Should I spend the $100 for the timing advance to 17 degrees from the dealer or should I wait and spend ~$500-600 for the Greddy EU?

 

only thing I noticed with 17* timing advance was my ****ty gas mileage. Didnt notice anything power-related. I quickly went back to stock timing after that

 

Well Im getting an EU in a month so I'll have some more to report back then

 

Why so many other say that their gas milage was not affected at all. Plus they say how much more midrange power they have. IS IT ALL LIES OR WHAT?

 

Thats what I was hearing. They said milage was not affected and the launch and midrange were a lot more responsive

 

It's probably because the 17* timing advance works more effectively on the DE-K guys than on the 5.5 gens.

 

My gas mileage was not affected, I really did notice a difference in the power and so did my friend who was riding shotgun (MOHFPro90). Its definetly worth it, but I didn't pay $100, I slipped a guy $20 to do it.

But this has been beaten to death a million times, by some the best of the VQ business too might I add.

 

Yeah, thats what I read. I'll look in to the "back door" payment too

But should I just wait to get an EU and do it or do it this month?

 

just get the eu

 

if you are seriously planning to buy an EU then just wait for it. That thing gives you alot of control over engine settings.

 

Is the Greddy EU the one I should get

 

Well Greddy just filed for bankruptcy so I'm still not sure if I should go with them lol

 

haha ya i was about to say that .. happened earlier today ..

 

where and who could hook it up for me in ny?

 

You can bump your base timing to 17* via the dealer, Autoenginuity, or Cipher UpRev. I won't debate anything here, except to say that there are benefits, even for VQ35s.

The EU is great for many other things as well, but just be aware this is an advanced piggyback, not something you can just slap on and see results.

 

You can pose the question in your regional forum.

 

Do you notice anything in terms of sound? Since you change the ignition timing does it make it sound any better or different?

Also, it has an eliminate air flow sensor feature too that I want to experiment with

 

But I just learned it doesnt support the VQ30.... Only the VQ35

 

what the EU?

Yes the EU works just fine and does everything for you on the 3.0

look at dandymax

 

I didnt see it on the supported engine list on their website

I just looked at his Youtube vids and his car is awesome

 

just because it says its not supported doesn't mean it can't work, its just a matter of matching the wires (there is alot of them for the EU). Search on here for the pin outs for the A33 3.0 ecu and download the manual on greddy's website and pair the wires. better do it quick greddy's website may disappear if they are as badly in debt as they say they are, web servers tend to be the first thing to go.

 

Check the writeup in my sig for pinouts, wiring info and lots more.. the EU works just fine on a VQ30 engine/ECU, you use the VQ30DET engine code, same sensors and signals.

 

I went to the dealer and they did my timing advance, It was raised from 15 to 16, Feels good on highway in 3rd gear...=O)

 

Yeah, I know. I was looking at it yesterday and the banners werent even being hosted anymore for a while there lol. I'll get one at an online vendor or hit up Ebay if need be
Cool, thanks! Have you played around with the MAF eliminator feature at all?
Why did you only chose to go up 1 degree instead of 2?

 

I want the ability to put cheaper gas if i need to and i don't think it's a good idea to raise it too much cause it will cause you to have to shift earlier and i like to know i can shift at redline without engine damage...I have learned never try to go the max with everything...

 

I can understand the cheaper gas thing, but the pushing to max thing is just not true, you can push the car another 1000 rpm over redline and not face any problems. so push it to redline all you want nothing isn't ever gonna happen. Dandymax blew his engine at 3,500 rpms (oil pump let go), so you decide.

 

and I think he was turning 7,500 rpms at the track all day stock redline is fine

 

Yeah, minus the electronics, internally the VQ engines are built like tanks

Is there any reason why Nissan put the redline so "low?"

 

I'm not saying the car can't handle it, I'm sure you can slap on a supercharger and get another 300hp but then how long you think the misc parts of the engine are gonna last like that oil pump you mentioned...

My concern is a general care for the car, If you love your car then pushing it's limits would not be necessary...

Also i think Nissan put it that low so you don't do something stupid like go to 7K all the time and wear down the parts and blame them for poor quality....

 

Generous safety margin for what is to most owners, a "family car".

 

you can go to *20 and feel a huge diffrence with the EU












I did some expermenting with my 97 after the crash

 

so, is there any reason why you can't shift at redline with 17* as opposed to stock? i do it stock all the time

 

The higher you raise timing the further you push the redline back because you don't make any more power at 7K with timing advanced to 17 than you would with timing at 15 and shifting to 7K all your doing is making it possible for you to (late-shift) and let it go more and possibly cause engine damage...

Always leave yourself a margin for error unless your perfect...

 

How much is a huge difference?
I would say that the current redline at 15* would be an appropriate redline for the 2* advance to 17* but timing advances, I think it raises the redline too

The redline they gave the car is fairly generous to say the least

 

IMO redline should be...
15 - 7000rpm
16 - 6750rpm
17 - 6500rpm

Margin for error for all three is 500rpm

 

I'm going to the dealership to talk to my friend Jeff right now

I'll report back in a while

 

alright, i just talked to all three nissan dealerships here in the valley,
and two wouldn't do it, and the other one said it would only temporarily change the timing to 17* while the consult is hooked up. We all know that is garbage.
So I talked to the guy, and he said he would change it, on my own risk that it goes back as soon he unhooks it. I'll go in monday morning and he said he'll charge 50 bucks. Sounds like a plan? and how much truth is to the reverting claim?

 

wait, im confused... so if my timing is advanced to 17*, then my redline is earlier in the RPM band than the stock 15*, meaning i could cause engine damage if i shift too late?

i dont go any higher than 6500 anyway

 

Yes you can cause engine damage from shifting later when timing is advanced...

 

but how late in the rpm band? being that i dont shift past 6500 rpms anyway, would i be alright?