core trannys and the customer generally doesn't need to eat the cost of damaged hard parts. And because the only trannys I work on are 4th and 5th gen trannys.
But any shop doing the work will do the exact same job whether it's open diff or VLSD, and the parts cost basically the same. The bearing kits should be within $20.
Dave
But any shop doing the work will do the exact same job whether it's open diff or VLSD, and the parts cost basically the same. The bearing kits should be within $20.
Dave
Alright, thanks for the info Dave. I might pick your brain down the road as I might decide to rebuild the old tranny. Since I need to get the car going right away, I'm going to go ahead and do option 2.
S
S
Well, A tranny arrived today. They sent me an auto I30 tranny. That doesn't do me very much good at all. I'm pretty pissed because I got a people and a place to get the car done lined up. Has anyone dealt with LKQ in Bakersfield, CA? I plan to call them and tell them they gave me the wrong tranny. Maybe I'll get lucky maybe they can expedite shipping? I just hope they don't stiff me with the shipping charges...it cost $300 to get the wrong transmission sent to me...
S
S
GOing to call them again soon.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 9
Tranny stuck in forward also
Sorry to revive an old thread. This is the closest I get to my problem after extensive searching (and since I can't post a new thread cuz i'm a noob). I hope though I didn't overlook the exact problem mentioned elsewhere.
Sorry for the length; trying to be as descriptive as possible at this late hour.
I have a 96 GLE, with 225k miles. Saturday evening, I drove 60 miles on the highway, and got off on an exit, and stopped at a stop light. When I accelerated, heard a clunk and car jerked a little, seemed like slipping and then caught. But I had low torque; which I figured out a little later was that the car was now only going into the higher gear(s). Also when I parked, I realized that reverse wasn't working; had to push it back in N with the engine turned off. But while its in 1,2,3,D,N, and P, the tranny is engaged. On R, it won't roll back/forward, when I accelerate, but P & N/D it would roll forward when I stepped on the gas. Engine felt engaged since I tried to rev it a little, it would rev sluggishly and go to 2000rpm when it should go atleast 5 or 6k. Also couple of times when I was trying pulling into a parking lot, and accelerated when I was almost almost stopped, the car made a dull scratching sound, with no acceleration, but a second later it engaged, once with a clunk, but after that no sound. Anyway, Checked fluids, everything looked ok. Clear tranny fluid.
Had to drive another 60 miles, but since when the car was at speed, it would drive fine, decided to risk it. 4th gear + O/D and I guess 3rd gear worked fine. When I got near home, the car actually worked better. N felt more like the problematic R, i.e. engine felt engaged but no power output via tranny. In Drive, it still wouldnt go in 1st or 2nd gear, only 3rd gear etc. but no sounds came and normal amount of slip from torque converter (when I was accelerating from a stop). Oh CEL came on just the last mile or two before I got home. Got home parked it and looked at it a little yesterday to read the Error codes that popped up. Also I was going to roll it back, but it won't roll back. Maybe it worked better when tranny was warm. And before this, I've never had any issue with transmission. No slipping, gear changes have been smooth and fairly quick the past 2.5 years that I've owned this car. I've driven it about 60k miles.
Just wanted to confirm that it sounds like tranny going out? Not something else (i.e. solenoids or something; I speak from inexperience about auto transmisions).
As far as transmission replacement, since I would get someone to do this work, I figure getting a used tranny from a, 90k-ish mile car from LKQ shold be the best bet? I'm in So Cal, Inland Empire. And I guess I would try the newest maxima possible, up to '99, right? Just want to have as much facts as possible.
Any input would be appreciated.
Sorry for the length; trying to be as descriptive as possible at this late hour.
I have a 96 GLE, with 225k miles. Saturday evening, I drove 60 miles on the highway, and got off on an exit, and stopped at a stop light. When I accelerated, heard a clunk and car jerked a little, seemed like slipping and then caught. But I had low torque; which I figured out a little later was that the car was now only going into the higher gear(s). Also when I parked, I realized that reverse wasn't working; had to push it back in N with the engine turned off. But while its in 1,2,3,D,N, and P, the tranny is engaged. On R, it won't roll back/forward, when I accelerate, but P & N/D it would roll forward when I stepped on the gas. Engine felt engaged since I tried to rev it a little, it would rev sluggishly and go to 2000rpm when it should go atleast 5 or 6k. Also couple of times when I was trying pulling into a parking lot, and accelerated when I was almost almost stopped, the car made a dull scratching sound, with no acceleration, but a second later it engaged, once with a clunk, but after that no sound. Anyway, Checked fluids, everything looked ok. Clear tranny fluid.
Had to drive another 60 miles, but since when the car was at speed, it would drive fine, decided to risk it. 4th gear + O/D and I guess 3rd gear worked fine. When I got near home, the car actually worked better. N felt more like the problematic R, i.e. engine felt engaged but no power output via tranny. In Drive, it still wouldnt go in 1st or 2nd gear, only 3rd gear etc. but no sounds came and normal amount of slip from torque converter (when I was accelerating from a stop). Oh CEL came on just the last mile or two before I got home. Got home parked it and looked at it a little yesterday to read the Error codes that popped up. Also I was going to roll it back, but it won't roll back. Maybe it worked better when tranny was warm. And before this, I've never had any issue with transmission. No slipping, gear changes have been smooth and fairly quick the past 2.5 years that I've owned this car. I've driven it about 60k miles.
Just wanted to confirm that it sounds like tranny going out? Not something else (i.e. solenoids or something; I speak from inexperience about auto transmisions).
As far as transmission replacement, since I would get someone to do this work, I figure getting a used tranny from a, 90k-ish mile car from LKQ shold be the best bet? I'm in So Cal, Inland Empire. And I guess I would try the newest maxima possible, up to '99, right? Just want to have as much facts as possible. Any input would be appreciated.
Sorry to revive an old thread. This is the closest I get to my problem after extensive searching (and since I can't post a new thread cuz i'm a noob). I hope though I didn't overlook the exact problem mentioned elsewhere.
Sorry for the length; trying to be as descriptive as possible at this late hour.
I have a 96 GLE, with 225k miles. Saturday evening, I drove 60 miles on the highway, and got off on an exit, and stopped at a stop light. When I accelerated, heard a clunk and car jerked a little, seemed like slipping and then caught. But I had low torque; which I figured out a little later was that the car was now only going into the higher gear(s). Also when I parked, I realized that reverse wasn't working; had to push it back in N with the engine turned off. But while its in 1,2,3,D,N, and P, the tranny is engaged. On R, it won't roll back/forward, when I accelerate, but P & N/D it would roll forward when I stepped on the gas. Engine felt engaged since I tried to rev it a little, it would rev sluggishly and go to 2000rpm when it should go atleast 5 or 6k. Also couple of times when I was trying pulling into a parking lot, and accelerated when I was almost almost stopped, the car made a dull scratching sound, with no acceleration, but a second later it engaged, once with a clunk, but after that no sound. Anyway, Checked fluids, everything looked ok. Clear tranny fluid.
Had to drive another 60 miles, but since when the car was at speed, it would drive fine, decided to risk it. 4th gear + O/D and I guess 3rd gear worked fine. When I got near home, the car actually worked better. N felt more like the problematic R, i.e. engine felt engaged but no power output via tranny. In Drive, it still wouldnt go in 1st or 2nd gear, only 3rd gear etc. but no sounds came and normal amount of slip from torque converter (when I was accelerating from a stop). Oh CEL came on just the last mile or two before I got home. Got home parked it and looked at it a little yesterday to read the Error codes that popped up. Also I was going to roll it back, but it won't roll back. Maybe it worked better when tranny was warm. And before this, I've never had any issue with transmission. No slipping, gear changes have been smooth and fairly quick the past 2.5 years that I've owned this car. I've driven it about 60k miles.
Just wanted to confirm that it sounds like tranny going out? Not something else (i.e. solenoids or something; I speak from inexperience about auto transmisions). As far as transmission replacement, since I would get someone to do this work, I figure getting a used tranny from a, 90k-ish mile car from LKQ shold be the best bet? I'm in So Cal, Inland Empire. And I guess I would try the newest maxima possible, up to '99, right? Just want to have as much facts as possible.
Any input would be appreciated.
Sorry for the length; trying to be as descriptive as possible at this late hour.
I have a 96 GLE, with 225k miles. Saturday evening, I drove 60 miles on the highway, and got off on an exit, and stopped at a stop light. When I accelerated, heard a clunk and car jerked a little, seemed like slipping and then caught. But I had low torque; which I figured out a little later was that the car was now only going into the higher gear(s). Also when I parked, I realized that reverse wasn't working; had to push it back in N with the engine turned off. But while its in 1,2,3,D,N, and P, the tranny is engaged. On R, it won't roll back/forward, when I accelerate, but P & N/D it would roll forward when I stepped on the gas. Engine felt engaged since I tried to rev it a little, it would rev sluggishly and go to 2000rpm when it should go atleast 5 or 6k. Also couple of times when I was trying pulling into a parking lot, and accelerated when I was almost almost stopped, the car made a dull scratching sound, with no acceleration, but a second later it engaged, once with a clunk, but after that no sound. Anyway, Checked fluids, everything looked ok. Clear tranny fluid.
Had to drive another 60 miles, but since when the car was at speed, it would drive fine, decided to risk it. 4th gear + O/D and I guess 3rd gear worked fine. When I got near home, the car actually worked better. N felt more like the problematic R, i.e. engine felt engaged but no power output via tranny. In Drive, it still wouldnt go in 1st or 2nd gear, only 3rd gear etc. but no sounds came and normal amount of slip from torque converter (when I was accelerating from a stop). Oh CEL came on just the last mile or two before I got home. Got home parked it and looked at it a little yesterday to read the Error codes that popped up. Also I was going to roll it back, but it won't roll back. Maybe it worked better when tranny was warm. And before this, I've never had any issue with transmission. No slipping, gear changes have been smooth and fairly quick the past 2.5 years that I've owned this car. I've driven it about 60k miles.
Just wanted to confirm that it sounds like tranny going out? Not something else (i.e. solenoids or something; I speak from inexperience about auto transmisions).
As far as transmission replacement, since I would get someone to do this work, I figure getting a used tranny from a, 90k-ish mile car from LKQ shold be the best bet? I'm in So Cal, Inland Empire. And I guess I would try the newest maxima possible, up to '99, right? Just want to have as much facts as possible. Any input would be appreciated.
If if does indeed roll forward in Park, then the parking pawl is broken or just plain not engaging. Do you mean it tried to roll forward, but couldn't?
Anyway, been there, seen that. Toasted trans, in my case. The not being able to push it back while it's in anything other than Park is a good indicator.
In my case, the forward clutch pack had literally welded itself together from slippage. It's possibly you ruined the trans by driving it with simple damage.
What codes did you get? You said you read them, but never posted them.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 9
It's not an electrical problem if Neutral and Park (!) actually roll forward.
If if does indeed roll forward in Park, then the parking pawl is broken or just plain not engaging. Do you mean it tried to roll forward, but couldn't?
Anyway, been there, seen that. Toasted trans, in my case. The not being able to push it back while it's in anything other than Park is a good indicator.
In my case, the forward clutch pack had literally welded itself together from slippage. It's possibly you ruined the trans by driving it with simple damage.
What codes did you get? You said you read them, but never posted them.
If if does indeed roll forward in Park, then the parking pawl is broken or just plain not engaging. Do you mean it tried to roll forward, but couldn't?
Anyway, been there, seen that. Toasted trans, in my case. The not being able to push it back while it's in anything other than Park is a good indicator.
In my case, the forward clutch pack had literally welded itself together from slippage. It's possibly you ruined the trans by driving it with simple damage.
What codes did you get? You said you read them, but never posted them.
Codes, first two were unrelated; P0150/P0325, which is an O2 and Knock sensor and P0732; unable to get in 2nd gear. I guess I made the problem worse. I had assumed the transmision was toast. Guess I'll have to get it towed soon. Any caveats/notes for buying a used transmission? Should I let the mechanic find me one?
Thanks for the info.
There is one (automatic) on Ebay that supposedly only has 28,000 miles on it. Guy is in CT.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...Q5fAccessories
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...Q5fAccessories
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 9
There is one (automatic) on Ebay that supposedly only has 28,000 miles on it. Guy is in CT.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...Q5fAccessories
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...Q5fAccessories
Hey Thanks for looking that up. I decided to just get one through the mechanic and as he'll warranty parts & labor for 4 months. $1k for parts & labor. Hopefully thats a decent price.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 9
I don't have an alternate vehicle (well I do, but its got electrical issues) so I just want to get it fixed. And I have a long commute to work. Although that VLSD would have been sweet. Thanks for a heads up, btw.
Last edited by iniazi; Feb 9, 2009 at 11:58 PM.