so I just got done changing the oil, filter. and putting a new upper intake plenum gasket on my VE. I fired it up and it started nice n crisp and idle was noticeably smoother.

I always check around with a flashlight in the engine bay and underneath car for stuff i forget and leaks when its running. I now have a steady drip near the water pump. How could it be leaking there? I just replaced my radiator 3 weeks ago because it was leaking. Could this of somehow caused the pressure in the coolant system to force a leak in the "new" weakest part of the system?

Is the water pump possibly bad or could it be its seal is just leaking?

 

It could be anything. look closer. there's some coolant hoses just above the water pump. could be a cracked hose, could be the pump leaking. could be the intake manifold gasket isn't sealed as well. (The VG has coolant flowing through the manifold)

 

its the VE, i dont think coolant flows through the IM, does it?

too dark now, I got tomorrow off so i will be looking into that sometime in the morning. Hopefully its just a hose. worse comes to worse it looks like i can replace the pump without having to take too much other stuff off if any at all correct?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...formation.html

put in your year model/ engine/ go to Engine & Engine overhaul section..

 

why is this water pump pictured with what it looks like gaskets. I thought you just used liquid gasket?

 

disregard the gasket pics mang, use rtv sealant...

 

thanks again. one last question. I would prefer new, which I think im going to do if its what I need. But with the water pumps for the VE, how is the reputation on the rebuilt ones auto fart stores sell?

 

rebuilt pumps are false economy. there is no real savings in using one.

 

I replaced my ve w/p with a reman autozone unit about 5 years/100k ago, no problems.

 

I think one of the most forgot about things after a w/p replacement is filling your system with distilled water and antifreeze along with w/p lubricate...Lack of w/p lube will definitely shorten the w/p's life!

 

water pump lube? where do i get this and how is it applied? I might be doing this today if i can find a reasonably priced w/p. Also what RTV sealant works the best for installing the w/p?

 

I use the "Nissan orange", or the permatex orange from the parts store. never had a leak using that stuff.

 

PERMATEX High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

Formulated for hi-temp applications, or heavy-duty use (such as towing, etc.). Replaces almost any cut gasket. Makes reliable "formed-in-place" gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating caused by thermal cycling. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range-75°F to 650°F intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker.
Suggested Applications:
Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans. Part#81160 3.0 oz. $5.79


is what i was thinking. the only thing that threw me off is it says in the middle somewhere "Coats pre-cut gaskets.." But before that it says it "replaces almost any cut gasket."

 

some people still use those paper gaskets and coat both sides with a thin layer of RTV.
other people throw the gaskets away and just use RTV.

 

Isn't the lube already in a decent quality coolant? I would think that if you changed your fluid according to a schedule - you wouldn't need to add anything extra.

 

you can use prestone anti corrosive lube (1 pint container usually right near the flush and sealer) or use Wet Wetter by Redline...

 

ok so i have it all bolted together now, torqued to specs, and im putting the belts back on. I used the orange high temp sensor safe, 650f degree rtv sealant. I finger tightened and let set for an hour like it says, then i torqued it down.

It says it doesnt fully cure for 24 hours.

Is it safe to put coolant in and fire her up, or should I let the car sit until tomorrow?

 

I would think it would be safe, but you may as well wait the 24 hours to be sure. do you really want to do all that, again, if a leak springs?

 

so as im putting stuff back together I notice the tension bolt for the ac pulley is bent, and broke when i tried to tighten it back up. and with my luck.. the alternator tension bolt was bent, and broke. I went to lowes, home depot, and a specialty bolt/screw place in town.... nothing matches this stupid bolt.

from what I can tell there are 6mm 1.0 one is about 3 1/4" long and the other is about 4 1/2" long

will the dealer have these bolts, im guessing im going to get on the price

 

Run to the junk yard!
you may find some other stuff you "want" for your car, as well.
and, depending on the yard, they may give 'em to you free.

 

I have a good used a/c pulley tensioner assembly for sale if you want it..

 

i just need the bolt adjust..not the whole assembly, alternator one is what im more worried about since my a/c don't work anyhow.. the a/c one is $13 at the dealer and the alternator one is $2 at dealer.

looks like im bummin people for rides at least another day until i can run to junk yard tomorrow

 

Just go to a fastener supplier and they'll probably give you 1 of each. Don't go to the huge ones since they usually sell in boxes only - but the small ones sell individual quantities - just give him this:

M6X80 8.8 CAP SCREW COARSE PLATED
M6X120 8.8 CAP SCREW COARSE PLATED

I would double check your lengths though in metric, inches don't apply here.

 

well I use a prybar and was able to tighten the alternator down tight, not as tight as id like, but good enough. I left the ac belt off so i didnt have to worry about that one. and everything is hooked up, new coolant, bled the system for over an hour. Runs nice, no leaks.

The one place I went to was a specialty supplier of screw/ bolts etc and they didnt have any that had threads throughout the entire bolt, just 1 inch of thread at the end

 

PM me your address and i'll send you a bolt in an envelope if you paypal me $2. i have a parts car