my 93 gxe is misfiring extremely bad, its so bad that my catalytic converter is bad and glowing red. I think its running on 3 cylinders. I believe i have 3 bad injectors numbers 1,4,and 5 because i pulled the wires form the plug one by one and on those there was no change. my question is is it possible that there's no fire to the plugs?? i know how common injectors go bad on our cars but i wanna make sure. also do you think is a good idea 2 get the injectors from the junk yard and is there a way to tell if they are still good??

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thnx

 

honestly i would never get an injector from the junkyard......you need to just go ahead and swap them all out because more than likely what has fouled those 3 injectors up will mess up the other 3 also... i am also struggling with a spuratic injector failure...

 

Im assuming the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, are all in working order?

buy new, not remanufactured.

use a multi meter and check the ohm resistance of each injector, they should be 11-14ohms iirc

 

plugs and wires are o=good jus put new ngk plugs i dont really know about rotor or cap dont know how to change them. I have a friend that works at a lube shop and they service injectors for 100 bucks do you it will work??

 

servicing the injectors will help if they are clogged, but if they fail electronically you need to replace with known good used ones or new.

how long have you owned the car and when was the cap and rotor replaced last? its controlled by timing and tells the plugs when to fire, if cap and rotor are bad then maybe its creating your problem. Definately something Id replace if you dont know when its been done last.

 

$100 bucks is steep for a $30 replacement... Pick up a Chilton manual and save yourself some money... the cap and rotor are prolly the easiest maintenance parts on our cars, it's very straight forward....

 

it was my step dads car and he ran it in the ground he owned it for maybe 3 years and only fixed it when it broke down. out of those 3 years it sat maybe a year and a half. only thing i remember him changing was the alternator,tie rod ends and exhaust after he ran over a tire. so now that its mines i have a s**t load to do but i love the car this model has been my favorite car since i can remember.

 

Find a friend or learn yourself how to ohm out the injectors with a multimeter to check if they are bad. If they are bad replace with new or known good used injectors. If you search here Im sure theres a write up or steps on how to ohm the injectors and what they should be at.

Get cap and rotor replaced, by mechanic if you can't do it or dont trust yourself to do it.

Get a chiltons repair manual you can do this yourself and save lots of money.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...formation.html

 

I love stickies!

 

Injectors are common to fail on VG motor. Ive replaced at least 6 but I just go to the jyard with my meter and ohm them out. Ive also bought one off ebay for $20 that is still working good. Its not that hard to replace injectors and after youve done a couple you get quite good at it.

 

 

meh, our injectors fail electronically rather than getting "fouled up" so if a JY injector ohms good, it'll probably be fine for a while at least. the only time i saw good-ohming injectors not fire was a set that came from a water-logged engine, so they probably had rust issues on them. but other than that they usually work.

 

They fit in your pocket is all im saying

 

another thing that I have worked on before many times on Maximas is the wiring. The injector plugs and MAF pigtail get corroded and develop a lot of resistance. playing with all of them will usually cause a change in idle but not clear it up. I have had to replace pigtails for injectors and MAFs on many 3rd gens at the shop. Mine needs new pigtails for the injectors. Just haven't got around to ordering them

 

i tried that on the ones thats not firing but no change. how far or long does it take for the engine to throw the codes, i kept taking the battery out because i was messing with my chrysler and needed it.

 

the injector code doesn't always show up. i lost 3 injectors in a week and never threw a code. the cars are overall easy to work on, but they make you do the diagnosing the hard way.

 

Yea those are your injectors home boy but if you choose to replace all new which I dont recommend it will be close to $500 dollars change the three and use better gas how many miles

 

i dunno how many miles those injectors had on them. i put them in with the engine i got from goon9 when we put his engine into my car. the engine i had in the car when i got it also lost one injector just before i drove to Goons house but even that engine (and its injectors) was a replacement engine from a 94.

I just bought some 4th gen injectors from another member and put them in using my original (94) rail, which i painted 'JDM red' . The paint added 10whp, tru story . It runs fine, except sometimes the idle doesn't return properly, and my MPGs aren't as high as they were before. I'll address the tuning issues later, but the car runs fine now.

 

I didn't even know the 4th gen injectors fit...........o and those were already used injectors

 

4th gen injectors = VE injectors. Greeny found out that they all fit the 93-94 VG rail just fine, and use the same connectors as a 93-94 VG also. So i had to put on new plugs for the injectors but everything else was routine. Only issue is that they flow slightly higher so you will run rich in open loop and my car idles a little too high when warming up.

 

Oh ok but thats minor business

 

LMAO!

 

if you do all 6 your car should be able to compensate for the extra flow by cutting the injector's duty cycle

 

only in closed loop though. so every time i am heavy on the gas, and when the car is not yet warmed up, it's running rich. like when i start my car it goes to 2000rpm then (in an almost human-esque manner) notices that is too high and it goes back to 1500rpm.