I listed the new rpm levels per advance in timing 5 posts up and i also listed the danger range...

 

well you said "should be" i didnt know if that was your opinion, or if it was factual

 

Well that's as close as your gonna get to an answer to your question...

 

Where are you getting this information? The timing advance should only affect initial timing, not total timing. It is mostly a low end and throttle response mod. Even with a couple degrees more total timing that shouldn't affect the redline since that is based more on bottom end strength than anything else.

With cars I could manually set initial timing using a timing light and rotating the distributor, I never noticed a problem with power peaking earlier and needing to shift sooner.

When you run nitrous, I know you dial back your timing but even that doesn't affect the redline.

 

Ok, you do it and see what happens and come back and tell us if i'm wrong...

 

Answer the question. Where are you getting your information?

Wouldn't really affect me anyway since the rev limiter kicks in at 6700 but I still want to know specifically what you are basing your rpm recommendations on.

 

Yes, my car was running without a MAF for almost 2 years, all those 12 second passes etc, the cammed videos and what not.. all of that was without a MAF in the car. It takes some time and tuning effort to do it well though. (There's a section for that in the writeup).

 

That's awesome! I can't wait to get to see the GUI and browse around it before I decide what I want to do!

 

I agree with scottwax, where are you getting this info?

This doesn't happen, it is the intial timing and does not affect anything with the redline.

 

All i know is if you advance timing and keep your foot on the gas pedal till that needle on your dash goes to 7 or above your stressing your car and not gaining any power and depending on the condition of your vehicle will damage something and i say something because there are numerous parts that can go wrong....I'm getting this information from yrs of owning a maxima and knowing plenty of ppl who have maxima's and have dont stupid things like that i have mentioned above and have had some sort of engine trouble as opposed to myself and people i know who haven't and haven't a care in the world...

 

That has to do with bottom end strength and not ignition timing if you over rev the engine. Initial timing also has nothing to do with reving the engine past peak power until it drops off.

You are posting specific rpms with respect to initial timing but what you are talking about isn't made any worse by advancing the timing.

 

Ok I will shut up and let you guy's just tell everyone that it's ok to raise there timing and rev there engine to 7K+ RPMs like it's a bike with no ill effects, There always a know it all in every forum...

I posted those specific RPMs out of respect for the wonderful engine Nissan has put in our cars that they worked so hard on... it's not actual number or i would have told you why i put them, I put them because it's where you should shift if you want to win a race, I'm gonna say it again....Your not gonna gain any power by shifting at 7K+ than you are shifting it at 6600...

 

lol......

Well where are these specs "Nissan" told you about when I advance my timing

 

I experienced an ill effect from having the base timing advanced that I haven't heard anyone else mention here. Had it done in the fall at a meet, next summer comes around and on warm days with 93 octane I'm hearing pinging at very VERY light load/partial throttle. It was so berely perceivable that most would have never noticed it, but I knew it was there and knew what it was, well for the most part anyways, there was a passing thought and a little voice in the back of my head that was saying "Hey, goodwin, you need to do headers on this thing asap, that might be the pre-cats jingling around". But for the most part I suspected pinging and couldn't figure it out, bone stock w/60k. It was freaking me out, I was like "wtf is going on here, this car is bone stock, why the hell is it pinging" and then I remembered about the timing advance!! had it backed off and no more deto under super light load.

Oh, and lols at Scottwax pwning the newb.

"Every forum has a kniowitall like myself who ignores the members who have actually done big things with VQ's and strapped them down or lined them up, and instead bases what they KNOW by their freinds who has mods maxzimaz and causeded serious engine dizmage, iburengineblowsupifyoudontfollowingmysillytimingvs rpmsafetychart"

 

^^^^^^^^^^ lmao... and i would say those rpm's that other dude posted have no facts to back him up but i do agree with him saying there is no hp bump from pushing your oover the rev limiter unless its been tuned to make power like that.

lets just have a nice discussion guys im sick of everybody start fighting when a newb say sum dum ish.

 

lol, I'm gonna start seeing alot of I hate my max and bad gas mileage threads cause these guy's wanna Honda a Max that was build as a family sedan and not a racing car, continue your thread guy's...

 

Who says that if you advance your timing 2 degrees you should then shift at 7000 rpm? I know I have never said that.

 

I honestly don't care about my gas mileage, I always have money to fill up my tank. I choose to modify my car and get the mileage I am getting.

In other news revving to 7,200 rpms is not so bad. In fact the VQs are able to take up to 7,500 rpms. But its at that point at 7,500 I don't recommend alot of people go unless they have been built and even then thats really a point where your engine is on a wing and a prayer.

Not to mention all of our engines do not see any real power gains after 7k rpms with the stock cams, Just thought I would squash alot of myth's in here.

We all have revlimiters at 6,500 rpms anyways.

 

What happens to a stick shift car when you are racing and have a lightweight flywheel and you rev up to 7200 and slam on the clutch to shift to next gear...
Does it...

A)Rev up slightly higher cause it has been disengaged from wheels and the force of it spinning and cylinders under compression from the point you get off the gas pedal give it that extra couple hundred RPM
or
b)suddenly drop down like your flywheel is made of gold...

How many people are that quick to shift at EXACTLY 7200 rpm all the time and if through some reason you have to look away from the dash as you should be looking at the road ahead of you and you pass that point how many people will suffer for a mistake that could have been prevented...

Also everyone keeps saying you don't gain power after 7 and i listed shift times all at reasonable levels for a shift point from a power prospective...

So like i said before don't shift you car past 7 cause there is no benefit to it and who said that you ask scott... post number 27 which i was replying too and also i said those posted redline figures were IMO and if you guy's don't understand what that means, It stands for IN MY and in me and no one else's Opinion as in not fact but an estimate of figures i have set-up for power...

Also i may have 118 posts but i been here for yrs boys i owned a 99max se and a vw 1.8T that had a true 7100 redline and been around the block with these cars not to mention am very familiar with the maxima groups on here and been to many meets, I have seen alot of worked up max's and talked to alot of people and i'm basing my knowledge from all the cars i have worked on and everyone i know knows that past 6700 it's better to get into another gear rather than hold it...

 

everyone will shift pre 7200 rpms....as our revlimiter prevents us from doing so (6,500 rpms I forget what manual guys hit but its less then 6750 IIRC) and FYI not everyone is running lightweight flywheel, most of the people in this thread are pretty much bolt-ons and/or still work in progress. But like I said unless you have an EU or technosquare ECU you are not going to see 7,200 rpms

I have bounced off the rev limit in my AUTO a few times(150,000 miles original engine/tranny), I manually shift it every now and then. Its not a bad thing, but doing it in excess can be bad. The power band for the 3.5 cams is right around 7,200 rpms.

And this thread is getting carried off topic. This is about timing advance and many members have had it done and have no ill effects to damage to any internal parts, this is a safe mod that can be done (there is no reason to change rev limiters when changing initial timing).

 

My thread has turned in to an all out war!

I just wanted to know if I should do the timing advance through the backdoor dealership or wait for the EU. I had my friend at one of the local Nissan dealerships handle it though for cheap

 

Hey phil you are going to have to hook me up with your friends services. I went to ken garff nissan down down and i talked to a tech or what looked like one at least and he said "no problem, i'll just go get some tools so i can adjust your distributor cap" While he was getting his tools i got out of there as quickly as i could. I hope he was just kidding with me but he seemed serious and i wasn't about to take that chance.

I would rather put cash in some techs pocket than $100 in the pocket of the dealer even if i have to drive all the way up there

 

No problem. When are you free to do it?

 

hondas are family cars too...i dont get it people rag on people modding maximas yet i see sooooo many grandmothers and moms and dads and everyone in honda civics and this and that honda accords...soo its the same $hit who cares who mods what a cars a car....remember a really sick max was in the fast and furious soo i think its got a nice rep to it.