I replaced my radiator and thermostat today and had a hell of a time getting the thermostat bolt out from behind the tensioner bolt. I finally got it off, but in the process of putting the new thermostat in I snapped off the bolt closest to the front of the car. I did not use silicone sealant, just the actual gasket that came with the part, and I hoped that the two bolts and the gasket would suffice - lo and behold it is leaking coolant like a mother even with the car off. I'm going to take it back off tomorrow and use RTV sealant like I should have, but was wondering if anyone knows off hand if there is a way to replace the bolt so I can rest completely easily. I just moved and can't find my Haynes or my factory PDF, thanks in advance if you've solved this same problem.

 

Buy a screw/bolt remover bit and try that. Sears has them. You drill a hole and then put the special bit in it to remove the broken bolt. Then replace with new bolts(you might have to re tap if the threads are cross threaded)

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...criptionAnchor


That should do it

 

Well the part that gets me is that the bolt actually comes out at you from inside the wall of the block or something, so that the head end is internal and you just have the nut end of it sticking out. So you'd have to get behind it to pull it out and then stick in the new. The FSM doesn't show an exploded view of that particular complex, so it's hard to tell what's going on in that area, and near impossible to tell looking at the car since that area is so hidden. I guess I'll just try the RTV and try to get the other 2 bolts down as tight as I can, and hope I don't come out of work to find a big green puddle.

 

What you have is a broken stud, not a bolt screwed in from the other side. A screw remover is the tool, I just hope you can get to it.

 

I just replaced the thermostat housing myself a few days ago. Those studs are a bit of a pain to get to; you need to remove the horn and lower the belt tensioner adjustment bolt, move the hose out of the way, definitely remove the overflow tank. You need to look at the top surface of the broken stud, and see if you can use a small screwdriver and some cursing to remove it from the engine block. When I was doing mine, the whole stud came out of the engine block, and I just screwed it back in.... I cleaned the surface where the thermostat assy meets the engine block with a brillo pad to remove the remnants of the old seal, didn't use rtv; it is holding. You have me worried, maybe I should have...

 

^^ If it's not already leaking it's probably fine, mine was a small stream just from gravity as soon as the coolant level got up above the thermostat.

Thanks guys, didn't realize it was just a stud.

 

How do you 'lower the belt tensioner adjustment bolt" ? Is there an adjustment afterwards when you put it back in place? does this change the tension on the belt?

 

There are conflicting views on what to remove/adjust in order to get a thermostat out of a 4th generation maxima. Must I 'lower the belt tensioner adjustment bolt" ? If so, Is there an adjustment afterwards when you put it back in place? does this change the tension on the belt?

Or should I just

1. Move the horn
2. Remove the coolant recovery bottle
3. Remove the windshield washer fluid filler neck (it pops out)

Thanks

 

I wd say read the Haynes and the FSM. SOmetimes together the can add more insight than jus reading only one.

How did u guys know yur thermostat was busted. My car doesnt overheat...but at highway speeds the engine temp is lower than normal. Ususally the needle is in the middle of the Hot and cold marks...but at highway speeds the needle sits a little below the halway mark, on the cold side.

Ideas?

 

do you get coming from the dash whenever you have it set to hot?
if yes, don't worry too much, if no then swap the t-stat.
eventually mine will be done, just waiting on people to get in here and help (ok, do it for me :P)