Keeps blowing 02 fuses
Keeps blowing 02 fuses
Hey guys for some reason my car keeps blowing 02 fuses. Usually goes around 5 minutes after I start driving after I plug in a new one. What could cause this. and how could i find it
I have checked for shorts between all the 02 sensors and have found nothing. I've looked into each connector to make sure the prongs are faced up, Nothing. I didn't want to cut up much more than the harness but I suppose If I must.. -_-
Visually checked all the 02 sensor wires. Cut them back checked them.
I cut back a ways on both sides of the wiring harness and no visual signs. I've checked them with a meter when the car is on and they read fine. The 02 sensors also read fine. I started the car with a new fuse it in and it timed just 4:55 seconds when it blew. I put another fuse in it without messing with the car, started it up and it blew 5:06. Maybe irrelavent. maybe something is heating up. etc. Dunno. Any suggestions?
I cut back a ways on both sides of the wiring harness and no visual signs. I've checked them with a meter when the car is on and they read fine. The 02 sensors also read fine. I started the car with a new fuse it in and it timed just 4:55 seconds when it blew. I put another fuse in it without messing with the car, started it up and it blew 5:06. Maybe irrelavent. maybe something is heating up. etc. Dunno. Any suggestions?
Downstream 02 was rubbing along the heat shield. a small cut was made, and there was like 1 little piece of wire that would hit it and cause a short. Electrical tape fixed it. but Now I'm 100% vacuum leak free, and 100% exhaust leak free, but still my TC gets locked and wont free itself when going about 40. also my idle dips to about 600 and almost dies. But I'm throwing Zero codes. I'm so sick of this Car. -_-
Downstream 02 was rubbing along the heat shield. a small cut was made, and there was like 1 little piece of wire that would hit it and cause a short. Electrical tape fixed it. but Now I'm 100% vacuum leak free, and 100% exhaust leak free, but still my TC gets locked and wont free itself when going about 40. also my idle dips to about 600 and almost dies. But I'm throwing Zero codes. I'm so sick of this Car. -_-
Zax, even though we had our tiff, I'm gonna tell you how to fix that TC problem.
Go to a transmission shop and buy a bottle of LubeGuard ATF Protectant (it's the RED Bottle). Your valve body is getting stuck and not releasing when you hit the brake. The LubeGuard stuff is like motor oil for your valve body. You just pour this into your transmission and run it about 10-15 miles through all the gear ratios - that will lube up the valve and should give you a quick response.
Most people don't flush (change) their transmission fluid, and the fluid get old and get "trash" in the fluid causing the valves to start sticking.
Hope that helps you.
2002? have you tried using 1997 sensors? because oxygen is not a number...
p.s. sorry, i'm just tired of people using the number 02 when they mean oxygen, which is o2...
didn't anyone pay attention in middle school? /jerk
p.s. sorry, i'm just tired of people using the number 02 when they mean oxygen, which is o2...
didn't anyone pay attention in middle school? /jerk
^^^^Even I agree with Zax on this one!!! And we (Zax) don't get along!
Ha. Well Max-e, Thanks for the post I went to autozone, advanced and o'rileys, but I didn't find that stuff you were talking about. Where did you find it at..? Do I need to flush when I get done with it. it sounded like trans seafoam when you explained it. I did JUST put in a different tranny so I'm sure since it was sitting around it got stuff built up in it.
Ha. Well Max-e, Thanks for the post I went to autozone, advanced and o'rileys, but I didn't find that stuff you were talking about. Where did you find it at..? Do I need to flush when I get done with it. it sounded like trans seafoam when you explained it. I did JUST put in a different tranny so I'm sure since it was sitting around it got stuff built up in it.
As for flushing AFTER you put the LubeGuard in, the answer is NO. This stuff adhears to the compontents in the trans and help "slick" them up. It's sort of like putting a wax job on your car, the car still cuts the air, just not as streamlined as with a wax job.
Now, this stuff isn't cheap, I will warn you. It can cost anywhere from 20-30 for the bottle, but if your valves are sticking, it sure will help put a stop to it.
Hope that helps.
You won't find that stuff at the regular part store, you have to get it from transmission shops. Mapquest Cedar Rapids Transmission , they'll have it there (talked with the rep. in that area, say they've got it). Might even talk with them about doing a flush on your trans (especially if you've put in a used one) and putting the LubeGuard in after they flush it.
As for flushing AFTER you put the LubeGuard in, the answer is NO. This stuff adhears to the compontents in the trans and help "slick" them up. It's sort of like putting a wax job on your car, the car still cuts the air, just not as streamlined as with a wax job.
Now, this stuff isn't cheap, I will warn you. It can cost anywhere from 20-30 for the bottle, but if your valves are sticking, it sure will help put a stop to it.
Hope that helps.
As for flushing AFTER you put the LubeGuard in, the answer is NO. This stuff adhears to the compontents in the trans and help "slick" them up. It's sort of like putting a wax job on your car, the car still cuts the air, just not as streamlined as with a wax job.
Now, this stuff isn't cheap, I will warn you. It can cost anywhere from 20-30 for the bottle, but if your valves are sticking, it sure will help put a stop to it.
Hope that helps.

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tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Dec 20, 2021 06:57 PM




