Well, my maxima has been going through a series of starting problem. First, few weeks back until today, it would take me six-seven starts before it will finally run. This problem only occured during cold starts. So, my car has about 115k so I decided to change the spark plugs. I changed it and still same problem during startup. Then, I realized I had low battery, so I changed that, still same problem. Then, today, it wouldn't crank (no sound at all) at all, so I took out the starter and got it tested, it failed so I bought a new starter. I installed it and it still wouldn't crank at all. While I was replacing the starter, I also did an oil change, but I don't think that has anything to do with it. Any other suggestions, I checked the wiring and it seems correct, so I don't know why it is not cranking.

 

I'd check

-Ignition switch
-poor (or no) grounding maybe?
-Wiring from battery to starter


most likely theres a prob with one of those. I think its the ignition switch

 

Did you check all of your fuses?

Have you bypassed the clutch switch (5MT) or tried starting in every gear position (4AT)?

Have you tried jumping the starter manually?

Jumped the inhibitor relay?

Checked for B+ on the signal wire to the starter when the key is in the start position?

If you jiggle the key, does it help?

There are few things that could cause a no crank condition, if you search you'll find many many threads detailing the diagnostics. Have you searched, and performed any of them?

 

Well, I checked the ignition switch. I don't think that is the problem, because I actually followed your howto video on ignition switch and it still doesn't crank even after I put a screwdriver in the switch. I haven't tried starting on every gear, however you were mentioning many threads detailing diagnostics on no crank condition. I searched for them, many mentioned about bad battery terminals and neutral safety switch relay. However, where can I find more more diagnostic information. I tried looking at the newbie page, but its 110 pages long!

 

Search and you shall find. Have you tried anything from my post yet?

 

Alright, so I searched more, now I think I might have found the problem, but I need to verify from you all. So according to your previous post, you had mentioned to check for battery (+) voltage on the cable going into the solenoid of the starter, during start position of the ignition switch. So, I tried that, but I didn't get any positive voltage. Here is an attached picture of the connector. So, what should I do next, what can cause this plug to not give B+ voltage?

 

starter relay?

 

Where is the starter relay? I couldn't find it anywhere.

 

Bad ignition switch, bad connections somewhere, malfunctioning inhibitor relay/inhibitor system (/clutch switch).

First, is your car an auto or a 5 speed?

 

It is auto, I tried switching to different gears, but that didn't help. I found the inhibitor relay next to the battery, but I'm having a hard time removing the relay. Any tips?

 

Are you just trying to pull it out, or have you seen the locking tab on the side?

Personally I'd just jump the large gray connector that leads up from the trans, that's the park/neutral position switch connector. With those two leads connected, assuming the inhibitor relay is good, that should rule out the inhibitor system.

 

So, do you mean to say to short both of those leads and try starting again in park or neutral?

 

After you jump the two pins in that connector, it won't matter what gear position your shift lever is in (though obviously you want it in park or neutral in case it does start up).

 

Alright, thanks pmohr for your help. I appreciate it. I will try it later tonight and let you know. how do you know so much information?

 

I have no life.

 

Alright, before I try this I just want to make sure I'm jumping the correct cable. Here is an image. It is a two pin connector right?

 

No, that looks to be the VSS. It will be an overly large 2 pin gray connector. Follow the front wiring hasrness out of the front of the trans up to right on top, where the MAF would normally be (in that area). It should be there, IIRC.

 

Ok so this connector hopefully

 

That looks to be it, yes.

 

Alright, so I jumped the park/neutral connector and it worked, it turned on. So, does that mean the inhibitor relay is good or bad? What should I do next? Again, thank you very much pmohr for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

The relay is fine. Your park/neutral position switch is most likely out of adjustment.

Does the orange indicator line up in the window properly when it's in each gear?

 

Hmm, this is wierd. I took out the shorted wire and put the park/neutral connector back into its original location and i tried to crank it again and it worked. Wierd, I did, however, take out the inhibit/clutch interlock relay and cleaned it up a little bit.

 

Probably just a dirty/loose connection. Sometimes dis/reconnecting something a few times is enough to wear off any corrosion that's developed.

 

Hmm, another wierd problem, so I put everything back. I started it, it cranked up just fine. Then I tried, hmm lets move it to neutral and start. Well it shouldn't because I put the connector and the relay back where its suppose to, however it still starts on neutral. I would like to get it fixed, but can I still drive it in this condition?

 

Do what? It's supposed to start in neutral

 

Oh ok, i thought it is only suppose to start in park and not in any other gear. Thanks for your help.

 

My lord!, I did not try this.

So even if I directly try to jump the starter to turn the engine. It is not allowing it.

 

Tell us what you are experiencing.

Are you saying that the starter will not turn the engine while the transmission us in neutral or park?

Are tge headlights bright or dim.

Your comment needs to be more specific

 

What Did you Figure Out with the Car. ? Look Down where the shifter cable is attached to the PNRD switch on the front of the transmission. Typically the bushing Rots and falls away there on the cables end. Check that to make sure the cable eyelet is in fact tight against the part it pulls on to Make sure the Car is in park. Listen for the Click.

Thanks I will check up on that.
But when I did my electrical testing the relay/ignition wire (with Light Probe) was able to light when I turn the key to start. Which means that the shifter/transmission is sending ok signal to start.? CAN YOU GUIDE ME HERE ( IS THIS CORRECT)
But what is driving me MAD, as you know there is a 12 volts DIRECT feed from the battery to the starter solenoid., and the ignition wire that send 12 volts when the key is turn ( correct).
So as a BYPASS ( I send 12 volts from the positive battery to the grey plug on the solenoid . ONLY CLICK. NOTE THE ENGINE IS NOT SIEZE, TURNING PULLEY SHOWNS FLYWHEEL TURNING.

 

Could just be the starter itself is bad?

 

Ever watch the movie "Armageddon"? When the Space Shuttle Pilot is trying to figure out why the engines won't fire to get them off that asteroid?

Then the Russian guy throws her out of the way and starts beating the unit..... Then it fired!

Take your frustrations out on your started with a hammer and scream with a Russian Accent!

Hey... Ya never know!

Not sure why you ignored JvG? That's a mistake!

 

-Ignition switch (is passing current to from relay to ignition wire
-poor (or no) grounding maybe? Check ground from engine block GOOD
-Wiring from battery to starter. 12 volts

 

I had them tested at Autozone. and they PASSED both the OEM original and new (replace 1 once. was ok, but but just the amazon, Amazon sell those starter cheap?
Could it be just that they are cheap? then why are they both testing PASSED.. I lost quite a few hairs on the roof already!

 

Sorry Sir, I reply back I notice it did not get posted.

Tell us what you are experiencing.

Are you saying that the starter will not turn the engine while the transmission us in neutral or park? CORRECT

Are the headlights bright or dim. BRIGHT, cause I have a new battery full power.

Your comment needs to be more specific.
I need to have the starter crank the engine. I bypass the ignition grey wire that works with the relay and ignition switch. Jump the starter solenoid by putting 12 volts from the positive battery. Test both starter at auto zone and they PASS. The replacement starter I got from AMAZON.DBI ELECTRICAL. 65 Dollars.

Once that is working I can reconnect the ignition wire and go forward.
Is the ECM stopping the engine from turning. even if I am am bypassing with a 12 volts from battery?

 

But then why its passing the TEST at autozone? I one I purcahsed was from AMAZON, DB electrical. 65$

 

thanks for the FYI, I did response, didn't get posted.

btw, that was a movie fiction. Too much vodka! Today world its LOGIC .

 

Today's world is farther from logic than ever. More like ill informed opinions rule.

SERIOUSLY..... Have someone crank the key while you tap the starter with a hammer. The starter and solenoid are all one unit. Maybe when mounted in position, something different happens than when tested on a bench. Rule this out before moving any further forward.

 

I've actually installed a new starter from either advance auto or autozone that worked the first day but stopped working after that. I brought it back and they tested it on their bench as good. I still requested they give me a replacement (was a gold line unit so probably autozone?) and that one worked out.

In short, the bench test probably doesn't address all potential issues with a starter.

Just my $0.02..

 

Many many starting issues are due to problems with the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
Those are a known issue our cars have.

Replacement is not difficult. The part costs about 30 dollars.

 

"Today's world is farther from logic than ever. More like ill informed opinions rule." Agreed. That's what happen when you take GOD out of the it. You're lost!. (Remember the story of Noah and his Son)
Thank you, with all honestly, that was the first thing I tried.