I have a 97 GXE. One day the Heat gauge all of a sudden started to slowly climb up. I thought that maybe there's a problem with the cooling system or the fans. The heat gauge tends to climb up with the rpms as u rev the engine (it comes down a little as the rpms drop). If you restart the car the heat gauge returns to normal, sometimes it'll start doing it again, sometimes it goes away. If the problem is accuring the car starts to loose power at 3000 rpms (like the MAF is ****ed or something). The MAF has already been replaced and the problem continues. It seems like the engine is not really over heating, cause if it was it would never cool off that fast.

What the F could this be?

 

maybe its two problems at the same time...
1st -the car is overheating(sticking thermostat) and you are losing power because A,the car is overheated and B, the KS is trying to compensate for the spark knock.
2nd- faulty temp sending unit??
do you have a way of getting a second source for a temp check?
even if the temp sending unit is ok and its just a funky thermostat.

 

coolant flush

 

That doesn't sound like a very weird problem. What sounds weired is that you replaced your MAF to fix a coolant issue.

Try replacing the thermostat

 

I think he was trying to say he has replaced the MAF recently, not as a result of this problem.

I agree with replacing the thermostat, might as well change your coolant at the same time as well

 

thermostats in our cars fail open by design, unless severly corroded, which means a flush is necessary anyhow.

 

Mine failed closed @95k miles and there was not a hint of corrosion on it.

 

not enough coolant/leak maybe

 

Isnt it supposed to be, the higher the rpms, the more coolant is pumped, and the cooler the engine is supposed to run?

 

Not if the system is clogged somewhere. the higher the RPMs the more heat is generated. But, with a restricted flow the extra heat cant be dissipated.

 

Ding ding ding, we have a winner! I too have had a thermostat fail closed. I have also had one stick intermediatly, sometimes it would be fine, other times it wouldn't open. Replace the thermostat, then go from there.

 

Quick update.

1. I've recently put in a new radiator so I don't think that I need a flush. (before the problem started).

2. The MAF was changed by my shop just to discount that as the problem. Since I was loosing power after 3000rpm they thought that might be a problem, I don't know why, don't ask me.

I'm having the temp sensor replaced today, lets see if it fixes the issue.

 

So you've done everything else...but replace the thermostat? You might as well do it. They aren't that expensive.

S

 

Have them replace the thermostat at the same time

 

There are two temp sensors in the Max - check both. On my own car I had a broken wire on one of them, so check carefully.
Modern thermostats are usually the wax type which fail closed, the old alcohol ones failed open.
If it were my car, first I would simply remove the thermostat and see if the problem continues. If it does, proceed to check the radiator; does the whole of the matrix get hot when the car is fully warmed up? If not, there is a blockage. If if is not the radiator or the 'stat, proceed to check the coolant flow. Plenty of coolant being pumped? If yes, you can eliminate the water pump and what remains is the sensors - probably a sensor or wire failure.

 

you cant "simply remove the thermostat" on a maxima.

 

Well...I've replaced the temp sensor on the Thermal Housing, and put my old MAF back on. At first it seemed like everything was fine, but after driving the car for like an hour the problem came back in full effect.

I'm puzzled...Going to try a coolant flush later.

Could this be a gauge cluster problem? I've had a lot of new wiring done to the dash, they ****ed with the dimmer switch, the hazard light switch, and the AC fan switch (i have manual AC). I got like 5 new relays that slide out a part of the dash. Could this be a wiring problem that's sending a wrong signal to the ECU and the ECU is cutting power to the engine?

 

hmm water pump, coolant sensor or thermostats. If the water pump fails, there is a hole which drips out a little bit of coolant, so if you see a small leak it maybe time for water pump. Didn't try the thermostats yet? its an easy thing to do and cost under 10 bucks.

 

REPLACE YOUR THERMOSTAT

 

lmao @ the title change.

DONT DO IT ZAM!! DONT DO IT!!

 

this has to be one of those hidden camera type joke things right????

You could just change the engine...but make sure to put your current thermostat in ok! LOL!!

man I am really not trying to be an ***,but this is almost funny.
Is there some reason you dont want to change the thermostat? lots of people here are taking there time to try and help and its like they are being ignored.
the truth ,it might not fix it! its hard to diagnose things over a computer sometimes, but DAMN!!!,thermostat is cheap,easy,couldnt hurt ,and will more than likely solve your problem .
I certainly wouldnt ASSUME that your car is not really over heating....that could be a very expensive ASSUMPTION!
what I am trying to say here is TRY IT, you just might like it.

 

You gotta understand...I'm all FOR listening to you guys, but I'm at my shop right now, and my guy is saying that he wants to try all types of other different **** before he replaces the thermostat. He doesn't trust forums. Tomorrow I WILL replace the thermostat.

Don't get me wrong guys, I appreciate your help and value your opinions. I just get VERY heated arguments from my shop guy to listen to him. But screw him...I'm changing the thermostat....I'll let you guys know whats up when I change it.

 

replace the thermostat, and if the maf was refurbished it could still be faulty i know somebody that had to replace it three times because he kept getting refubersihed.

 

I understand and I hope you took what i said the way I intended...to get your attention!
about your shop guy,this isnt a matter of trust,it is a matter of diagnosing a problem,and a thermostat is right up at the top of the list to check/replace when there is a cooling problem.its "auto repair-101" kind of stuff here.
there is a lot to learn here
keep us posted

 

Is your guy charging you by the hour? That's probably why he wants to try all sorts of things...

Keep it simple.

 

such entertainment....

 

come to my house ill fix your car, **** you in the truck and give you a free cd after the show :P

 

 

uhm....

 

Brought to you from the butt bandito.

 

Where is the thermostat on the max? Is it hard to change yourself? By the time I found a thermostat for my max the shop closed...just wondering if I can change it myself...

 

 

search,search ,search...and....search.
its in the stickies


its pretty easy if you are a little mechanically inclined.

 

well maybe its not, I just clicked on it and I didnt get instructions on how to change a thermostat thats for sure.
let me see what i can do ...

 

The thermostat is about $15 from the dealer.

To locate it, follow the top radiator hose to the pass side of the motor. that leads to the thermostats/housing where you will need to remove the hose clamp (usually 10mm or phillips) and 3 bolts (10 mm). the thermostat is replaced as a whole with the housing. Before changing, drain the radiator of coolant via the drain screw on the bottom. (pass side of the rad). when done, put everything back and put the coolant back. If the coolant hasnt been changed recently, you may as well take this opportunity to flush the system.

 

Actually he needs to follow the bottom radiator hose. Thermostat is located on the passenger side of the motor, above the thermostat, where the lower radiator hose runs in.

 

one or the other. havent changed one in a while.

 

Ok...I've done the following.

1. Changed the Thermostat.

2. Changed the Crankshaft Sensor

3. Did a coolant flush.

THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE ! ! ! WTF?

 

have you checked for codes?

 

hey ,I was looking back and found this here
so did you change the temp sensor or the temp sending unit?
they are two different things.the temp sensor is for the ecu and the sending unit is what works the gauge...although that doesnt explain the losing power issue.
hmmmm...