2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

just crious. how did you flush it?

Did you get a power flush?
Use prestone?

If there is buildup, water wont cut it.

I have no idea why you think the crankshaft position Sensor would affect the temp guage.

Checked the wires on the temp sensor plug?

Fuel injection is controlled by temp so i wouldnt be surprised if the 2 symptoms are related.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Just because this hasn't been questioned as of yet - yes you can, quite easily. All of the stock ones I've seen have the actual thermostat unit secured to the housing by two screws, and my current aftermarket thermostat is held in place by a bracket of sorts, using the thermostat's spring action to hold it in place.

Last time I drove down to TN, had to remove the thermostat from the housing and it took all of 15 minutes.

MaxGordon7

iTrader: (36)

try replacing the coolant sensor

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

why was the crank sensor changed

I know you want to fix the problem with your car but you have to be smart about it, your spending money on changing things completely un related to the problem at hand. if you have money to burn thats a different story.

its like your might as well change your rear calipers, that might help the problem

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

You need to stop replacing random parts. Download the FSM and start troubleshooting this in the proper steps. If you cannot do the work yourself, I HIGHLY suggest you take your car to a different shop, because right now it sounds like you have a bunch of monkeys working on your car, which could be your entire problem. Right now they are not following ANY logic in troubleshooting a cooling problem.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

This reminds me of a certain situation in the past. All I'm going to say is coolant...and fuel.

S

Zamochy

i used prestone to do a coolant flush. no codes are thrown out except the o2 sensor i have no cat, and the problem is still there

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Have you checked coolant flow? Have you checked system pressure? Did you bleed the system properly? Are you sure you don't have air in the system? Have you checked your water pump? Have you checked BOTH temp switches? Have you checked your radiator cap? Have you checked your oil for signs of excess moisture?


Do ALL of those things, then post back here. Until you have done that, you might as well have not done anything at all.

Zamochy

I've done all that when I did the flush. I've already replaced the coolant sensor as well. Could this be a wiring issue? I have a LOT of electronics in the car, could a wiring issue cause this? I have a sound system, I got a remote start system with a cut off switch, I have like 5 relays that control the tv, dvd, radio...etc...some are wired to factory switches like the dimmer, a/c, etc....

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

No one here can answer that. If you want to drive the car out to WA state, I'll sit down with the FSM and figure it out for you. Otherwise, either you or your mechanic are going to have to trouble shoot this one. The FSM clearly states how to test your wiring and circuitry to eliminate a wiring issue. Have you done that? You need the FSM and a multimeter, no one can test that for you through the forums.

alset2

iTrader: (1)

I'll ask again...did you replace the "temp sending unit" or the coolant temp sensor? they are two seperate items.the temp sending unit is what controls your gauge,while the coolant temp sensor is for the ecu and would not affect your gauge.

Zamochy

I've changed the "Thermostat". It goes on the passenger side of the engine right above one of the pulleys...I think there's a coolant line running into it...

Since my last post, I've discovered that there's been two small holes on one of the hoses running from the radiator, they only leaked at higher RPMs. I replaced the hose.

Since the beginning of this problem after all I've changed the problem started occuring less often, but it still happens at least once or twice a day....

Could this be caused by a faulty gauge cluster? Cause ever since I bought the car my speedometer would stop working on and off...so maybe it's just a F*d up cluster?

I was also wondering if this could be a fuel problem? I'm also thinking of checking my water pump...even though it seems like it's running fine....I'm just wondering that what would cause power loss along with the overheating?

alset2

iTrader: (1)

have you changed the temp sending unit???
its cheap and takes about 5 minutes to change!

good that you found the leaks though.

if it is really overheating you can lose power because the knock sensor is sensing the "pinging" and trying to compensate for it.but I thought you were pretty sure it wasnt really overheating,has something changed?

Zamochy

No I don't think that it's really overheating, because if it really overheated reaching the levels of heat that the gauge is showing, there's is no way that it'll cool down so fast (cause if I restart the car the gauge will drop down to normal levels, then sometimes start climbing again...sometimes just go's away...)

What and where is the sending unit?

My issue with analyzing this problem at this point is this: The problem doesn't happen all the time, and there is no identifying factor in when it's gonna happen...there are no codes being put out. So what would cause this to happen SOMETIMES, and not all the time.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

On the coolant log, directly behind the heads. The one-wire sensor.

What could cause it to happen? A faulty sending unit, or bad connection.

Zamochy

The temp sending unit was already changed...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The 2 wire or the 1 wire?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Air in the system will cause the issue to happen sometimes, but not all the time. So will a sticking thermostat. I had a warped cylinder head once that also caused a similiar issue.

Zamochy

It's definetly not the sticking thermostat, I've had the thermostat replaced already.

I replaced my gauge cluster today...lets see if it helps. I'll get back to you guys if the problem is still there.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I don't understand why you named this thread "...easiest to fix problem ever!!!..." when you still don't know how to fix your problem? That dosn't make any sense. Your thread title would imply you've already fixed your problem, and it was easy.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

thread title was changed to that before when he was having problems with his car over heating and he was doing everything but the obvious to fix the problem.

alset2

iTrader: (1)

in an earlier post you mentioned changing the coolant temp sensor ,not the temp sending unit.they are right next to each other and I am just TRYING to verify that you are aware of the difference.
so are you????

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Try and keep up; and learn how to spell Mr. Grammar Police.

Zamochy

Ok...I got some updates.

1. Yes I know the difference and both the sending unit and coolant temp sensor have been changed.

2. After I switched out the gauge cluster, the heating guage stopped buggin out, and the speedometer now works fine. But now I'm still having the same problem occuring where I'll loose power at 3000+ rpms. There's no warning when it's gonna happen....I'll just be driving and all of a sudden it just burbles and won't go. This has to be part of the same problem right? And if it is then WTF?

3. I don't think it's the MAF cause when I switched it to a new one the problem was still there, so I switched back to the old one. I was thinking maybe it's part of the Fuel system...It seems like it happens when I'm at a quarter tank or less.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

The quarter tank or less part is a big clue if this is indeed happening. Either your fuel strainer is pointing up, therefore not sucking up the gas like it wants to, or your fuel pump is dying. First check the strainer. If it's ok, then it might be worthwhile to change the fuel pump.

Zamochy

Only concern that I have is why there no code being thrown out when this happens?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

There would not be a code for that.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

LOL! What is this?

Zamochy

ALL PROBLEM FIXED ! ! ! !

Replaced the fuel pump...power loss issue went away.

Thats crazy...basically I had a bunch of things go wrong all at once. Thats why it was hard to analyze what the problem was.

1. Leaky coolant lines.

2. Faulty Cluster.

3. Faulty Fuel Pump.

And now on to the Turbo ! ! !...this is going to be a Looooooong project

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

glad the problem is fixed.

If your going to turbo your car, you should have replaced the fuel pump with a walbro... would save you money, instead of replacing you fuel pump with an oem one, just to change it for a walbro later.

Either way glad its working.

Zamochy

I know...I was about to change it to a walbro (they had one in stock too at my shop). But I'm going to build a motor first before I throw a turbo on it, and for now I don't need to be wasting gas. It'll be a couple of months before the motor is ready for a turbo. Then I'll upgrade the whole fuel system. I still need to get AP Racing brakes...and a couple of other things.

Thanks guys for all your advice and support !

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

how would you waste fuel? the walbro can still act like a normal pump, but when needed it can flow much more than an oem pump. your ecu, and fuel pressure regulator will make sure your not feeding too much fuel, so it would have been good to do it now, but its okay.

Zamochy

I would've needed a new regulator, otherwise it WOULD flow more fuel and run rich.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

why a new one? whats wrong with the oem one?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Young grasshoper has much to learn before building that motor....

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I highly agree. This problem he had now, is pebbles compared to the boulder size problems once can run into when going F/I

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

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